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RAMBLES 



THROUGH EUEOPE, THE HOLY 



LAKD AND EGYPT. 



BY 



REV. A. ZURBONSBN. 



ST. LOUIS, MO. 1903. 
Published by B. HERDER. 

17 South Broadway. 



r^.n 



THt LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 


Two Copies 


ReceiveO | 


JUN 10 


1903 


l"*, Copyfight 


Entry 


XXo. No. 


4 /3 


1 ^ 


COPY 


B, 



Copyright 1903, by Jos. Gummersbacli. 



— BECKTOLD— 

PRINTING AND BOOK MFG. CO. 
ST. LOUIS, ftlO. 




To His Feiends and Fellow-Membeks 

OF THE 

"W. C. U." 

WITH WHOM THE AUTHOR SPENT MANY 

PLEASANT HOIJES OF 

FEATEENAL INTEECOUESE 

AT ANNUAL CONVENTIONS 

THE FOLLOWING PAGES 

AEE INSCEIBED. 



CONTENTS: 



Page. 
1 



Germany 

Austria and Hungary ... 30 
The Balkan States . . • .46 

Turkey ^^ 

Constantinople 67 

From Constantinople to Jaffa . . 95 

Jaffa 110 

From Jaffa co Jerusalem . . . 117 

Jerusalem 123 

A Visit to Bethlehem . . .169 
Jericho, Dead Sea and Jordan . . 177 
From Palestine to Egypt . . 198 
Cairo and the Pyramids . . .206 
Alexandria to Italy . , » . 226 



GERMANY. 

Nations as well as individuals have their 
characteristics and peculiar traits which 
serve to differentiate them from the rest of 
the world, and these characteristics affect 
the very atmosphere and appearance of a 
land. The traveller in G-ermany is at once 
impressed with an all-pervading sense of 
law and order, of stability and permanence. 
The people live frugally and economically, 
extravagance and needless waste being un- 
known, while the pleasant mutual inter- 
course of their social life and their sober 
habits immediately strike the observant 
visitor in their midst. Their manners are 
courteous, civil, considerate and frank. 

Among the institutions of the country 
the most conspicuous, if not the most im- 
portant, is easily the army, and well may 
the nation be proud of its magnificent fight- 
ing force of more than half a million well- 
equipped and well-drilled troops. The 
Grerman soldier, whether on or off duty, is 

(1) 



2 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

ever the model soldier, as the scrupulous 
cleanliness of his uniform and accoutrements, 
and his perfect military bearing plainly 
demonstrate. The heroic deeds of the army 
in 1870 are fresh in the memory of the 
present generation, who do not forget that 
it reunited Germany, regained her lost pos- 
sessions, established a new empire and, more 
than all, impressed upon the world the im- 
portance of armed neutrality in maintaining 
peace. By means of her large standing 
army Grermany has held the balance between 
peace and war, and she will continue to do 
so for an indefinite period to come. 

During this time of peace, the interior re- 
sources of the country have reached a high 
plane of development. Hardly a square 
foot of arable land now awaits the pressure 
of the plow. During the spring and summer, 
when we made our tour through the country, 
it might have been compared to a great 
and beautiful garden. Orchards, fields and 
meadows were replete with the promise of a 
bountiful harvest, which, to the satisfaction 
of the unwearied toilers, was fully realized. 
Rarely have I seen such abundant crops as 
were gathered this summer in Grermany. 



GEEMANY. 6 

Hitherto untillable soil, such as marshes, 
turf and heather lands, is being converted 
into pastures, meadows and yielding acres ; 
so that the poor and small farmer of years 
gone by to-day enjoys comparative wealth 
and ease as the reward of his thrift. The 
agricultural districts may be visited without 
difficulty or inconvenience, for no country 
in the world has better highways or pubhc 
roads than the ''Chausseen" in Grermany. 
These form a net-work of macadamized 
roads, fringed and ornamented on both 
sides by shade or choice fruit trees, which 
link even the smallest towns and hamlets 
throughout the Empire. With such facilities 
it is not surprising that we met with many 
pedestrians, who, instead of employing the 
railways or other means of conveyance, 
journeyed long distances on foot. Out-of- 
door exercise, long walks and mountain 
climbing together with a frugal but solid 
diet greatly contribute to the health of the 
average German. 

The subject of diet naturally brings to 
mind the German national beverage, beer, 
about which so much has been said and 
written. Whatever be its merits or demerits 



4 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

this much, is certain, that, its manufacture 
being controlled and superintended by the 
state, no injurious or poisonous ingredients 
are permitted to enter into its composition, 
no chemicals of any kind are substituted 
for hops and malt. Moreover, I take de- 
light in stating that during the whole time 
of our stay in Grermany rarely did we en- 
counter a drunken man, and never did we 
hear indecent or profane language. All 
popular demonstrations, such as the public 
fairs and '^Schuetzenfeste" were conducted 
with strict decorum and sobriety. 

Manufactures are flourishing and con- 
tribute greatly to the present prosperity of 
the Fatherland, which now ranks third as 
a manufacturing country. Exports increase 
every year, and the trade-mark ' ' Made in 
Germany" is met with in all markets of 
the civilized world. In machinery and foot- 
wear, however, particularly in the first, our 
own American products are superior to those 
of any other country. No matter in what 
rural district in Grermany you may be, you 
will find American plows, cultivators, har- 
vesters and binders. The German sewing 
machines are inferior to our ''Singer," 



GERMANY. 



''White" or "Home," American bicycles 
and auto-mobiles are in great demand, Mary- 
land, Virginia and Kentucky tobaccos are 
valuable import articles, and American 
furniture is also sold abroad, but chiefly 
in England, where it is much sought after. 
The present embargo placed by Germany 
on American meats is much to be regretted. 
It presses most heavily upon the poorer 
working classes. Owing to the exorbitant 
price of meat, it is a luxury on the work- 
ingman's table. Clothing is good and cheap, 
a fine tailor-made suit of the best serge or 
worsted goods costing but from ten to fifteen 

dollars. 

In speaking of G-ermany's products one 
must not omit the greatest of them all, the 
huge ocean steamers. England may still 
justly claim the title of ''Mistress of the 
Seas," but in point of size and speed, her 
merchant vessels are now eclipsed by the 
recently built leviathans of the German 
lines. The "Deutschland," " Kaiser Wil- 
helm der Grosse," "Kronprinz," "Kaiser 
Wilhelm der II," etc., are all equipped with 
the latest inventions for insuring safety, 
comfort, ease and enjoyment, and have at- 



6 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

tained unequaled success and speed. Fully 
three-fourths of all the travellers and tourists 
crossing the Atlantic take passage on these 
veritable ocean grey hounds, which on every 
trip bring from two to three thousand pas- 
sengers to American shores, covering the 
distance in a little more than seven days. 
To those who have never seen these monster 
vessels, the following figures may be of in- 
terest, and will convey some idea of their 
colossal proportions. The ''Kronprinz," 
which accomplished her maiden trip to New 
York a few months ago, is 663 feet long, 66 
feet wide, 43 feet deep, and has a capacity 
of 15,000 tons. Her 214 rooms for first 
class passengers contain 406 beds and 198 
couches. The second class accommodations 
include 102 rooms with 312 beds and 37 
couches. 750 people can be carried third 
class, or steerage. The crew from the captain 
to the cabin boy numbers 522 persons. 
1900 electric lights illumine the ship and her 
bunkers carry 4550 tons of coal. 

The coal deposits of G-ermany, which are 
apparently inexhaustible, lie chiefly in what 
is called the ^^Euhr Grebiet," hence it is 
Ijere we find the great industrial centers of 



GEEMANY. / 

the country. Pittsburgh compared to Essen 
and its vicinity is but a child. 

AH railway, postal, express and telegraph 
service in the Empire is under state owner- 
ship and operation, and a uniformity of 
minimum charges extends throughout the 
land. Railway travel is far cheaper than in 
the United States because of its classifica- 
tion. People of limited means and saving 
habits may without the least impropriety go 
third class, in which case their coaches lack 
upholstered seats, but have instead wooden 
benches. The speed of European ''D" trains 
(limited express) is equal to ours making 
thirty-five or forty miles an hour. ■ The ease 
and comfort to which we are accustomed are 
woefully lacking. There is no newsboy, or ice- 
water, and the coaches are small — scarcely 
half the length of ours — divided into several 
coupes, each seating eight persons who face 
one another. As soon as the coupes are filled 
and before the train leaves the station the 
conductor, there called '^Schaffner," locks 
the doors, and the passengers are caged and 
cooped in until the next station is reached. 
This procedure naturally engenders a certain 
feeling of insecurity and uneasiness in view 



8 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

of possible accidents. The utmost precau- 
tion is taken, however, and at the passing 
of every train the respective section foreman 
is required to signal by means of a small 
flag to engineer and train-master that the 
division has been duly inspected, and every- 
thing is as it should be. The block system 
is generally in vogue. All the stations, most 
of which have good restaurants annexed, 
are handsome and convenient and are de- 
cidedly superior to our oftentimes primitive 
and miserable looking shanties. 

The same regard for the public welfare 
which obtains in the management of the 
railroads is also to be observed in the laws 
governing the everyday life of the people. 
For instance, no child is allowed to remain 
away from school without a written and valid 
excuse from the parents; it is forbidden 
under penalty of a heavy fine to smoke or 
to light a match in stables or hay lofts ; all 
vehicles moving on the public highway after 
dark must show a light; in dry seasons, 
when there is not sufficient food and water 
in the fields and pastures, the owners of 
cattle must stable them or suffer the penalty 
of the law, etc., etc. Who would not cheer- 



GEEMANY. 9 

fully subscribe to such wise enactments'? 
Prudent and paternal measures are also 
adopted for the aid of the indigent, the 
sick, the helpless and the aged. There are 
not only institutions for their accomoda- 
tion, but they are given state assistance in 
the shape of monthly disbursements of 
small sums of money. Servants and em- 
ployees whose record for honesty and faith- 
fulness is untarnished are entitled, when 
they reach a certain age, to a liberal pension. 
One may meet with cases .of impecuniosity 
but never with cases of starvation, for all 
classes of the people, no matter what their 
calling may be, are more or less looked after 
by the state. The taxes, in consequence, 
are rather burden-some, especially for the 
middle classes. 

There is in almost every city, town and 
village a society whose object it is to beautify 
and ornament the public roads, streets, parks 
or unused squares. The associates plant 
trees and shrubs, lay out lawns and flower 
beds, and erect fountains and resting places. 
Under their able management many a for- 
lorn and unsightly spot has been magically 
transformed. If the public-spirited men in 



10 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

our own smaller communities would only 
adopt similar measures, we could in the 
course of a few years greatly beautify our 
towns and villages. The necessary effort 
would not be great, and the results would 
more than repay the out-lay. Another at- 
tractive feature in Grerman cities is the num- 
ber of window gardens bright with flower- 
ing plants and vines. 

One of the fashions of the day which first 
attracts the notice of the traveller in G^er- 
many is the mania for collecting illustrated 
postal-cards which are used more there than 
in any country in the world. German social 
usage, unlike that in America, does not 
frown upon the use of such cards in polite 
correspondence. Moreover the government 
has encouraged their use by admitting to 
the mails any card of reasonable size. Thus 
it is permitted to take any ordinary card, 
write ^ ' Deutsche Reichspost " on it, stamp 
it, and mail it, and this privilege has been 
used so extensively by publisher and public 
that the annual increase in receipts of the 
Grerman mail is enormous. The first illus- 
trated postals bore lithographed designs 
which were generally inartistic and common- 



GEEMANY. 11 

place, but these were soon superseded by 
the advent of half-tones and photogravures, 
and to-day innumerable beautiful views, in 
many respects more satisfactory as souvenirs 
and very much cheaper than photographs, 
are everywhere to be had. They are sold 
chiefly by the book sellers and newsdealers, 
but may be seen in the windows of almost 
all the shops, while the dry-goods houses 
and groceries use them for advertisements. 
A lively trade in these cards is also carried 
on by street-venders, whose monotonous cry 
of ' ^ Ansichts-Karten ' ' is less agreeable to 
strangers than it appears to be to the native. 
The vender has a wire frame in which he 
displays his wares. These consist of views 
of the streets and principal buildings in the 
cities, of mountain, river and lake scenery 
in Grermany and Switzerland, and of scenes, 
not altogether fanciful of students' duels 
and bouts, dances among the peasantry, 
and '' Schlachtfeste," or roast pig carnivals. 
Were the customer choosing diamonds he 
could not go about it more critically or with 
greater enthusiasm than he exhibits in the 
selection of these postal-cards for which the 
dealer is also prepared to furnish the ''Brief- 



12 'EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

marken" or stamps. Illustrated postal-cards 
were introduced in Germany some ten years 
ago, and their popularity has been very great 
for the last five years. At present it is uni- 
versal, and G-ermans spend for postal-cards 
what Americans spend for magazines. Kot 
only does the traveller to distant points mail 
them to his family and friends, but they are 
dispatched from beer gardens, restaurants 
and concert halls in the same city, or from 
a neighboring town where the writer happens 
to be passing the evening. In the latter case 
every member of the party adds some words 
or at least signs his name to the missive 
whether he know the person to whom it is 
addressed or not. The cards cost from one 
to ten cents according to their quality which 
ranges from the chromo-lithograph to a well 
executed etching. 

Doubtless sentiment has as much to do as 
anything with this wide-spread use of postal- 
cards on the part of the Germans, but the 
fact that the German public is not a news- 
paper reading public is another cause which 
is at once apparent. There are far fewer 
newspapers in Germany than in America, 
and, moreover, the German newspaper is. 



GERMANY. 



13 



as a rale, small, poorly printed and without 
enterprise, being sold chiefly to regular sub- 
scribers. Many people never buy a news- 
paper, and read those only which are kept 
by the proprietors of the gardens and cafes 
for the accommodation of their customers. In 
many G-erman cities of from fifty to a hund- 
red thousand inhabitants single copies of the 
newspapers cannot be bought except at the 
publishers office or at the newstand at the 
railway station. In cities like Berhn, Ham- 
burg, Leipsic, Frankfort or Munich other 
conditions prevail and street car passengers 
are often seen reading their favorite journal 
which they have purchased from a corner 
stand. But though the people as a whole, 
and women and children in particular, do 
not read the news-papers to any extent, and 
though the heads of fifty families may use 
the one or two papers of a single beer 
garden, and read yesterday's issue with as 
much satisfaction as today's, yet it must 
not be supposed that Grermany, which gives 
to the world a larger number of scientific 
journals than any other country, has not im- 
portant newspapers containing adequate ac- 
counts of the relations between the national 



14 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

and local governments and able articles 
bearing on the various political movements 
and the other daily topics of moment. Berlin 
alone can boast of some seven hundred 
journals, forty-five of which are daily pub- 
lications. Many of these are displayed on 
the wire rack of the vender together with 
a far greater number of papers from other 
centers than would ever be seen in the arms 
of an American newsboy. The leading news- 
papers of such cities as Cologne, Hamburg, 
Munich, Frankfort, Leipsic and Vienna are 
there as are the French journals, the London 
dailies, the Paris edition of the New York 
Herald and often copies of the New York 
Tribune, Times or Nation. A good deal 
of news is conveyed to the public free of 
charge by means of what are called "Plakat- 
saeulen,'' or placard pillars. These are 
several feet in circumference and about fif- 
teen feet high, and bear on their ever- 
changing surfaces railway time-tables, no- 
tices of special excursion trains, programmes 
of theatre and opera and advertisements of 
games and festivals. There are many of 
these pillars in all German cities, and while 
dispensing much information to the public, 



GEEMANY. 15 

they do not disfigure the streets as do our 
American bill-boards. 

Objects of prime interest and importance 
in every Grerman city are the markets, which, 
though sometimes well housed, are gener- 
ally held in open market-places, long the 
heritage of the people. To these markets, 
with their wares spread out upon the coble- 
stones and bricks, go the hotel and res- 
taurant proprietors, the lady and the maid. 
Every Grerman housewife prides herself on 
the appetizing and nourishing dishes she 
can place before her household by means 
of judicious marketing and careful cook- 
ing. Her success depends first and fore- 
most, however, upon early visits to the 
market, a wise selection of the best that 
the stalls contain, and a clever bargain 
with the dealers, who want the best price 
they can get, but can usually be induced 
to sell for just what the article is worth. 
The result of all this care and personal 
supervision is that the table of almost any 
restaurant, '^Wirthshaus" or pension offers 
an assortment of fresh vegetables and good 
meat not often surpassed in private homes 
in America, and so much better than our 



16 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

average boarding house as to put it com- 
pletely to shame. Grermany, however, has 
not the profusion of fruit that we have, 
and attractive fruit is either conspicuous by 
its absence or to be bought only at very 
high prices. One disagreeable custom which 
prevails in foreign hotels and pensions and, 
indeed, confronts the traveller in Europe at 
almost every turn, is the tipping system. 
There is an amusing story in one of the 
recent magazines, called '^The man who 
gave no Tip," which aptly illustrates this 
bugbear. In truth, nothing is more annoy- 
ing than this miserable form of robbery 
which is especially practised in the hotels. 
When the moment of your departure arrives, 
and you take up your satchel and start for 
the train, the whole swarm of servants, the 
porter, the valet, the waiter, the chamber- 
maid, the bell-boy, the boot-black and the 
coach-man all fall in line, each determined, 
to the best of his ability, to fleece the poor 
victim who has to run the gauntlet. Ex- 
periences of this kind are conducive to any- 
thing but enjoyment, yet they must be sub- 
mitted to, all protests to the contrary 
notwithstanding. Unfortunately the custom 
is rapidly growing in our own country. 



GEEMANY. 17 

Every variety of landscape is to be found 
within the limits of the Empire. The Black 
Forest and the Harz are incomparable in 
grandeur. In the former I spent the Grlorious 
Fourth together with some friends from St. 
Louis, Mo. Sitting under the shade of ma- 
jestic forest trees near a thundering, foam- 
ing mountain torrent, with a starry flag 
fastened above us, we all joined in singing 
' ' Hail Columbia. ' ' Then there is the famous 
"Father Rhine" who passes sparkling to 
the sea between banks rich in historical in- 
terest as well as in natural beauty. Hoary 
castles, impregnable fortresses, opulent cities 
and fair vineyards are reflected in the clear 
waters. The trip from Mayence to Coblentz, 
which my travelling companion and I in- 
cluded in our itinerary, permitted us to view 
many a place immortalized in song and 
story. I have only to mention Bingen, 
Ruedesheim, the Lorelei Cliff, the Mause- 
thurm, the Niederwald-Denkmal to arouse 
the enthusiasm of my readers. These places 
are the favorite haunts of the army of 
tourists which invades Europe every sum- 
mer. The yearly influx of Americans, both 
naturalized and native-born, into Glermany 



18 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

is sometliing enormous, and during the sea- 
son it is almost impossible to secure passage 
on any steamer except by reserving it for 
weeks before hand. A statistician for one 
of our great dailies has estimated that six 
millions of American money are annually 
expended in Europe by travellers and 
tourists. 

Bonn, another landmark on the banks of 
the Rhine gives the stranger opportunity of 
learning something of that famous type, the 
German student. Laying aside all prejudice 
and national pride, few will deny that Gler- 
many is the center of science at the present 
day. Her many well equipped universities, 
colleges, academies and gymnasia have made 
her so. Students from other countries in 
large numbers attend the Glerman schools. 
Among our fellow passengers crossing the 
ocean were several young American physi- 
cians all bound for Grermany, there to com- 
plete their studies by taking a post-graduate 
course under some eminent scientist or spe- 
cialist. The attention of an American in a 
Grerman university town is first attracted by 
the squads of fine looking, rosy com- 
plexioned, scar- cheeked students strolling 



GERMANY. 19 

about the streets. They are dressed in the 
best Grerman style, carrying canes and wear- 
ing caps of vivid colors — white, blue, green, 
yellow, red and purple — and, oftentimes, 
having ribbons of three colors which pass 
from shoulder to hip. These young men 
are the corps students, or members of the 
university societies. The corps resemble 
somewhat the Grreek letter societies of Amer- 
ican universities, but differ from them es- 
sentially. They originated in the old national 
associations called ' ' Landsmannschaften " 
named from old German provinces or tribes. 
The corps with yellow caps is the Suebian, 
whose colors are black, yellow and blue. 
The Rhine corps wear the dark blue cap, 
the Westphalians greeu, and the Saxons, 
black. Each corps forms an association 
which extends to every university in Ger- 
many. The members are, without excep- 
tion, wealthy and aristocratic young men 
who hold themselves aloof from the other 
students . They consider themselves the elite 
of the university, and assume the right to 
represent it on all occasions, arranging for 
all the '^Feste" days, the funerals of the 
students, and every demonstration in honor 



20 *EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

of the professors, whether it be a big torch- 
light procession or a still bigger drinking 
bout or '^Kneipe." There are in the uni- 
versity other societies like the ''Burschen- 
schaft/' which was originally formed to 
rival the corps. At first it was not intended 
to be exclusive, but later on it became a 
select society and is now as restricted as the 
corps. 

When Grerman students enter the univer- 
sity, at the age of eighteen or twenty, they 
begin a life of freedom and enjoyment en- 
tirely new to them. They leave their homes 
and the gymnasia where for nine years they 
have been undergoing the most rigid prep- 
aration for their higher education, and 
where they are hedged in by severe discipline 
and a firm set of rules. They have scarcely 
been out of sight of their parents or teachers, 
and the hard grinding work of the gymna- 
sium has kept them so busy that they have 
not had much time for amusement. The 
laws of the gymnasia forbid them to go to a 
beer garden or hall unaccompanied by their 
parents or some older person. After this 
severe early training, they go to a university 
city, choose their own rooms, course of 



GERMANY. 21 

study and professors, and set about their 
work, or, if it pleases them, and it usually 
does, they do no work at all. The reaction 
from their former rigid routine sets in, and 
they enter upon a life of freedom, pleasure, 
idleness and, sometimes, debauchery that is 
absolutely unknown to students in an Amer- 
ican university and horrifying in the ex- 
treme to an American woman. To many 
of these corps students unrestrained indul- 
gence means the thorough enjoyment of 
youth, life and friendship. Their aim is to 
attain proficiency in drinking and fighting. 
With these ideas it is natural that they 
should seek to cover themselves with scars 
and glory by fighting duels. To fight is a 
condition of membership in a corps, and in 
all friendhness and good feeling they are 
sworn to draw, periodically, one another's 
blood. The causes of these duels are ex- 
tremely insignificant. Sometimes a trivial 
remark, like '^ dummer Junge " — stupid fel- 
low — or a careless tripping on another's foot, 
or perhaps merely a fierce glare of the eye is 
sufficient to call forth a challenge to arms. 
Ordinarily these duels are perfectly harmless 
except when the cause is a real insult ; this 



22 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

is expiated by a saber duel that sometimes 
ends in death. With no ill will between the 
contestants, there is sufficient cause for fight 
in the fact that they belong to rival corps. 
The thirst for blood seems at times to be 
epidemic. Members of the same corps never 
fight together, but every month or so certain 
members from different corps are matched 
against one another, and whichever organi- 
zation scores the greatest number of points, 
or, perhaps, scars, wins the most glory. 
And so the mutual cheek-gashing goes on as 
it has for years past and is likely to for 
years to come; for the Glerman student, un- 
like our under-graduate, finds no vent for 
his surplus energy in foot-ball and base-ball. 
Duelling is forbidden in every German 
university, and in North Grermany the pun- 
ishment is very severe, but the good-natured 
South Grermans allow great laxity in the en- 
forcement of the law regarding the ordinary 
"Mensur," which is always fought outside 
of the city. The result of this leniency is 
that there is a great influx of students from 
the North German universities to Heidelberg 
and Freiburg. If by chance the students 
are caught in the very act of fighting, they 



GERMANY. 23 

sometimes have to suffer the penalty; but 
when the day after a duel they appear in the 
streets and at lecture in skull caps with strips 
of court plaster adorning their foreheads or 
cheeks from ear to nose, or perhaps with the 
nose itself in a wad of cotton and black silk 
supports reaching over the ears, then the 
professor looks knowing, the students ex- 
change sly winks, and the towns people take 
it as a matter of course. 

The Emperor is a warm admirer of the 
corps system and the duelling. At a students' 
meeting at Bonn, in May, 1891, he said: 
'^I hope that as long as there are Glerman 
corps students, the spirit which is fostered 
in their corps, and which is steeled by 
strength and courage, will be preserved, and 
that you will always take delight in the 
rapier. There are many people who do not 
understand what our 'Mensuren' really 
mean, but that must not lead us astray. 
You and I who have been corps students 
know better than that. As in the middle 
ages manly strength and courage were steeled 
by the practice of jousting or tournaments, 
so the spirit and habits which are acquired 
by membership in a corps furnish us with 



24 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

the degree of fortitude which is necessary 
to us when we go out into the world, and 
which will last as long as there are German 
universities." 

I may here mention an odd custom, or, 
rather, fad which has become general in 
imitation of the Emperor's habit. It is a 
special manner of cultivating the mustache. 
Instead of combing it as heretofore sideways 
or downwards, it is now being brushed 
straight upwards. This style is called, "h 
FEmpereur," and evinces intense patriot- 
ism. 

The architectural monuments in the Grer- 
man cities are an inexhaustible source of in- 
terest and instruction, not only because of 
their venerable ages, for many of them date 
their construction from the middle ages or 
even earlier, but also because of the priceless 
art treasures and historical relics which they 
contain. The first city which we visited, 
however, after leaving our steamer, was 
not a Grerman city at all, but Antwerp in 
Belgium, whose noble cathedral harbors the 
paintings of Rubens (t 1640), Van Dyk 
(t 1660), and others. This church is five 
hundred feet long, two hundred and fifty 



GEEMANY. 25 

feet wide and has a spire four hundred and 
forty-four feet high. The pulpit and con- 
fessionals here and in St. Paul's are among 
the most wonderful specimens of wood carv- 
ing extant. At Bremen the chaste and much 
admired cathedral dates its origin from the 
time of Archbishop Adalbert in 1160. In 
the crypt is the historic ' ^ Bleikeller , " a 
vaulted room possessing the peculiar prop- 
erty of keeping bodies in a state of preserva- 
tion. Enter, and you behold the bodies of 
men and women in open caskets, which 
were laid there three and four hundred years 
ago, yet, though somewhat mummified or 
ossified', natural and life-like expressions still 
linger upon their pallid features. The Ratli- 
Haus, city hail, with its world renowned 
wine cellar, was built in 1405. Bremen, like 
Antwerp, is conspicuous for its transatlantic 
shipping, its parks and fine monuments. 

A city of no mean pretensions, one of the 
oldest in all Germany, conquered by Charle- 
magne in 772, is Miinster in Westphalia. 
Though they cling tanaciously to the tradi- 
tions and customs of their forefathers, the 
inhabitants are keeping pace with modern 
progress and development. This is evidenced 



26 EUKOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

by the fine boulevards, electric street rail- 
ways, zoological gardens, historical museum, 
university, new churches and other improve- 
ments. Miinster is replete with historical 
reminiscences. Here, after the Thirty Years 
War with Sweden, terms of peace were 
signed in 1648. Within her walls the ex- 
cesses of the Anabaptists took place in 1534. 
The iron cages that contained the bodies of 
Johann van Leyden, Knipperdoelling and 
Krechting, may be seen at the present day 
suspended from the Lamberti spire. The first 
Bishop of Miinster was St. Ludger of Fries- 
land, whose date is 802. The old cathedral 
church was built under Bishop Grerhard in 
1277. 

Musty documents tell us the history of 
many other Grerman cities which were 
founded at or near the time of the inroads 
of the Romans upon the territories of the 
Cimbri and Teutons. Among these are Co- 
logne, Treves, Aix-la-Chapelle, Mayence and 
others. 

In Cologne, the matchless queen on the 
banks of the Rhine, we made our first stop 
on our journey to the Orient. This city had 
its origin in a camp which was pitched upon 



GEEMANY. 27 

its site by the Romans in the time of Marcus 
Agrippa. Agrippina, daughter of Grerman- 
icus and mother of Nero, induced her hus- 
band, Claudius, to found a colony there in 
51 A. D. The town then received the name 
of Colonia Agrippina, which it retained for 
•many centuries. Today it is a populous 
beautiful and wealthy city. The cathedral of 
Cologne, begun about the middle of the 
thirteenth century, is by far the most superb 
and imposing Grothic structure in the world. 
The original architect is unknown. After 
many intermissions in the course of its build- 
ing, it was completed only some twenty 
years ago. The largest of the bells weighs 
twenty-seven thousand pounds, and was cast 
from cannon captured in the Franco-Prus- 
sian war. The length of the edifice is five 
hundred and eleven feet, its breadth two 
hundred and thirty-one feet, and the towers 
are five hundred and eleven feet high. This 
majestic and colossal structure is the pride 
of G-ermany, and justly so. Every traveller 
in Europe goes to see it. Cologne exerts a 
magnetic influence upon the visitor which 
makes him, time and circumstances permitt- 
ing, prolong his stay within her hospitable 
walls. 



28 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

Having had our passports endorsed by 
the local Turkish consul, we sped onwards 
towards our distant gaol, passing Mayence, 
Aschaffenburg and Wiirzburg and pausing 
at Niirenberg in Bavaria, a city of mediaeval 
type and character, the native place of the 
great Albrecht Diirer (1528), and Hans 
Sachs (1576). Here our first objective point 
was the old castle. We visited the gruesome 
chamber of horrors with its instruments of 
torture. We saw thumb, ankle and leg 
screws, the rack, wheel, chair and stove, 
masks, swords and thongs, all in use in the 
time of Gustavus Adolphus. In the court- 
yard stands an old Linden tree planted by 
Empress Kuuigunde in 1120. Near by is a 
deep well which it took convicts thirty years 
to drill, and from which secret subterraneous 
passages lead to dungeons and prison holes 
where conspirators and political prisoners 
were immured. The public market place 
with its famous fountain well repays a visit 
as do the church of San Lorenzo and the 
Frauenkirche. The traveller should not 
fail to take luncheon at the Bratwurst-Glock- 
lein, probably one of the oldest inns in all 
Grermany. It is a smoke-begrimed, dingy 



GERMANY. 29 

little place, consisting of a small kitchen and 
room. Every piece of furniture, however, 
utensils, floor, ceiling and windows, bear 
witness to its extreme age. Here gathered 
the notables of the town before Diirer and 
Sachs were born, and these in their turn be- 
came patrons of the Grlocklein. Their large 
tin mugs are kept today on the same shelves 
where their owners used to place them five 
hundred years ago. 

But we had to curtail our stay in Niiren- 
berg. We left the interesting city rather 
reluctantly, and hastening onward arrived, 
by way of Passau where we crossed the 
Austrian boundary and custom house, at 
the town of Linz, situated on the banks of 
the Danube. 



AUSTRIA AND HUNGARY. 

Crossing the Bavarian boundary line at 
Passau, we entered the domain of Emperor 
Francis Joseph. The Austro-Hungarian 
monarchy is the empire of Southern Central 
Europe. It consists of two main divisions , 
Austria proper and Hungary, each of which 
has its separate legislature and administra- 
tion, though they are united under one mon- 
arch and have a single ministry for matters 
of common interest. It is only since the 
accession of the present ruler that the two 
countries have been actually consolidated. 
The fundamental law which divides the 
monarchy into two states bears the date of 
December 21, 1867. The crown is hereditary 
in the house of Hapsburg as that of Ger- 
many is in the Hohenzollern house. The 
present beloved and venerable chief, Fran- 
cis Joseph was born August 18, 1830, and 
succeeded to the throne on December 2, 1848. 
His consort, the Empress Elizabeth, fell a 
victim of the assassin's dagger, a few years 

ago. 

(30) 



AUSTEIA AND HUNGAKY. Bl 

The total area of the empire is 240,381 
square miles, about five-sevenths of which 
are mountainous. The Alps cover almost 
the entire southern belt of the Grerman prov- 
inces, their highest peaks being the Ortler 
(18,852 feet) and the Gross-aiockner (12, 
776 feet). Then there are the Carpathian 
mountains, whose chain extends for about 
eight hundred miles. These bold and rug- 
ged granite cliffs arise to a height of more 
than eight thousand feet above the level of 
the sea. The Sudetic mountains with the 
Bohemian forest and the Ore mountain form 
an almost uninterrupted range of granite 
and gneiss formation. Of the streams the 
Danube is by far the most important. It 
is in fact the main artery of the Austrian 
Empire, and may at no distant period be- 
come for Southern Europe what the Mis- 
sissippi is for our Southern states. It flows 
from east to west. Steamboats were first 
introduced on the Danube in 1830. 

The German language is chiefly used in 
Austria. In Hungary the Magyar or Slavic 
tongue, divided into some twenty different 
dialects or idioms, obtains. The capital 
cities of this dual monarchy are Vienna in 



32 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

Austria and Buda-Pesth in Hungary, both 
situated on tlie banks of the Danube. 

Arrived at Linz, we registered at the 
hotel '^Zur goldenenKanone," satisfied the 
cravings of the inner man, and then took 
a walk through the principal streets and 
parks of this important Austrian city. We 
saw, in course of construction, the great 
cathedral church which was designed by the 
late incumbent of the diocesan see, Msgr. 
Eudigier, and the cost of which is being 
defrayed by contributions from the entire 
country. Msgr. Eudigier was a man to 
whose intrepidity and fearlessness in the 
cause of peace and justice Austria owes 
much. His remains rest in the crypt of 
the church beneath the sanctuary. Sur- 
mounting the marble sarcophagus is a life 
size figure in bronze of the great bishop. 

Some seventy-five miles west of Linz, 
snugly nestling among the hills and forests 
is the cloistered retreat of Schlagel Abbey. 
Hither we went, desiring to see an invalid 
friend, Msgr. A. Zeininger formerly pro- 
fessor at Milwaukee. We were warmly re- 
ceived and most hospitably entertained 
during several restful, pleasant days. It 



AUSTEIA AND HUNGARY. 33 

was with reluctance that we departed, and 
our visit will ever be remembered with 
pleasure. 

In Austria as well as in Germany there 
are extensive forests of oak, beech, pine and 
hemlock. They are partly public domain 
and partly private property. In either case 
the laws regarding forest preservation are 
strict and general, and cover all forest lands 
whether in valleys or on the mountain slopes. 
For every tree felled either in the spring or 
autumn a healthy sapling must be planted 
the next season. These young trees are 
supplied and delivered to applicants, free 
of cost, by the government. On our trip 
through Grermany as well as here at Schla- 
gel, on the outskirts of the Bohemian Forest, 
we had object lessons in this wise and pru- 
dent policy. When will our government 
awake to its duty in this regard, put a stop 
to the wanton destruction of our fine timber, 
and inaugurate measures for the preserva- 
tion of our valuable forests? Savages live 
lavishly as long as their stock of food lasts, 
even though they know that afterwards they 
must starve. We say they can never climb 
out of the savage state until they learn to 



34 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

provide for the future. Yet in regard to 
our forests, which are without doubt the 
most indispensible products of the soil, we 
have acted very much as the Comanche 
Indian does with respect to his store of 
food. The value of the product of our forests 
is not less than eight hundred millions of 
dollars a year. Our supply of white pine is 
rapidly diminishing, and other valuable spe- 
cies will be as ruthlessly wasted when the 
pine is gone. When the inevitable timber 
famine comes, it will be a more serious ca- 
lamity than would be the failure of any other 
crop for ten consecutive years. Far-seeing 
people have long ago raised their voices in 
protest against this vandalism, and scientists 
are a unite in saying that our frequent and 
long-continued drouths are in part attribut- 
able to the disappearance of the forests and 
clearing of the timber lands. A remedy 
should be applied, and is to be found in the 
method adopted in European countries for 
the preservation of the forests. If these 
precautions are not taken we will have rea- 
son in the future to rue our presejnt neglect. 
On Saturday morning, May 25, we bid 
adieu to Linz. A stately river steamer, the 



AUSTEIA AND HUNGAEY. 35 

''Buda-Pestli" lay at the wharf. Even be- 
fore the time for starting her decks were 
crowded with a motley assemblage of pas- 
sengers. We joined them, for our objective 
point was imperial Vienna and for that place 
was the vessel bound. It was an ideal day^ 
bright and balmy, and the surface of the 
transparent waters was placid and tranquil. 
All things augured a pleasant and enjoy- 
able journey. We had looked forward to 
this journey with much pleasure, and our 
anticipations were fully realized, for the 
Danube is, next to the Volga, the largest 
river in Europe, and, unquestionably one of 
the most picturesque, surpassing in some re- 
spects even the Rhine. At times the banks 
broaden out into level plains clothed in the 
verdure of pastures and cultivated fields, 
and, again, they rise directly from the water's 
edge and culminate in lofty mountain peaks. 
Here the eye rests upon carefully worked 
vine-yards, gardens and pretty villas ; there 
the ruined walls of some ancient feudal castle 
tower above the dense foliage like an eagle's 
nest perched upon the mountain summit. 
The landscape offers in constant variation 
the calm and smiling beauty of the valley or 



36 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

the awe-inspiring grandeur of the heights. 
Amazed at these marvels of nature, the pas- 
senger stands motionless against the guards, 
drinking in the romantic beauty of the scene. 
We Illinoisans were carried away with en- 
thusiasm over the wonders displayed by the 
Danube as we moved eastward on its blue 
waters. 

There were but few — perhaps half a dozen 
English-speaking persons among the pas- 
sengers. Towards dusk, when the shades of 
evening were falling we drew near Vienna, 
the "Donaustadt," Austria's capital, a city 
of 1,670,000 inhabitants, the third largest on 
the continent, of which the Viennese merrily 
sing: 

'^Es gibt nur a Kaiserstadt, 
Es gibt nur a Wien." 

Vienna is one of the most attractive capi- 
tals of Europe. The Ringstrasse, a series of 
boulevards lined with palatial buildings and 
planted with trees, forms a belt around its 
greater part. This and the almost equally 
fine streets crossing it constitute the favorite 
quarter of the wealthy. Among the prom- 
inent edifices on the Ringstrasse are the 
academy of fine arts, the conservatory of 




ST. STEPHEN'S CATHEDRAL, VIENNA. 



AUSTRIA AND HUNGAEY. 37 

music, the museum of arts and industry, 
military head quarters, the parliament 
house, the city hall and the imperial muse- 
um. The most important square is the 
Stephansplatz upon which the cathedral 
faces, and which is the center of the city. 
St. Stephen's Cathedral, considered one of 
the most magnificent specimens of Gothic 
architecture, dates from the fourteenth cen- 
tury. It is three hundred and fifty-four feet 
long, two hundred and thirty feet broad, and 
its spire reaches a height of four hundred 
and seventy feet. Among the other notable 
places of worship is the Capuchin church, 
which contains the burial vault of the im- 
perial family, and the Votivkirche, erected 
in 1856 in commemoration of the Emperor's 
escape from assassination in 1853. The 
Prater is the principle promenade and resort 
for the Viennese, and is five miles long. It 
contains six main avenues. There are to be 
found amusements of all sorts, band con- 
certs, panoramas, theatres, rustic kitchens, 
wine and beer gardens and the race course. 
The Volksgarten and the city park are 
favorite rendez vous. Charming scenery is 
encountered in the environs of the city. The 



38 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

heights of Leopoldberg and Kahlenberg com- 
mand a view extending to the Styrian Alps 
on the sonth and the Carpathians on the 
east. The famous gardens of Schoenbrunn, 
the summer residence of the Emperor are 
wonderously beautiful. Vienna is mentioned 
in history as early as the second century. 
In 1485 it was captured by Corvinus, and 
was heroically defended against Sultan Soli- 
man in 1529. Again in 1683 the valor of 
Stahremberg and the timely succor of John 
Sobieski of Poland saved the city from a 
second invasion of the Turks. Our stay in 
Vienna occured during the Pentecost holi- 
days which are for the Viennese one con- 
tinuous round of pleasure. During these 
days all work is suspended, and every one, 
no matter how limited his means may be, 
joins in the general dizzy whirl. It was no 
small relief to us both to spend a few quiet 
hours in our room at the hotel ^'Zur golde- 
nen Ente." 

One of our last visits before leaving 
Vienna was to the American consulate, 
where we were cordially received by the 
gentleman in charge. We obtained all the 
necessary information regarding passports, 



AUSTRIA AND HUNGARY. 39 

routes, etc., and after an hour's interesting 
conversation, we waved a parting salute to 
the stars and stripes floating in the morning 
breezes over the consulate, and, hurrying 
back to the hotel, took dinner, drove to the 
station, and were on our way to Hungary's 
capital by two o ' clock . Speeding over fertile 
plains that promised a rich harvest, past 
numerous towns and villages, we arrived at 
our destination that evening, May 28th, at 
seven and established our head quarters at 
the '^Erzherzog Josef." This city is, like 
Vienna, picturesquely situated on the banks 
of the Danube. Three fine bridges span the 
river, uniting the twin cities, Buda andPesth. 
Overhanging the river and planted on the 
summit of the Blocksberg is Buda-var, an 
impregnable fortress, and the royal castle. 
Further east, hard by the river side, are the 
elegant and beautiful houses of the parlia- 
ment undoubtedly among the finest in the 
world. Local traffic and interurban com- 
munication is carried on by electric street 
railways. The streets are well paved and 
the parks, zoological gardens, commercial 
emporiums, banks, spacious hotels and pa- 
latial residences all combine to make of 



40 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

Buda-Pesth one of the foremost cities of 
Europe. The population at present is 505,- 
763. It was here that for the first time we 
felt creeping over us a feeling akin to lone- 
liness. This was but natural, for we had 
suddenly come into the midst of a people 
with whom we had no point of contact — 
whose language and customs differed radi- 
cally from our own. Wherever we turned 
Magyar accents greeted our ears. The Slavic 
tongue was the spoken and printed medium 
of intercourse. Here and elsewhere when 
English or German was insufficient, we had 
recourse to French which always stood us in 
good stead. 

And here let me remark that the traveller 
who has command of but one language, is, 
in foreign countries, placed entirely at the 
mercy of others. He will be defrauded, over- 
charged, and taken advantage of in various 
ways. An example of this came under our 
notice. A gentleman and lady from Chicago 
were travelling in Europe. We met them in 
the Roman catacombs just after their return 
from Pompeii and Vesuvius. Ordinarily the 
carriage fare from Naples to these places does 
not exceed twenty or twenty-five lire. Our 



AUSTEIA AND HUNGARY. 41 

Chicago grain merchant and his wife, how- 
ever, ignorant and not at all suspicious of 
the crooked ways of the wily Italian, were 
compelled to part with some one hundred 
and twenty lire before their drivers con- 
descended to take them back to their hotel, 
where they arrived at half -past two in the 
morning. 

The majority of educated people in Europe 
understand and speak French. For centuries 
it has been recognized as the official language 
by foreign courts and governments, and its 
study is compulsory in almost every high 
school, gymnasium and college. 

We experienced some difficulty in corn- 
forming to Hungarian customs during our 
brief stay in the country. At hotels and 
restaurants bread and butter is only served 
by request. For coffee you must go to a 
regular ^'Kavehaz." In the absence of a 
regular bill of fare you will be treated three 
times a day to ^'goulasc," the national dish, 
whilst ''bor and ''sor" accompany every 
meal. Hungary is the home of the far- 
famed Tokay wine 

The monetary system in Austria and Hun- 
gary is rather perplexing and complicated 



42 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

for a stranger. One of the first things to 
learn when visiting a foreign land is the 
coinage and its value. This knowledge will 
obviate many difficulties and greatly facili- 
tate whatever business one may have to 
transact. In the Austrian Empire there is 
very little gold in circulation because of its 
scarcity and consequent premium. At Pas- 
sau, where, it will be remembered, we crossed 
the frontier, we gave gold at the bank to be 
exchanged for Austrian currency which we 
requested might be also in gold. The clerk 
regarded us an instant with big questioning 
eyes, as if he had misunderstood our de- 
mand, then, with a broad smile, he ex- 
plained that such a thing as paying out gold 
was almost unknown to bankers in Austria. 
They had no gold. For our precious metal 
we received paper bills and departed wiser 
men. The various coins which circulate in 
the Empire are Filler, Heller, Kreuzer, 
Krone and Gulden. 

Here in Hungary and further east in 
Roumania and Transylvania is the home of 
the G-ypsies, the terror of children, a no- 
madic, vagabond people who wander over the 
face of the globe, but have nowhere a fixed 



AUSTEIA AND HUNGAEYj 43 

abiding place. They practice the arts of 
fortune telhng and palmistry. Industry is 
not very highly developed among them, be- 
ing confined chiefly to the tinkering of cheap 
hardwares, and turning a few articles in 
wood. They are experienced horse traders 
and are said to be great thieves. They have 
little or no religious belief and there are no 
words in their language to signify Grod, the 
soul or immortality. Marriage is a temporary 
bond with them, and the limits of consan- 
guinity are not respected. The Grypsy phys- 
iognomy is Asiatic in type, with tawny 
complexion, quick black eyes, jet black hair, 
high cheek bones, slightly projecting lower 
jaw and fine white teeth. Their bearing and 
posture somewhat resembles that of our In- 
dian. I had an opportunity of studying 
these characteristics while travelling from 
Schlagel to Linz, as two gens d'armes 
boarded the train with a band of shackled 
and handcuffed Grypsies, two men and three 
women, whom they were taking to police 
headquarters. My curiosity being aroused, 
I went the entire distance in the same coupe 
with them. The Grypsies are ignorant of 
their own origin, and, as history has failed 



44 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

to record their migrations, there are many 
different opinions on the subject. Some con- 
tend that they are from India, and were 
driven thence by the ravages of Tamerlane 
in 1398, and that they belonged to the 
Soodra caste or to the Pariahs. Others as- 
sign Lower Egypt as the place of their 
origin. My aversion to them dates from the 
early days when as a child I was often 
frightened by these venders of mouse traps, 
and even now there is hardly a child who 
will venture near the camping grounds of 
these roving Grypsy bands. 

In our country much has been said and 
written concerning the emancipation and 
enfranchisement of woman, her relations to 
society, to politics, and to the world of bus- 
iness. Our American women exercise fully 
and freely all their prerogatives and privi- 
leges. Their sisters in Hungary and the 
eastern states of Europe are less fortunate, 
nay, the lot of the women of the poorer 
classes is deplorable, and demands ameliora- 
tion. Will my fair readers believe that I saw 
women carry the bricks aiid mortar for the 
construction of a four- story building, unload 
railroad cars, break stone and macadamize 



AUSTRIA AND HUNGARY. 45 

the public highways and plow in the fields ? 
I spite of their great physical exertions they 
all seemed healthy and robust, contented and 
happy. 

Throughout our overland journey we 
travelled on ^''D" trains distinct from the 
"Orient Express." This latter is transcon- 
tinental, starting from Brussels, and mak- 
ing connections at all the most important 
European centers. The cars are fitted with 
all modern comforts like our palace cars. 
Only those holding first class tickets and 
paying an additional charge of thirty per 
cent are admitted to these trains. When 
about to leave Hungary, my friend and I 
seriously considered the advisability of tak- 
ing the "Orient Express" for Constantin- 
ople. After carefully weighing the pros and 
cons, we decided to continue our travel as 
leisurely as before on the "D" train, which 
would arrive only three hours later, and 
which carried dining and sleeping cars. On 
the afternoon of May 30th, we bade fare- 
well to Buda-Pesth, and, taking the train at 
twenty minutes of three, we were soon push- 
ing onward towards Servia. 



THE BALKAN STATES. 

The road which leads from Buda-Pesth 
across these eastern states is popularly known 
as the ^ 'Baron Hirsch Eoad, ' ' because Hirsch 
seems to be the principal stockholder, and 
with his millions the road is, in the main, 
operated. We were no longer caged in and 
cooped up. As these coaches are provided 
with narrow passageways which led through 
the entire length of the wagon and per- 
mit free access to all the coupes. We had 
interesting travelling companions on our 
journey eastward. Let us scrutinize them 
more closely. There was a gentleman from 
Buda-Pesth, a cattledealer by profession, 
if such it may be called, who proved to be 
very agreeable and loquacious, and enlight- 
ened us on many points regarding his own 
country which had been obscure or un- 
known. His son, a lad of some nineteen 
summers, and a piano virtuoso, was, he 
said, to make his debut in the United States 
that summer. The old gentleman had al- 
ready visions of future success and fame for 
(46) 



BALKAN STATES. 47 

liis boy, and was confident that he would 
return a milhonaire. Another passenger, 
and one who had travelled much, was a 
beardless Viennese who spoke fluently five 
languages. His demeanor was at all times 
courteous and polite, and in conversation 
he displayed considerable knowledge of the 
Orient. Then there was a Greek- American 
from New York, sent out by his house to 
buy oriental pelts and hides. He, too, helped 
no little to make the hours of railway travel, 
often so wearisome, pass pleasantly by. A 
German civil engineer in the employ of the 
Hirsch road and stationed at Adrianople was 
another well-informed and obliging member 
of the party, whilst three bright children re- 
turning home from a German school in 
charge of a governess, dispelled by their 
mirth the last vestige of ennui. They chatted 
in Greek, French and German. 

By seven o'clock that evening we had 
reached the last town on Hungarian terri- 
tory, and from that time until our arrival at 
Constantinople our passports and luggage 
underwent rigid examination by the frontier 
police and customs officials both on entering 
and leaving each country. Here in the East 



48 EUROPE J THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

it is as difficult to leave a country as it is to 
enter it, and a passport is an absolute neces- 
sity without which you cannot proceed on 
your journey, but are either detained, sent 
back or perhaps even imprisoned. The 
Hungarian officials opened the inspection 
seance. By it they intended to satisfy them- 
selves that we were not escaping criminals 
or political fugitives attempting to flee the 
country and thus evade the arm of retrib- 
utive justice. After dispelling from their 
minds any and every doubt by exhibiting 
Uncle Sam's credentials, we were permitted 
to depart from the domain of Emperor 
Francis Joseph and pass on to King Alex- 
ander's realm, where, half an hour later, the 
same performance was to be gone through 
with again. The comedy was repeated with 
scrupulous exactitude seven times in the 
next forty hours, after which our pass-ports 
showed various queer looking stamps and 
odd hieroglyphics in the shape of endorse- 
ments. Try as we might we were obliged 
to give up and confess our inability to de- 
cipher them. These characters were, for us, 
as unreadable as the spoken jargon was un- 
intelligible. 



THE BALKAN STATES. 49 

Servia, which we entered on leaving Hun- 
gary, gained its independence in 1829 after 
a war with Turl^ey which lasted fourteen 
years, and was erected into a kingdom in 
1882. The executive authority is vested in 
a king who is assisted by eight ministers. 
The legislative body is the Narodna Skupsh- 
tina or national assembly, a single house 
composed of one hundred and seventeen 
members elected by the nation. The present 
ruler is Alexander I., born August 14th, 
1876. He succeeded to the throne on March 
6, 1889, when his father, the notorious 
King Milan, who died in ignominy in Paris 
last year, was compelled to abdicate. The 
prince belongs to the Obrenovitch dynasty. 

The area of Servia comprises 16,817 square 
miles, and its population, about two and 
a half millions, is a mixed one, consisting 
of Serbs proper, Wallachs, Gypsies, Turks, 
Bulgarians, Jews, Grermans and Hungarians. 
The Serbs are among the most spirited of 
the Slavic peoples. There is no recognized 
nobility among them, and the peasants live 
under the authority of a chief of their own 
selection. The Servian language together 
with the Russian and Bulgarian, forms the 



50 EUKOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

eastern group of the Slavic languages. It 
is spoken by the Serbs, Bosnians, Herzego- 
vinians, Montenegrins, Slavonians and Dal- 
matians. The Servians hold religious com- 
munion with the Greek Church, presided 
over by a Patriarch. 

The country is broken by ramifications of 
the Carpathians in the north east, the Bal- 
kans in the south east and the Dinaric alps 
in the west. Most of the mountains are 
covered by dense forests. The climate is 
severe in the uplands but mild in the val- 
leys. 

Belgrade, meaning white city, is the seat 
of government, and has seventy thousand 
inhabitants. We arrived here on a clear 
moonlight night, but the place presents 
few interesting points. It is partly oriental, 
partly modern in appearance, and, except 
for its historical reminiscences, has little at- 
traction for the stranger, who consequently 
shortens his stay. Belgrade was long an 
object of contention between the Christians 
and the Turks. It was unsuccessfully be- 
sieged by the latter in 1456 when John 
Hunyadi defended it against Mohammed 
II., but was taken by Soliman the Magni- 



THE BALKAN STATES. 51 

ficent in 1521 and held until 1688 when it 
was recaptured by the Elector of Bavaria. 
Having again fallen into the hands of the 
Turks, Belgrade was liberated by the gallant 
Prince Eugene, after a prodigious victory 
in which vastly superior numbers were com- 
pletely routed and put to flight. 

At Belgrade we partook of an early morn- 
ing breakfast, and posted letters for home. 
The day was as bright and sunny as the 
preceding, and hilarity and good humor 
reigned supreme in our coupe as we sped 
through Servian territory and entered that 
of Bulgaria. 

Bulgaria is a principality, tributary to 
Turkey. It covers 24,360 square miles and 
has an estimated population of somewhat 
more than two and a half millions. The 
southern part of the country is almost en- 
tirely overrun by branches of the Balkan 
range. The dress of a Bulgarian consists of 
a sheepskin cap, a short open jacket often 
also of sheepskin, a broad girdle and baggy 
trousers buckled at the knee with folds of 
flannel wrapped around the legs. The chief 
occupations of the people are agriculture and 
cattle raising. Grain is produced in large 



52 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 



quantities and the wine is extensively culti- 
vated. Bulgaria and the adjacent province 
of Macedonia are thought to be the cradle 
of the Slavic languages. Belonging to an- 
cient Bulgarian literature is a translation of 
the Bible made by saints Cyril and Me- 
thodius, the apostles of Bulgaria in the tenth 
century. At present the religion is that of 
the Grreek church. Sofia is the capital city. 
On September 7th, 1886, Prince Alexander 
of Battenberg was forced to abdicate, and 
after a short interregnum the Sobranje 
or national assembly, unanimously elected 
Prince Ferdinand of Saxony as their prince. 
He assumed the reins of government Au- 
gust 14th, 1887. 

But we must not tarry on the way, as the 
journey before us is a long one. 

We remained at Sofia but a short time as 
the city contains little that is attractive. It 
resembles a large village. From Bulgaria 
we passed into Eastern E-oumelia which is 
now known as Southern Bulgaria. It is an 
autonomous province of Turkey, united to 
Bulgaria by act of the people who, in 1885 
deposed their governor and proclaimed the 
union. Prince Alexander assumed adminis- 



THE BALKAN STATES. 53 

tration and since then the Eastern Roumel- 
ians have sent representatives to the So- 
branje. The province contains 13,500 square 
miles. Phihppopel is the former capital. 
At this place the bright and cheerful child- 
ren with their governess bade us adieu, and 
as we had already parted with our Buda- 
Pesth friend, the cattle dealer, and also with 
the German civil engineer, the young Vien- 
nese, the Greek- American, my friend and I 
were sole occupants of the coach. We were 
now travelling on the "Zaribrod" railroad, 
which runs from Sofia to Philippopel and 
then into Turkey. The people whom we 
passed along the route began to assume the 
appearance of the subjects of the Sultan. 
The sheepskin cap of the Bulgarian gave 
place to the red fez of the Turk. The small 
jacket, ample trousers "and leggings were 
superseded by the Ottoman costume, the 
indescribable trousers being buckled arround 
the ankle. Throughout the Balkan region 
it was no uncommon sight to see a horse 
and cow harnessed to the same plow or 
wagon. Storks, the traditional family birds, 
congregated in large numbers in meadows 
and marshes, fields and gardens. This would 



54 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

seem to be their home. We had already 
met with them near Bremen and in Baden, 
but not in such force as here. The early- 
fruit was ripe. Great black cherries of su- 
perior flavor and sweetness were offered for 
sale at every stopping place. After a con- 
tinuous and tiring journey of fourty-two 
hours from Buda-Pesth we at last sighted 
the domes and minarets of our long de- 
sired goal, Constantinople, where we ar- 
rived on Saturday morning, June 1st, at a 
quarter after seven. 




TURKEY. 

The Ottoman Empire extends over por- 
tions of eastern Europe, western Asia and 
northern Africa, and is composed of the ab- 
solute possessions of the sultan and his 
dependencies. Turkey proper is divided 
into European Turkey, covering a hundred 
and fourty thousand square miles and hav- 
ing 5,600,000 inhabitants, and Asiatic Tur- 
key embracing seven hundred and sixty 
thousand square miles with a population of 
16,500,000 souls. The will of the sovereign 
is absolute unless it conflicts with the pre- 
cepts of the Koran. The succession to the 
throne is vested in the oldest prince of the 
house of Osman. The present ruler is Abdul 
Hamid II., who was born, September 22, 
1842, and has reigned since the deposition 
of his brother Murad, August 31, 1876. The 
deposed sovereign is said to be still living in 
prison. 

Military service is obligatory for all Mos- 
lems, but at the end of five months service 
(55) 



56 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

the soldier may purchase his release froin 
the remainder of his term in the nizam or 
army. Those who are not Turks are not 
liable to service, but must pay a military ex- 
emption tax known as the ''bedel." 

Polygamy is sanctioned by the Koran 
which, however, limits the number of wives 
to four, and requires that evidence be given 
of the ability to support them. 

And here one may ask, what is the Koran? 
It is the sacred book of the Mohammedans, 
their supreme authority in matters of reli- 
gion, and their code of laws, moral, social 
and civil. Its contents are taken from the 
ancient traditions of the Arabs, the Hebrew 
Bible, the New Testament, the Jewish Tal- 
mud and other sources. It may be summed 
up as a mixture of Paganism, Judaism and 
Christianity, prepared for his followers by 
the self styled prophet, Mohammed, who 
claimed to have had supernatural visions 
and revelations during a period of twenty- 
three years. These revelations are recorded 
in the form of dogmas, conversations with 
Grod, rules of conduct, threats and promises. 

Mohammed, the founder of the Mussel- 
man religion was born at Mecca in Arabia, 



TUEKEY. 57 

November 10, 570, and died in Medina, 
June 8, 632. His Mohammedan biograpliers 
say that his birth was accompanied by mir- 
acles ; that the sacred fires of the Persians 
were extinguished; that the palace of the 
Persian King was shaken by an earthquake ; 
that Lake Sawa was dried up, and that many 
other prodigies took place. His parents were 
poor, and in his youth he gained his liveli- 
hood as a shepherd in the neighborhood of 
Mecca. Later he became a linen trader and 
as such entered the service of a rich widow, 
Khadijah by name. He soon won her affec- 
tions and became her husband. Some years 
after this Mohammed began to resort to a 
cave on Mt. Hara where he gave himself up 
to religious contemplation. Here, during 
the epileptic attacks to which he was subject, 
he received his visions and revelations and 
was at last, as the Koran teaches, trans- 
ported from Mecca to Jerusalem and thence 
to heaven. Legends are current to the effect 
that the Koran was brought to earth by the 
Angel G-abriel, that it was written on the 
skin of the ram offered by Abraham in the 
place of Isaac, and that it is covered with 
silk and ornamented with gold and pearls. 



58 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 



The fundamental dogma of Mohammed- 
anism, and the only one which it is necces- 
sary to profess in order to be considered a 
good Moslem is; ''There is but one God and 
Mohammed is his Prophet." The wife of 
Mohammed was his first convert. He was 
driven from Mecca and fled then to Yath- 
rab or Medina, where the number of his 
followers increased enormously. From this 
flight which is called the "Hegira, ' ' the Mos- 
lem dates the new era. In Arabia tribe after 
tribe trooped to his banner which was one 
of fire and sword. He proclaimed a holy war 
against the Eastern Empire, and made his 
last pilgrimage to Mecca at the head of 
40,000 adherents. 

The Moslems hold that all who believe in 
the unity of God will enter paradise. Their 
practical religion, which they call "din," 
insists, nevertheless on these things : purifi- 
cation and prayer, almsgiving, fasting and 
the pilgrimage to Mecca. They pray five 
times a day, at sunset and at night-fall, at 
day-break, at noon and in the afternoon. 
The time of prayer is announced by the 
"muezzins" from the minarets of the mos- 
ques. We often listened to their call. The 



TUEKEY. 59 

Turk recites his prayers wherever he may 
happen to be, first turning his face towards 
Mecca. On Fridays, however, the devotions 
must be performed in the mosque. The 
Sultan himself is obliged to conform to this 
rule. Until recently the common mortal was 
permitted on the occasion of these Friday 
visits to the mosque, to view the blanched 
and pallid features of his August Highness 
and Imperial Majesty, Sultan Abdul Hamid 
II., but this privelege has been withdrawn 
owing to the fear of assassination. 

During the entire month of Ramadan, the 
ninth of their year, the Turks fast from 
sunrise to sunset and give alms according to 
their ability. The Koran strictly forbids 
the eating of pork, the use of wine or any 
intoxicant, gambling and lending money at 
interest. 

A pilgrimage to Mecca is the fondest 
dream and greatest desire of every Musel- 
man, and he will spend the earnings of a 
lifetime to realize it. It is prescribed by the 
Koran. Those who have accomplished this 
journey are entitled to the prefix ''Hadji," 
meaning holy, before their names. Tradition 
has it that the beard of the Prophet was fiery 



60 EUKOPEj THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

red in color. In Constantinople you may 
see groups of men, aged, for the most part, 
filthy, disheveled, weather beaten and weary 
in appearance, and all with red beards. 
They are pilgrims, just returned from a visit 
to the '^ Caaba," the holy shrine or house of 
Allah at Mecca, having been nine months 
on the way in accordance with the direc- 
tions of the Koran. Whilst there each one 
had his beard dyed. The duty of visiting 
Mecca may be discharged by a substitute in 
which case all the merit redounds to the 
principal. 

Islamism swept onward with rapid strides, 
conquering the whole of Arabia within twelve 
years. The battle of Bostra opened Syria 
to the Arabs, Damascus fell into their hands, 
and, soon afterwards, a battle near Lake 
Genesareth decided the fate of Palestine. 
Jerusalem capitulated on easy terms, and, 
with brief interruptions, has ever since re- 
mained in the hands of the Mohammedans. 
Omar completed the conquest of Egypt, and 
commenced that of northern Africa. In 
the beginning of the eighth century, Tarik 
crossed into Spain. One province after an- 
other was speedily subdued, and for eight 



TUEKEY. 61 

hundred years the Saracens retained dom- 
inion in that country. Charles Martel, in 
732, put a final check upon their progress in 
western Europe. 

The Turks are slow in discharging their 
national obligations. Words supply the place 
of cash, and debts are often paid in prom- 
ises. America's long outstanding grievances 
have not as yet been redressed, while France 
forced a settlement of her claims not long 
since by training the cannon of her warships 
on the Isle of Mytelene. When the grim- 
visaged French ironclads appeared in Turk- 
ish waters cleared for action, the Sublime 
Porte showed unwonted readiness to com- 
ply with the oft repeated demands of the 
French government, and yielded every point 
at issue. This episode has revealed the 
weakness of Turkey and her inability to 
withstand an attack by sea. It is not hazard- 
ous to state that the Ottoman Empire is at 
the mercy of the great powers of Europe. 
The gradual desintegration of its vitality is 
apparent to the most casual observer, and 
some statesmen predict that the downfall of 
the Sultanate is not far off. Turkish office- 
holders are notorious for their incapacity 



62 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

and venality, and many of them are open to 
bribes. It can hardly be otherwise for we 
were assured on good authority that the 
majority of the officials receive but a quarter 
of their pay, three fourth of it, of which 
they never get a cent, remaining to their 
credit on paper. 

The most adroit and cunning subject of 
the Sultan is the Armenian, who eclipses 
both the Grreek and the Jew. In Turkey 
proper he often prospers, holds official posi- 
tions and acts as dragoman at the foreign 
embassies, making a good living by means 
of his linguistic attainments. In his native 
country, however, his lot is deplorable by 
reason of the severity of the Turkish officials 
and the fearful ravages of the Kurds. Vast 
numbers of maltreated Armenians are forced 
to embrace Mohammedanism in order to es- 
cape persecution and death, as the Mussel- 
man respects no laws except those enjoined 
by the Koran, which justifies, nay, directs 
the persecution and annihilation of Christ- 
ians. Any Turk who embraces Christianity 
becomes outlawed and is subject to capital 
punishment. 

The native Christian subjects whether 



lUEKEY. 6S 

Greeks or Slavs are for the most part mem- 
bers of the Grreek church, the chief branch 
of which acknowledges the Russian Czar as 
supreme head. From this fact results the 
great influence of Russia in Turkey. 

The Jews in Turkey are generally poor. 
Most of them are of Spanish origin, and 
speak a Spanish dialect. With the excep- 
tion of those whose wealth secures them 
special privileges, they are forced to wear a 
distinctive costume. 

The Turks respect foreigners only when 
they have official rank or are surrounded 
with special protection. In other cases the 
slightest provocation is sufficient to reveal 
their innate prejudice against the ^ ^giaour," 
( Christian dog J , though when not influenced 
by fanatical passion they are remarkable for 
their dignity and courtesy and for honesty 
in their private and business affairs. 

Lacordaire has thus described the condi- 
tion of woman beyond the reach of the in- 
fluence of Christianity: ''Man has heaped 
upon his companion every hardship and 
privation which his ingenuity could suggest. 
He has taken her captive, — he has shrouded 
her with a veil, — he has hidden her in the 



64 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

most secluded portion of his house, — he has 
denied her education and the pleasures of 
the mind, and he has taken her in marriage 
under the form of a chattel bought and sold 
in the market place." These words aptly 
picture the Turkish woman's position which 
is altogether peculiar, not to say pitiable. 
As far as her material welfare is concerned, 
she is not as unhappy as her sisters in many 
another pagan land, but morally speaking 
she is almost annihilated. 

The late Dr. Cooke, treating of this sub- 
ject in his book, ''^Satanin Society" says: 
'^It would seem that the sensuality of the 
Mohammedans has aimed to destroy the last 
vestiges of her moral nature, leaving only 
the automaton, the physical being, the pas- 
sive instrument. Their word designating a 
certain class of wives has the same root 
as another word which signifies utensil! 
Horrible state of society ! Where every petty 
despot lives like a bird of prey in his hole, 
like a savage beast in his den ; where all the 
sentiments which bud and develop under 
the influence of woman in Christian lands 
are repressed or destroyed, where the most 
abject and disgusting egotism rules, where 



TUKKEY. 65 

love is but gross sensualism, where paternal, 
maternal and filial affection rise but little 
above the instincts of the brute, where wom- 
an passes her life enclosed within four walls, 
or walks enveloped in a long veil, like a 
phantom revisiting a world to which she no 
longer belongs. Everyone shuns her. She 
moves silently, sadly, lonely amid those 
who treat her as a slave, as a being without 
a soul, without intelligence incapable of lov- 
ing, of feeling or of suffering. What is it to 
be a Musselman? A human brute devoured 
by egotism, in whom nearly every senti- 
ment is extinguished. Never for him can 
sweet memories of the cradle arise in his 
heart, for the woman who gave him birth 
and provided for the first wants of his ex- 
istence, never dreamed of his soul, never 
knelt by her baby to beg for him benedic- 
tion from above, never directed his glances 
to heaven, never taught his lips those sweet 
prayers of childhood which ascend, with all 
their perfume of innocence, to the throne of 
Grod, nor those holy names to be invoked 
when one has need of hope and of consola- 
tion.'' 
To this able description of the political 



66 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

religious and domestic status of the Turkish 
woman we have nothing to add, save a gign 
of sympathy for the unfortunate victim of 
Mohammedan tyranny. 




CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Let us turn now to Constantinople in 
particular, having considered the manners, 
customs and laws of Turkey in general. 

The city of Constantine is superbly situated 
at the southwestern entrance to the Bospho- 
rus and is divided by the Grolden Horn. The 
site is so well chosen that, were the city held 
by a first rate power, it would be of vast strat- 
egic importance, commanding as it does both 
the Mediteranean and the Black Sea and 
communication between Europe and Asia. 
The population is estimated at something 
over a million. Byzantium was the ancient 
name of the city. When Constantine moved 
the seat of government thither from Rome 
in 330, the name was changed. In the middle 
ages the city suffered a large number of 
sieges and assaults and in 1453 it was stormed 
by the Turks, the last emperor, Constantine 
XIII., losing his life in the defense, and 
since that time it has remained in their pos- 
session. 

(67) 



68 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

The picturesque aspect of Constantinople 
is celebrated throughout the world. The 
favorable impression made by the beautiful 
shores, set with villas and gardens, vanishes, 
however, at the first glimpses of the interior 
of the city. The old streets, so irregular as 
to defy all attempts of the stranger at find- 
ing his way, have as a rule no names, are 
badly paved, have no lights at night, no 
numbers on the houses, and in addition to 
their general cheerlessness are the resorts of 
thousands of homeless ownerless dogs. The 
houses are for the greater part built of 
wood, hence destructive fires are of frequent 
occurrence. In 1852 an aggregate of three 
thousand two hundred houses were destroyed 
in this way, while in 1865 a still more 
serious conflagration swept away eight thou- 
sand houses, twenty mosques and a number 
of public buildings. Again in 1870 and 
1873 the city suffered severely by fire. 

Among the best known suburbs are Pera, 
Gralata and Scutari. The first is the center 
for the higher classes of the Christians and 
the place of residence of the foreign minis- 
ters. It has fine hotels, schools, a hospital 
and a French college. Galata is the princi- 



CONSTANTINOPLE . 69 

pal commercial suburb and is constantly 
thronged by busy merchants, clerks, porters, 
seamen and so forth. Scutari is situated on 
the Asiatic side. An immense number of 
'^Kaiks" or small boats, facilitate com- 
munication between it and Constantinople. 
In Galata there are Khans and warehouses, 
an imperial palace and the barracks of the 
imperial guard. 

In Pera and Gralata we found flourishing 
communities of various religious orders. 
They exist by treaty rights, are under the 
protection of the flags of their countries, and 
are allowed by the Turks a wide sphere of 
action, and great latitude in the exercise of 
their holy functions and charitable ministra- 
tions. 

We reached Constantinople on June 1st, 
as I have said. Before being allowed to enter 
the city it was necessary to run the gauntlet 
of a number of customs and police officials. 
The . questions, couched in French, were 
somewhat after this sort : 

Who are you"? 

Where do you come from? 

How long will you stay in the city? 

To what hotel do you go ? 



70 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

For what purpose did you comel 
The answers were noted down by two 
officers. Our credentials were then called 
for and carefully scrutinized, though, I am 
convinced, not a word in them was under- 
stood. They looked significantly, however, 
at the seal with the American eagle, and 
with no more ado, dispatched passports and 
statements to police headquarters. 

This done the customs officers commenced 
their work. They ransacked our few belong- 
ings, unpacking and examining almost every 
article, but found nothing suspicious look- 
ing or dutiable until they came upon our 
harmless guide books. Ha! Important dis- 
covery! Our breviaries remained unmo- 
lested, but the poor guidebooks were ruth- 
lessly confiscated, carefully tied together 
with strong twine and sent to customs head- 
quarters. With a grim smile of satisfac- 
tion, as though he had thwarted a plot or 
saved the country by the timely discovery 
of impending danger, the Turk motioned to 
us that we might now go about our business. 
I remonstrated with him at the confiscation 
of our books. I argued, and even threatened 
him with Uncle Sam's vengeance, but all to 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 71 

no avail. The books were '^corpus delicti." 
Our passports, duly viseed and endorsed by 
the Turkish police were that day returned 
to us at our hotel. Every stranger who en- 
ters the city is immediately placed under 
police surveillance. The officers of the 
law can produce him whenever he may be 
wanted. 

Beckoning to one of the many boisterous 
and impudent cabdrivers, who are ready 
at all times to snatch your baggage from 
your hand and tear the coat off your back, 
we were soon on our way to the Pera Palace 
Hotel, where, after breakfasting we were 
glad to retire, and seek much needed rest 
and sleep. Of our impressions of Constan- 
tinople I will let my friend speak. I quote 
from a letter of his. 

'^ The old saying, 'the first impression is 
the worst', was true in this case. Wearied 
by our long journey, and in ill humor over 
the loss of our guidebooks, we were in a bad 
frame of mind to enjoy the beauty of the 
place. The air which greeted our nostrils 
was heavy from recent rains, and reeking 
with unpleasant odors, while our eyes were 
offended by thousands of dirty Turks and 



72 EUKOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

more thousands of street dogs. At present 
things are brighter. Providentially I have 
taken the worst cold I ever had in my life, 
so that I have temporarily lost all sense of 
smell, and, moreover, my innate love for 
dogs has overcome another objection. Of 
the Turk, however, I retain my first im- 
pression. 

Constantinople is called the city of the 
dogs. Some declare that the dogs are the 
most numerous class of the inhabitants. 
They are pariah dogs with no masters and 
no homes but the streets of the city. You 
find them in packs of eight or ten, in pairs 
or singly, on door steps, on the side walks 
or in the middle of the streets. They sel- 
dom enter a yard or house. They will not 
stir from the spot where they lie. Pedes- 
trians walk over them, and teamsters drive 
around them. I have seen a cabdriver stop 
his horse with a sudden jirk in order to al- 
low a dog time to get out of the way. For- 
eigners are not always so kind. Each dog 
has his own street — his own territory which 
he may not leave with impunity. Those 
who have made a study of these dogs say 
that one dog is the acknowledged leader of 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 73 

a district, who patrols the streets of that 
quarter, and woe to the nnhicky intruder 
whom he may spy. The dogs are somewhat 
of the shepherd breed, not quite so large as 
ours, with yellowish gray hair. They are 
of a cowardly, sulking disposition, and seem 
utterly indifferent to man. They sleep all 
day and seem to reserve all their fights for 
the night. Then all differences are adjusted 
and lucky are you if you are a sound sleeper. 
For the Turk the dog is a sacred animal. 
He never harms one, and believes his sins 
are forgiven if he feeds a dog ; but the touch 
of a dead dog renders him unclean. A few 
days ago I watched the attempts of a Turkish 
scavenger to remove the carcass of a dog. 
The poor fellow worked an hour, trying to 
lift the dog with a spade into the basked 
strapped to the back of his little donkey. 
He would get the dog almost to the height 
of the basket, and then it would roll off like 
a big potato from a teaspoon. At last it 
occurred to him to wrap a piece of paper 
around the hind leg, and then success was 
his. The ungodly foreigners sometimes poi- 
son the most vociferous of the dogs in order 
to gain a little rest at night, and they would 



74 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

gladly push on the good work were it not 
for the costliness of poison and the great 
danger of detection. 

The Turkish policeman is unique. As 
soon as darkness sets in, he walks about the 
streets, striking the cobble stones with a 
resounding whack at every step, to warn 
the prowling thief that he is on duty. A 
better protection — for the thief could not 
well be devised. The only thief he would 
ever catch would be a deaf thief. Between 
the howling dogs and the pounding police- 
man to make night hideous, you are in a 
quandry as to which deserves the largest 
share of your anathemas. 

The fire brigade is also a model institu- 
tion. From the high Gralata tower over- 
looking the city, the watchman detecting a 
blaze will give vent to a fearful bawl. He 
then runs down to the street and informs 
the policeman of the whereabouts of the 
fire. The policeman in turn does his duty 
by informing the next officer in fearful bawls. 
When the volunteer firemen have been suffi- 
ciently aroused from their slumbers to realize 
their duty, the ante-diluvian fire apparatus 
is pulled out and they set off for the scene 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 75 

of action. Arrived here, the chief of the 
department will hunt up the owner of the 
building, and haggle with him over the price 
to be paid for saving his property. Not a 
hand is turned until this all important af- 
fair is satisfactorily settled, and then the 
blaze is extinguished — if, in the mean time, 
the building has not burned down. 

The tax collector is a very obliging official. 
He comes, as he is in duty bound, but you 
tell him you are too poor, you cannot pay. 
He will pity you for you poverty, and bow 
himself out. He may come again sometime 
later, but you are no richer. The next year 
you are poorer still, and, of course, you 
cannot pay. But if any improvements are 
to be made no permission will be granted 
until all back taxes are paid. Of course not 
many indulge in the luxury of making im- 
provements. 

In fact everything is in a rickety condi- 
tion. The pontoon bridges spanning the 
Grolden Horn with their warped flooring 
would disgrace our country mud roads. 
And yet a stiff bridge toll is exacted. I am 
told that the daily income of these bridges 
amounts to ten thousand dollars. However, 



76 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

this income is not used for repairing the 
bridges, but goes to the army. The landing 
places for the steamers are like old store 
boxes with roofs on them. 

The city being built on the hillsides, and 
the streets paved with cobble stones, trans- 
portation by wagon is impracticable. Little 
donkeys or small horses with huge baskets 
strapped to their sides are used. These carry 
everything, meat, bread, vegetables, bricks, 
stone, mortar, garbage. Sometimes you may 
see a train of them, one following another. 
Then there are pack carriers, human beasts 
of burden with a sort of pack saddle upon 
their backs. You would be astonished to 
see what great burdens they can carry. 
Bending low and completely hidden by their 
bulky loads, the wonder is how they can 
pick their way along. With narrow streets 
crowded by thousands of persons on foot, 
dogs to step over about every ten paces, 
pack mules and pack carriers to be avoided, 
shouting cabdrivers behind you and perhaps 
some persistent women begging at your el- 
bow, you may easily imagine that this place 
is not fitted for a pleasure stroll." 

In the afternoon of the day of our arrival 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 77 

we joined a party of tourists, some fifty in 
number, for whose benefit the Dragoman's 
Union had procured a permit from the Sul- 
tan to visit the old palace, the treasury and 
an unused harem. For every permit thus 
issued three hundred francs must be paid in 
advance. This is the "conditio sine qua 
non," hence every one in the party paid his 
share. Carriages were sent for us at one 
o'clock, and we all met at a certain place in 
Stamboul not far from the foreign offices. 
Our first visit was to the palace of Dolma- 
Bagdshe, not the Yildiz in which the Sultan 
now resides. The attendants were very cour- 
teous. We were ushered into grand recep- 
tion rooms, where, after waiting a little 
while, we were served with glasses of cool 
water into which a small spoonful of syrup 
of roses had been stirred. The afternoon 
was extremely hot, and the drink was very 
refreshing in effect. The chief attendant 
now led the way through vestibules, halls, 
parlors, rotundas, up the grand stairway to 
balconies and royal reception rooms, the 
beauty and grandeur of which defy every 
attempt at portrayal. Fill your imagination 
with the wonders described in fairy tales, 



78 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

and then multiply this a hundred times and 
you may form some idea of the splendor 
that dazzled our eyes. The sights in the 
abandoned harem rivaled those in the 
palace. Before leaving each person was in- 
vited to partake of a tiny cup of strong, 
aromatic coffee, such as only the higher 
classes among the Turks use, and the brew- 
ing of which only a Turk understands. This 
attention was due to the fact that, for the 
time being we were considered as guests of 
the Sultan. 

We crossed the Grolden Horn to the treas- 
ury building in a Kaik. These Kaiks were 
propelled by six brawny muscular rowers. 
They were barefooted, clothed in long flow- 
ing white robes open at the chest and wore 
the inevitable red fez displayed by all Turks 
from the Sultan to the lowliest of his subjects. 
Arrived at the treasury building, we first 
passed through a long double file of soldiers 
and were then conducted behind the heavy 
doors. Gruards were distributed throughout 
the building, so that one was never out of 
arm's reach of a soldier. ''This building," 
exclaimed my friend, ''realizes the miser's 
dream of wealth." Here were great bowls 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 79 

filled with diamonds, rubies and pearls, 
garments thickly strewn with precious 
stones, golden swords whose hilts fairly- 
blazed with diamonds and rubies, exquisite 
works of art in gold and silver. There was 
a golden throne, ornamented with mosaic in 
precious stones, which had been captured in 
Persia in the sixteenth century, another an- 
cient throne made of ebony and set with 
rubies, saphires and pearls, while suspended 
from the walls and ceiling were a multitude 
of objects of inestimable value, weapons, 
helmets, turbans, robes, worn by the different 
sultans from 1433 down to 1839, all of 
which were bedecked with the rarest gems. 
Under the guidance of the Sultan's adjutant 
we inspected the contents of three rooms. 
A fourth remained closed. It harbors the 
mantle of the Prophet, his banner, staff and 
sword and also some relics preserved from 
the time of the Byzantine Empire — an arm 
of St. John the Baptist enshrined in gold 
and a portion of the Holy Cross. We re- 
turned to the hotel that evening with the 
consciousness of having spent a very in- 
structive afternoon. 

On our return from this expedition we 



80 EUKOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

happened to learn that the Lazarist Fathers 
conducted a large school in Galata in con- 
nection with St. George's Church. We paid 
them a visit. They are a fine body of edu- 
cated and intelligent men with many years 
experience of Constantinople and the Orient. 
The superior, a venerable octogenarian gave 
us a cordial welcome and offered us accomo- 
dations with the community. Realizing that 
we could not spend our time amid more con- 
genial and profitable surroundings, we had 
our luggage transferred, and became their 
guests during the remainder of our stay in 
Constantinople. Among our pleasantest re- 
collections are those which revive the happy 
hours we spent at St. George's. 

The Sisters of St. Vincent de Paul have a 
large Orphan Asylum in the city and also 
conduct a clinical institute of Ophthalmogy, 
with which the most prominent occulists are 
connected. Diseases of the eye are very 
prevalent in the East and especially in Syria, 
where it is caused by the dusty roads and 
torrid heat. 

We found an experienced guide by the 
name of Roth, a native of Bavaria, who had 
acted as dragoman in Constantinople for 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 81 

twenty-eight years and knew every inch of 
ground in that labyrinthine city. Moreover 
he understood and spoke Turkish. This man, 
who was an impecunious adventurer and an 
adroit fellow, we engaged at ten francs a 
day, all incidental expenses to be extra. We 
might have done better with a Turk, G-reek 
or Armenian, but, having agreed to the 
bargain, we had to make best of it. 

Our first excursion was on Sunday after- 
noon, June 2, when we went to the famous 
Galata Tower. From the top of this round 
tower, which is a colossal monument of an- 
cient times, one has an incomparable view 
of Constantinople, the Bosphorus, the Grolden 
Horn and the Black Sea beyond. The be- 
holder is lost in admiration of the enchant- 
ing panorama spread out before him. From 
this tower a sentinel announces the approach 
of ships and the outbreak of fires. 

The remainder of this Sunday we spent 
quietly in the company of our genial hosts. 
The following days were given up to sight- 
seeing. 

''When in Rome, do as the Romans do," 
is a piece of advice which 'may often be fol- 
lowed with advantage. Applying it to our 



82 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPTP. 

present situation, we decided to conform in 
some measure to Turkish customs. So we 
each purchased a fez, which we wore from 
that time until we embarked at Alexandria 
for the return trip to Italy. In light checked 
suits, and the Turkish fez, with briskly 
growing beards we mingled everywhere with 
the populace, and were looked upon as sub- 
jects of Abdul Hamid. 

The Museum of Antiquities, of great in- 
terest to archaeologists and lovers of ancient 
art, is situated in the gardens of the Se- 
raglio, and contains marvelous treasures re- 
covered from excavations made at Con- 
stantinople, in Greece, Cyprus, Egypt and 
Assyria. Among these the collections of 
the Grerman archaeologist. Dr. Schliemann, 
are of great importance. Here we saw the 
sarcophagus of Alexander the Grreat, a most 
remarkable work. The ornamentation of 
the interior and the execution of the sculpt- 
ure itself is of the highest order of artistic 
excellence. This gigantic casket is attributed 
to Euthykrates, a sculptor of the fourth 
century, B. c. The broad sides and cover 
exhibit in bold relief, hunting and battle 
scenes with Alexander in the foreground. 



CONSTANTINOPLE. S3 

Among Constantinople's seven hundred 
and fifty mosques the most conspicuous and 
notable are the seven on the Seven Hills on 
which the city is built. As a rule each 
mosque has but one minaret or slender tower, 
but these have four and even five. The largest 
of all is the '^Hagia Sophia," the queen of 
churches. This was the objective point of 
one of our expeditions. Four graceful min- 
arets adorn the building and the stately 
cupola is surmounted by a large crescent. 
The permission of the temple Sheik must be 
obtained before entering. This was granted 
upon payment of a fee and extra bakshish 
as usual. 

In the vestibule we were provided with 
Turkish slippers, and removing our own 
shoes, we tied these carefully on so as to 
preclude all possibility of their slipping and 
permitting the foot of a giaour to desecrate 
the temple floor. No sooner had we crossed 
the threshold than we halted, stunned by 
the impressive grandeur and overwhelming 
beauty of the interior. The walls are of 
polished marble, the roof and arches be- 
tween the columns inlaid with beautiful 
mosaicworkin gilt. The sixty-seven columns 



84 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

which support thegalleries are partly of green 
jasper, said to have been taken from the fa- 
mous temple of Diana at Ephesus. The im- 
mense dome rising one hundred and eighty 
feet from the ground is supported by four 
globular segments which in turn are should- 
ered by four colossal pillars. A mystic twi- 
light penetrates the superb stained windows. 
Mohammedans on entering are required to 
wash their feet in two great basins near the 
portal. They squat here and there on the 
floor, produce the Koran and begin to sing 
aloud lessons or prayers therefrom, swing- 
ing their bodies to and fro like the pen- 
dulum of a clock. Here in the temple are 
exposed the two warflags of the Prophet. 
They are of a gray color with the crescent in 
the middle, and are only removed from their 
place above a pulpitlike platform to inflame 
the warriors with hatred and fanaticism 
when a religious war is in progress. The 
''Hagia Sophia" incomparable and unrival- 
led in gorgeousness, was orginally founded 
by Constantino in 325, rebuilt by Justinian 
in 532, transformed into a mosque on the 
fall of Constantinople in 1453 by Mohammed 
II. , and renovated by the renowned architect 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 85 

Fosatti in 1847. The Emperor Justinian 
personally supervised the construction of 
the church and, when it was dedicated, 
it is said that he was so overcome by 
its grandeur and beauty that with uplifted 
eyes and outstretched arms he exclaimed, 
^'Grlory to Grod, who has permitted me to 
complete this work. Solomon I have sur- 
passed thee! " 

One day my friend being indisposed, I 
sallied forth with the dragoman alone. The 
confiscation of our guide books had been 
neither forgotten nor forgiven, and the ob- 
ject of our quest that morning was their re- 
lease from Mohammedan captivity. We 
bore down upon the customhouse deter- 
mined to conquer. There they were, our 
proscribed and imprisoned friends, sharing 
the doom of others of their kind, all wait- 
ing to be liberated by their owners. After 
a forceful parley with the official, success 
was mine, and our faithful companions from 
G-ermany were safely stowed in the inner 
pocket of my coat. Jubilant over this vic- 
tory we started for the ^'Achmed" mosque. 

On the previous day some eight hundred 
pilgrims had returned from their visit to the 



86 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

Caaba. Worn and exhausted after their 
wearisome journey, they had sought a night's 
lodging under the colonade of the mosque, 
where the motley crowd, some with fiery 
red beards, were still congregated on our 
arrival. As already stated, these ''Hadjis" 
are rooted in their fanaticism, and the least 
provocation is often suf&cient to arouse this 
bitter feeling in them. Curiosity prompted 
me to peep into the mosque, the elaborate 
decorations of which are celebrated. Stepp- 
ing over the sleeping form of a Hadji, and 
passing through the vestibule, I stood on 
the threshold of the temple. "For G^od's 
sake, come back," I heard the dragoman ex- 
claim, and so saying, he seized me by the 
shoulder, and jerked me out. The Hadji 
had been roused, and seeing -a giaour with- 
out the prescribed slippers on his feet and 
with no mosque sheik by his side, he had 
sprung to his feet and with flaming eye was 
brandishing a curved dagger in his hand 
while he shouted, ''Advance another step, 
and I will kill you ! ' ' Needless to say, I beat 
a hasty retreat. 

Our consumptive looking purses, losing 
substance daily, now threatened to die of 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 87 

inanition. That we might inject into them 
the infallible elixir, we had recourse to the 
Ottoman Bank, where our letters of credit 
procured sure restoratives. This institution 
is the most powerful in the empire. It was 
here that the fearful slaughter of the Ar- 
menians took place a few years ago. -, To 
prevent a repetition of the treacherous in- 
vasion of the bank by the Armenians, the 
doors are heavily bolted, and a tall,muscular, 
uniformed guard is stationed inside to an- 
swer all calls. From his belt, which is filled 
with cartridges, protrude two ugly looking 
revolvers, whilst he carries a Winchester in 
readiness. This armed guard conducts the 
customer to the proper place, waits by his 
side during the transaction of his business, 
and again accompanies him to the exit. We 
noticed the observance of similar precau- 
tions in Cairo. 

Every visitor should devote a day to the 
Bazaar, which is famous the world over both 
for its magnitude and the variety of the pro- 
ducts which it presents. It extends over 
three hundred streets, lanes and alleys. 
Passing through apparently endless narrow 
passageways arched and covered, we in- 



88 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

spected the bewildering display of mer- 
chandise from the Occident and the Orient. 
Turks, Jews, Arabs and Persians sit by their 
handiwork and their wares, offering for sale 
articles of gold and silver, linens and laces, 
silks and satins, pelts, hides and furs, es- 
sences of violet, rose and heliotrope, weap- 
ons, pottery, spices, fruits, etc., etc. 

The weight of a loaf of bread is deter- 
mined by law, and in the bakeries one may 
see government officials weighing the bread, 
and rejecting all loaves which are under 
weight. For these the baker must pay a fine. 
This measure is certainly commendable. 

In external deportment and appearance 
the average Turk is a model. He is courte- 
ous, obliging, honest and sober. A great 
source of scandal, therefore, and one which 
may account to some extent for the ab- 
horence with which he regards the Christ- 
ians, lies in the fact that in the Christian 
quarter of the city the vilest illustrated 
papers are often publicly displayed, low 
places of amusement abound, honesty gives 
place to fraud and theft, and murders and 
suicides are of daily occurrence. No wonder 
then that in the language of the Turk this 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 89 

part of the city is designated as ^ 'swine 
quarters." 

Eastern fruit is very juicy and luscious. 
When we were in Constantinople the market 
was stocked with strawberries and cherries 
which were sold at a low price. We never 
tasted sweeter or better flavored fruit. 
Citrons attain the size of a small cocoanut. 

Coffee and lemonade are the favorite 
drinks of the moslem, and in their prepara- 
tion he is not to be surpassed. With these 
before him together with his ^'nargileh" or 
waterpipe and his cigarette the son of Mo- 
hammed is supremely contented. In his 
favorite posture, with his legs crossed be- 
neath him, puffing at his nargileh or rolling 
cigarettes between his nimble fingers, he will 
sit all day long on the doorstep, before his 
shop, or in the public square. Every sort 
of business is carried on in public. The 
lawyer sits behind his little table with his 
law book before him, waiting for a client to 
turn up ; the money changer has his stand 
on the sidewalk ; the shopkeeper reposes in 
the midst of his wares, puffing hard at his 
pipe, and the barber may be seen lathering 
the head of his customer with his saliva, for 



90 EUKOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 



the Turk has the crown of his head shaved, 
leaving only a small tuft of hair standing 
above the forehead, which protrudes from 
under the fez. All these and other func- 
tions are performed in public. 

When Emperor William a few years ago 
visited his friend the ''Sick Man on the Bos- 
phorus," he perpetuated the memory of his 
stay by the donation of a beautiful public 
drinking fountain, called the "EmperorWil- 
liam Fountain." This stately monument is 
a center of attraction, and typifies by its 
massive granite blocks the strength and 
durabihty of the Glerman Empire. It is a 
costly gift, worthy of an emperor. 

Not far from this on a public square, the 
ancient Hippodrome, there still stand some 
mute but eloquent witnesses to the greatness 
and glory of bygone days. One is an obe- 
lisk, a gigantic monolith, transported hither 
in 390 from Hehopohs in Egypt by Theodo- 
sius the Grreat, in commemoration of his vic- 
tory over Maxentius. Another, the column 
of the Bronze Serpent was erected by the 
Greeks in Delphi after the battle of Platea 
in 477 B. c, and brought to Constantinople 
by Constantine. A third is the so-called 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 91 

''Burnt Column" in appearance not unlike 
a huge smoke stack, also dating from the 
time of the Constantines, and, finally, there 
are the tremendous ruins of the aqueduct 
constructed under the Emperor Valens. 

Walking beyond the tombs of the sultans 
we came to the Pigeon Mosque, a sacred 
enclosure especially reserved for the pigeons. 
So thickly do they cover the ground that 
the flags are hidden from view. In exchange 
for a few coins the sheik gives a small 
measure of grain with which to feed the 
pigeons. 

A high church dignitary whose name was 
favorably known throughout the city, Msgr. 
Zaghikian, died after a short illness and was 
buried on the third of June. We were in- 
vited to assist at the funeral services in the 
Armenian church. Many representatives of 
church and state were in attendance, and we 
found it difficult to secure a point of vantage 
from which we might witness the solemn 
and impressive ceremonies. The weird and 
plaintive chanting in the Greek tongue rings 
in my ears to this day. 

A most agreable trip may be taken by 
steamer to the suburban places along the 



92 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

shores of the Bosphorus. The vessel pursues 
a zig-zag course, touching now the European 
then the Asiatic side. The route is fringed 
with villages scattered along the waterside, 
and palaces, villas, picturesque gardens and 
ruined fortresses lend interest to the scenery. 
On the way the Tshiragan palace may be 
seen. It is closed firmly against all possible 
intruders and the uninitiated have never 
penetrated into its mysterious chambers. 
No one knows who lives behind those closely 
screened and curtained windows. Perhaps 
the deposed Sultan — if he be still in the land 
of the living and have not long since shared 
the bloody fate of Abdul Asis who in 1876 
was dispatched in a neighboring palace 
across the dark waters — may here be kept in 
confinement. The edifice is a noble one 
with an enormous frontage of twenty two 
hundred and fifty feet. A little further the 
Beglerbeg with its marble quay and land- 
ing steps rises from the waves. As we ap- 
proach the narrows, the surface of the sea, 
hitherto calm, loses its placidity, and a 
stream like current moves through the 
waters. At this point two once formidable 
forts stand watch over the city's harbor. 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 93 

Rnmili Hissar on the European and Anatoly 
Hissar on the Asiatic side. Even in their 
present state of disintegration and decay 
their appearance is stubbornbrowed and aw- 
ful. Seated upon a throne in the living 
rock, King Darius here witnessed the passage 
of seventy thousand of his warriors over an 
improvised bridge. Robert College one of 
the best known American institutions of 
learning in foreign lands overlooks this his- 
toric spot. Pushing still further up the 
Bosphorus past where a charming village 
displays its beauty in the sunlight, our boat 
pauses at Therapia where the foreign am- 
bassadors and representatives have princely 
homes. The steamer goes as far as the Black 
Sea, passing the war vessels of foreign na- 
tions which lie at anchor near the entrance 
to the Bosphorus, and, returning, takes "the 
same zig-zag course as before. 

At Haider Pasha, another suburb which 
claimed our attention, we saw the English 
cemetery where the slain of the Crimean 
war are buried. A stately shaft, flanked by 
four angels holding palm branches aloft, was 
erected in their honor by the personal liber- 
ality of Queen Victoria. This cemetery is 



94 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

also the resting place of several Americans 
who died in the Orient. 

Our last visit before leaving Constantin- 
ople for the Holy Land was to Kadikoeji or 
Chalcedon famous in Church history as the 
place of the general council in 451 at which 
the teachings of Nestorius and Eutyches 
were condemned. The church of St. Eu- 
phemia in which the historic assembly was 
held has since disappeared. The Christian 
Brothers have here a flourishing school at- 
tended by four hundered students. 

We prepared for our departure by secur- 
ing Turkish passports with which every 
traveller in the Sultan's dominions must 
be provided. The applications were en- 
dorsed at the American consulate and for- 
warded to the Foreign Office at Stamboul. 



^mmm 



FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO JAFFA. 

June 5th, the last day of our stay in Con- 
stantinople had arrived. Our minds were' 
so sated with varied impressions derived 
from the strange sights in this interesting 
and fascinating city, that we hailed with 
relief the prospect of a short respite from 
the hurry and activity of the past few days. 
In one regard only was my curiosity destined 
to remain ungratified. I had very much 
wished to see the ' 'howling derwishes of 
Scutari," but the day of our departure was 
that of their weekly ceremony, so we had 
either to postpone our sailing a week, or 
forgo the sight of the derwishes, and wisdom 
dictated the latter course. Our good friends 
at St. Greorge's were sorry to have us leave, 
and one of them went with us to the wharf. 
On the way thither the great piles of or- 
anges, pineapples, cherries and strawberries 
displayed in the market booths were so 
tempting that we each bought a basket of 
strawberries and cherries to take with us. 
After purchasing tickets at the office we 
(95) 



96 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

went on board the elegant steamer, Sag- 
halien, named for an island off the east coast 
of Asia which is a penal colony of Eussia. 
This boat belongs to the ''Messagerie Mari- 
time," a French line, with headquarters at 
Marseilles, whose vessels make weekly trips 
from their sunny home in Southern France 
to the various eastern ports of the Mediter- 
ranean. Our tickets for Bey rout which 
were second class, cost us two hundred and 
eighty francs. It may not be amiss to state 
here, for the benefit of any prospective trav- 
eller in the East, that for one who has some 
familiarity with the foreign languages and 
is therefore independant, it is poor policy to 
patronize the tourist companies. Under their 
direction the cost is considerably higher, and 
one is hampered and restricted by a fixed 
program. At the wharf Turkish police 
officials paraded up and down, while others 
were stationed near the steamer, so that no 
one should leave the city by this route with- 
out showing his Turkish passports. Ours 
which had been duly issued, signed and 
sealed the day before at Stamboul were 
found to be correct, so we mounted the 
ship's ladder and were shown by the steward 



FEOM CONSTANTINOPLE TO JAFFA. 97 

in attendance to our room. Here every thing 
was neat and fresh from the carpeted floor to 
the snowwhite linen which covered the beds. 
No one shared our cabin, which, as is usual 
on steamers, was arranged for four persons. 
The crowd of passengers was a mixed one. 
Turkish pashas with their wives and child- 
ren huddled in improvised harems upon the 
deck and guarded day and night by argus- 
eyed body servants ; a troop of French actors 
and actresses bound for Smyrna, a hard, 
boldlooking, illnatured set whose forward- 
ness earned for them many contemptuous 
remarks; some French Sisters of Charity 
destined for Nazareth ; several railroad en- 
gineers with their families on their way to 
Damascus, and an Anglican missionary with 
his wife and poodle going to Haifa. It was 
five o'clock when the ship's whistle gave the 
final signal for departure. As we steamed 
up the Bosphorus we had a last opportunity 
of beholding the majestic city in all her 
grandeur. Glradually she sank from sight, 
the last minarets disappearing behind the 
hills as we entered the Sea of Marmora. 
Farewell, proud city of Constantino. Though 
1 may never more feast my eyes with thy 



98 EUKOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

loveliness, thy beauty shall remain un- 
dimmed by time among the pleasures of 
memory ! 

The Sea of Marmora, the body of water 
lying between European and Asiatic Turkey, 
is one hundred and seventy-two miles long 
and fifty miles wide. It unites the Black 
Sea with the Mediterranean Archipelago by 
means of the Bosphorus in the north and 
the Dardanelles in the south. The shores 
present a picturesque aspect and are gener- 
ally bold and precipitous on the Asiatic 
side. Our passage on the Saghalien was 
certainly ideal. Above us was the clear 
azure of the sky, beneath us the deep ultra- 
marine blue of the water. During the day 
the rays of the sun were warded off by many 
yards of outstretched canvas, while at eve 
and through the night refreshing breezes 
blew. Never have I seen sky and water so 
beautiful and so fascinating as on this trip 
through the Dardanelles, or Hellespont, and 
the Archipelago. The service on board ship 
was all that could be desired, and the cuisine 
was excellent. 

The morning of June sixth, we passed 
through the Hellespont into the Archipelago, 



FEOM CONSTANTINOPLE TO JAFFA. 99 

the Aegean Sea of the ancients. What scenes 
from history and mythology this inde- 
scribably fair passage recalled ! Two formid- 
able fortifications, one on the European, the 
other on the Asiatic side, command the Dar- 
danelles at a point where the strait is only 
eight hundred yards wide, and may be 
closed by chains. Here Xerxes built his 
bridge uniting the two continents, here Alex- 
ander the Great crossed into Asia, and here 
also the Crescent was for the second time 
planted on European soil by Soliman in 
1357. Lord Byron and Lieutenant Ecken- 
head swam across the strait at this point on 
the third of March, 1810, covering the dis- 
tance in seventy minutes. 

The Turkish government formerly insisted 
that no foreign war vessel should pass the 
Dardanelles, and this claim was recognized 
by England, France and Russia, until, in 
November 1858, the United States frigate, 
Wabash, sailed through the straits and an- 
chored at Constantinople, the commanding 
officer maintaining that the United States, 
being party to no treaty, were not bound by 
any stipulations. At present there are no 
restrictions upon the navigation of the strait. 

:L.oFG. 



100 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

We made good progress for shortly after 
noon, a multitude of buildings with their 
minarets rose as it were out of the water. 
First the ruins on Mt. Pagos became visible, 
then sloping against the hillsides among 
stately cypress trees the Mohammedan and 
Jewish cemeteries might be seen, and finally 
spread out panoramalike in all her elegance 
and grace before the surprised eye of the 
beholder was the city of Smyrna, the fame 
of which is borne with her merchandise 
throughout the world. It was here that St. 
Polycai'p, the disciple of St. John the Evan- 
gelist, suffered martyrdom in the year 155. 
The general appearance of Smyrna is not 
unlike that of Naples. 

Our ship had scarcely lowered her an- 
chors at a respectable distance from the 
shore, when Turkish police officials boarded 
her. 

After half an hour's parley the signal was 
given to an impatiently waiting crowd of 
drivers, rowers, guides, hotel runners and 
peddlers. Never have I witnessed such 
pandemonium as when this helter skelter 
mob was turned loose. With wild shouts 
and deafening yells each tried to speed his 



FEOM CONSTANTINOPLE TO JAFFA. 101 

Kaik on so as to be first to reach the ship 
and fall upon the unsuspecting passengers as 
vultures bear down upon their prey. Like 
cats climbing trees so did these sunbrowned, 
darkskinned, vociferous fellows chmb with 
the aid of hands and toes, the ropes and 
chains to reach the deck. While yet a long 
way off they began to shout out the superior 
qualities and merits of their Kaiks, hotels or 
merchandise, and all this in a mixture of 
many languages. Fruit venders, tobacco 
and cigarette sellers, peddlers with large 
packs of varied contents so'on swarmed over 
the ship like bees over a clover field. From 
a secluded place on the upper deck my 
friend and I viewed this varicolored, an- 
imated spectacle with much curiosity and 
interest. The French actors and actresses 
left us here at Smyrna where they were ad- 
vertised to appear that night. — By way of 
new acquisitions, however, we took on board 
a motley crew of circus men and women and 
their horses and paraphanalia. These people 
were fortunately assigned to the steerage. 
By means of steam derricks the horses were 
hoisted upon deck that evening from flat- 
boats which lay alongside of our steamer. 



102 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

It was almost midnight before our ship pro- 
ceeded on her voyage. The city was ablaze 
with electric lights, and strains of music 
from theatres, ballrooms and public plat- 
forms floated over the silent waters, while 
the placid surface of the bay reflected the 
myriad stars from above. Of such a night- 
scene I. Zangwill has written the following 
description published in Lippincott's Ma- 
gazine : 

SMYRNA HARBOR. 

The stars stole over the sea, 

And the ghostly moon deepened to a silver 
crescent, 

And the crimson ardors of sunset died lingeringly 

In brooding haze of green and gold. 

And the hills faded into dimness and dream. 

And admidst the velvet darkness, 

And soft scented airs 

Of the spring night 

A myriad of gleams twinkled : 

The lights of the town answering the far sprin- 
kled heavens 

From as mysterious blackness. 

The shadowy shipping scintillating with points 
of fire 

That the dark water 

Gave back quivering. 

The lights on the terraced hills climbing to 
meet the stars, 

Till the far spreading night palpitated as with 
falliug stars 



FEOM CONSTANTINOPLE TO JAFFA. 103 

That had netted themselves in rigging 

And dipped themselves in ocean 

And found a home for their shining in the folds 

of the hills, 
And in the ship anchored in the quiet bay 
The sounds of chatter and scuffle, 
Of Greek songs and Arab prayers. 
Fell fainter and fainter, 
Till the last wakeful occupant of the swarming 

steerage 
Passed from the scene of his discomfort and his 

sorrows 
Into the silence and peace 
Of the many-twinkling night. 

During the succeeding night and day our 
boat treaded her meandering way through 
the many channeled Archipelago, past the 
islands of Chios, Kos, Leros and Patmos, 
where St. John lived and wrote. She was 
headed for the harbor of Samos on the island 
of that name, where we cast anchor at nine 
o'clock Saturday morning, June 8th, in 
the immediate neighborhood of a Turkish 
cruiser. The boats of the police and customs 
officers flying the crescent, at once pushed 
out from shore to meet us. They circled 
around the Saghalien during the six hours 
that we remained in port, and the move- 
ments of all on board were watched. The 
chief business here was the discharge of 



104 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

several hundred great, empty wine casks. 
The wine of Samos will not soon find its 
equal. This island contains two hundred 
and thirteen square miles, and has two 
mountain ranges traversing its interior. It 
is an independent principality under Turk- 
ish suzerainty. The prince of Samos, a 
member of the Greek family, Voldarides, 
pays an annual tribute of eighteen thousand 
dollars to the Sultan of Turkey. The few 
people who came aboard here were venders 
of Turkish tobacco and cigarettes, oranges 
and cherries. The tobacco is loosely done 
up in packages of from one to five pounds. 
That afternoon and the next day, Sunday, 
passed very quietely. We sighted but one 
steamer the whole day. 

The forward deck where the steerage pas- 
sengers congregated was the scene of great 
confusion, disorder and untidiness. To an 
American eye this is most unusual, but it 
accords with the manners and habits of the 
Orient. At night men, women and chidren 
might be seen stretched promiscuously upon 
the deck, on blankets, boxes or bundles. 
Some regaled themselves upon the contents 
of their ample provision sacks, others smoked 



FEOM CONSTANTINOPLE TO JAFFA. 105 

pipes or cigarettes. In one spot a group of 
Mohammedans lay muffled in their Khaftans 
while not far off some uncanny youngsters 
rolled noisily about the deck. Every inch 
of available space was occupied. Occasion- 
ally we picked our way through their midst 
but it was always at the risk of stepping on 
an outstretched arm or leg. The occupants 
of our deck harems had by this time lost 
some of their shyness, or was it that the 
vigilance of their lords and masters was 
somewhat relaxed on this occasion? Be that 
as it may, the women and girls frequently 
left their temporary homes behind curtains, 
carpets and mattings, and discarding their 
customary long veil ventured to show their 
sallow pallid features to the outside world. 
The proverbial beauty of the Orient was not 
exemplified in them, however, and all, old 
and young were habitual cigarette smokers. 
On June 10th, at eight o'clock in the 
morning, we arrived at Beyrout, a city of 
about one hundred thousand inhabitants, 
one third of whom are Moslems, the rest 
Christians and Jews. It is on a triangular 
promontory at the foot of Mt. Lebanon. 
The situation is singularly attractive and 



106 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

beautiful. Beyrout recalls the valor and her- 
oism displayed by the Crusaders on their 
march to the Holy Land. In 1110 this, the 
most important city of Syria, was captured 
by Baldwin I. who made it part of the king- 
dom of Jerusalem. It was captured again 
by Saladin, and retaken by the Crusaders 
in whose hands it remained until the over- 
throw of their power in 1291. The chief 
mosque of the city was originally a cathedral 
church built by Baldwin in 1118. Among the 
educational institutions the most important 
is the great St. Joseph's University con- 
ducted by the Jesuits, and attended by up- 
wards of seven hundred students. This uni- 
versity is without, a rival in the East. In 
connection with it are a printing office, paper 
factory and type foundry. Books in all 
the Oriental languages as well as daily and 
weekly papers and monthly magazines are 
printed. Another magnificent and pompous 
building, visible at a great distance and an 
institution popular with all classes is the 
university owned and conducted by theAmer- 
ican Board of Foreign Missions. Christian 
schools, hospitals and orphan asylums 
abound in Beyrout. The great Bazaar is 



FKOM CONSTANTINOPLE TO JAFFA. 107 

well worth a visit. It was iu Beyrout that 
we first saw the camel used as a beast of 
burden. The day was too oppressively warm 
to make walking agreeable, and fatigue soon 
overtook us. We then summoned a cab- 
driver and comfortably seated in his vehicle 
viewed the city, the old Roman ^ 'Felix Ju- 
lia," from end to end. We dined at a Ger- 
man hotel. The Germans at Beyrout are 
about two hundred and thirty in number, 
and are thriving and prosperous in the 
mercantile pursuits in which they are en- 
gaged. Our passports were again inspected 
at this point. They were viseed, signed and 
sealed by several officials, each of whom, of 
course, received a fee. These endorsements 
carried us safely, past the police and the 
customs inspector and allowed us to con- 
tinue our journey to Jaffa. We had our 
luggage transferred to the Portugal, a vessel 
of the same line, with which the Saghalien 
made connections at this point. The Tickets 
from Beyrout to Jaffa were thirty francs 
each, first class. Before leaving we had the 
privilege of seeing the Governor of Beyrout, 
pay a visit to our fellow passengers from 
Constantinople, the two lords of the deck 



108 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

harems, the Pashas of Jaffa and Jerusalem. 
The boat which brought the Grovernor to 
the Portugal was manned by twelve soldiers, 
was lined inside with red plush and flew the 
crescent. The greeting of the Turks is very 
ceremonious and cordial. They bow pro- 
foundly, almost touching the floor with their 
fingers. Then they bring their hands up to 
their foreheads, stroke their beards and cross 
the hands upon the breast. They go through 
with these maneuvres several times in rapid 
succession. We also witnessed this demon- 
stration at parting. Hitherto we had been 
the only Americans on board, but much to 
our surprise we that night encountered on 
the Portugal two others, a Franciscan from 
Paterson, New Jersey, a native of Philadel- 
phia, Father Alphons, and, Dr. E. Schutz, 
a German- American physician from Balti- 
more. The former had been sent by his 
superiors to Jerusalem as Custodian of the 
Holy Sepulchre, while the latter was in quest 
of health. We soon formed an offensive and 
defensive alliance which was faithfully ad- 
hered to during the succeeding days in the 
Holy Land. The Portugal surpassed the 
Saghalien in elegance and comfort, and ac- 
cepted only first class passengers. 



FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO JAFFA. 



109 



We retired to our cabins that niglit pre- 
pared to realize on the morrow the dream of 
our lives — to set foot on soil hallowed and 
consecrated by the footsteps of Christ. 




JAFFA. 

Early in the morning on Tuesday, the 
eleventh of June, everyone was astir aboard 
ship. Far in the distance, dimly outlined 
against the horizon, land was discernible. 
Field glasses were produced, and all were 
eager to catch the first glimpse of the Holy 
Land. At five o'clock the vessel dropped 
her anchor, but in the open sea, for the en- 
trance to the harbor at Jaffa is on6 of the 
most perilous in the world. Great rocks and 
coral reefs bar admittance and threaten the 
lives of the daring and venturesome. Lashed 
to fury, the foaming breakers madly dash 
against these formidable obstructions. The 
law of the land prohibits captains to land 
passengers unless the sea is calm. He must 
bide his time or weigh anchor and make for 
the next port. Notwithstanding these pre- 
cautions, steamers have been wrecked and 
a multitude of precious lives lost. We now 
understood the import of the Dutch saying 
"Na Jaffa gaan," as applied to a dangerous 
journey. Fortunately for us the sea was 
(110) 






-ij 



Jaffa. Ill 

now tranquil. Arabs soon swarmed on the 
decks eager to take us in tow. After the 
first rush had somewhat subsided, a young, 
refined looking Mohammedan offered his 
service. He had letters from Americans, 
for whom he had acted as dragoman, ex- 
pressing satisfaction with him as a guide 
and testifying to his honesty. Him we en- 
gaged, not only to row us through the peril- 
ous channel to the harbor, but also to pilot 
us during our tour in the Holy Land. 
Mustapha Houpta, for such was the name 
of our cicerone, was elated with his bargain. 
His frail Kaik, propelled by four swarthy 
natives, bore us safely through the maze of 
reefs and swirling waters, and at last we 
stood on the sacred soil of Palestine ! 

The city of Jaffa is built on terraces upon 
high cliffs which command an imperial view 
of the sea. The air is laden with fragrance 
wafted from grove and garden where vege- 
tation is most luxuriant and figs, apricots, 
oranges, citrons, pomegranates and dates 
are grown in abundance. Off to the east is 
a thriving Suabian colony, planted partly in 
the valley of Sharon which extends to the 
mountains of Judaea. 



112 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 



Jaffa is the ancient Joppe of the Bible. 
Tradition and general opinion have it that 
here Noah entered the ark, and eventually 
found his place of burial. From this place 
the Prophet Jonah was sent to Nineveh, but, 
disobeying the command of Grod, took ship 
for Tharsis. The cedars hewn on Lebanon, 
for the construction of Solomon's temple, 
were transported to Jerusalem by way of 
Joppe. Simon, the Maccabee "took Joppe 
for a haven, and made an entrance to the 
isles of the sea." (1 Mace. 14, 5.) When 
the men of Joppe had treacherously mur- 
dered the Jews by drowning them in the sea, 
Judas, the Maccabee burned their city and 
their boats, and slew them that escaped from 
the fire. (II. Mace. 12, 3.) The pages of 
the New Testament also make mention of 
Joppe, for the Apostle St. Peter here raised 
Tabitha from death to life again, (Acts, 9, 
40), and here remained in the house of 
Simon, the tanner by the seaside (Acts 9, 
43), In the twelfth century, Jaffa witnes- 
sed the glorious deeds of valor and intre- 
pidity of the crusaders, who reddened the 
sea with their blood. Old fortresses and 
crumbled walls still speak of this warlike 
period. 



JAFFA. 113 

After scaling the steps of the landing place 
which lead up to the street, we encountered 
another Turkish official , and again exhibited 
our passports. In the immediate vicinity 
of the landing is the Franciscan Hospice. 
Thither Mustapha conducted us. Soon we 
were hospitably received and made com- 
fortable by the good Franciscans. Brother 
Alfred seemed to take a special interest in 
the American visitors who had arrived so 
unexpectedly, for the season for travel in 
Palestine was already over. After he had 
satisfied himself as to our identity, we, in 
turn, began to question him, asking first 
what was his native land. To which he 
comically made answer, ''Be jabers, and 
don't ye know I am an Irishman!" Yes, 
a real genuine Irishman ministered to us 
here on the threshold of the Holy Land, 
as he had ministered for forty years to 
thousands of pilgrims from all parts of the 
Christian world. We drove through the 
city and surrounding country that morn- 
ing, visiting the house of Simon the Tan- 
ner, the burial place of Joseph of Arima- 
thea and the surrounding garden, the new 
Russian church, and other points of in- 



114 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

terest. The heat was stifling, and the roads 
rocky and very dusty. They were hedged 
in by hnes of tall cactus plants. 

The long latent desire of the Jews to re- 
gain national autonomy and establish them- 
selves once more in Palfestine has never 
been more active than at present. The race 
the world over, in Russia, Roumania, Ga- 
licia, the Balkan States, Italy, Spain and 
oven America, are roused to action, and 
cherish the hope that one day the plains, 
mountains and valleys of Judaea will again 
be peopled by the chosen, Israel come into 
his own, and the Jewish nation be estab- 
lished in the promised land. The longing 
of the Semitic race for rehabilitation, and 
for the regaining of national unity dates 
from the days when Titus razed Jerusa- 
lem. It existed at the time of the final 
dispersion in the sixth century. It was the 
dream of the abject, miserable Jews of the 
middle ages, and the ambition of the race 
when liberty dawned upon it in the Ipegin- 
ing of the nineteenth century. Today the 
dream is half materialized. For the first 
time in eighteen hundred years the hopes 
of a New Zion are in practical shape. The 



JAFFA. 115 

plans are being engineered by men of com- 
mon sense and financial power and ability. 
Let us see what progress has been made 
towards the ultimate realization of their de- 
sign. In 1854, Sir Moses Montefiore formed, 
with the permission of the Sultan, an agri- 
cultural colony near Safed which has pros- 
pered ever since. Others followed, and were 
fostered and aided by such financiers as 
Hirsch, Rothschild and Lachmann, so that 
today there are about five thousand Jew 
colonists in Palestine holding sixty-two 
thousand five hundred acres of land. These 
colonists annually increase, and the settle- 
ments are in flourishing condition, raising 
for export oranges, lemons, flowers for es- 
sential oils and wine. Burgundy, Sauterne, 
Cognac and the sweet wines are the kinds 
chiefly produced. Dr. Theo. Herzl created 
a great stir in Jewish circles by his pam- 
phlet "Der Juden Staat," issued in 1869, in 
which he strongly advocated the coloniza- 
tion of Palestine. A congress of influential 
Israelites convened at Basle in 1897 and 
placed the movement on a sound financial 
basis. The Jewish Colonial Trust with a 
capital of two million pounds was instituted. 



116 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

and, with the sanction of the Turkish gov- 
ernment, the colonization of Palestine is to 
be prosecuted in earnest. In France the 
Alliance Israelite Universelle pronounced 
the plan feasible and guaranteed its coopera- 
tion, and bodies in Grermany and Austria 
joined the movement. Years, of course, 
may pass, the present workers in the cause 
may not live to see their dream realized, 
the entire aspect of the movement as in- 
augurated may change, but yet it is not 
impossible that at some future time the 
Jews will re-occupy the Holy Land. 



FROM JAFFA TO JERUSALEM. 

The day of our arrival in Jaffa we dined 
at the Franciscan Hospice with a Portuguese 
Bishop from Cochin China, several clergy- 
men and some Belgian noblemen who had 
returned from Jerusalem and were about 
to embark on a Russian steamer which 
sailed that afternoon for Port ^aid. Our 
dragoman, Mustapha, having attended to 
tickets and luggage we were ready to leave 
for Judaea's ancient capital at two o'clock. 
The railroad, constructed in recent years, 
extends from Jaffa to Jerusalem, a distance 
of fifty miles or more, and so far is the 
only one built in Palestine. It is the in- 
tention of the company to prolong it to 
the Dead Sea and the Eiver Jordan. Only 
one train each way runs daily between the 
two cities, and on this train such a con- 
glomeration of passengers, such variety of 
costume and language! The coaches were 
rapidly filled with Turks, Bedouins, Fel- 
lahs, Jews, Italians, Spaniards, French, Grer- 
mans and Americans, and so closely were 
(117) 



118 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

they huddled together, that I preferred to 
ride on the platform during the greater part 
of the journey. The seats, long benches, 
ran lengthwise through the car, two in the 
middle and two on the sides, and were so 
placed that the passengers faced one an- 
other. Jaffa was soon left behind and we 
were passing through the fertile plains of 
Sharon where, just now, harvesting was in 
full progress. And a novel sight it was. 
The Fellahs (Bedouin farmers) drawn up 
in rows, sometimes to the number of twenty 
or thirty according to the size of the field, 
proceeded systematically to pull the grain 
stalks up with their hands, bundle them 
together in small sheaves and then cut them 
off at the roots by means of a small sickle. 
Before leaving the field at noon or even- 
ing the camel is brought into requisition. 
The beast is made to kneel and the grain is 
tied with ropes and chains to his sides and 
so brought to the threshing floor which is 
usually some hard clean spot near 'the own- 
er's house. A Fellah will, I dare say, put 
as big a load upon his camel as our Amer- 
ican farmer would put on a two horse farm 
wagon. The beast thus loaded, looks like 



FKOM JAFFA TO JEKUSALEM. 119 

a veritable moving grainstack. Threshing 
is accomplished by having camels or oxen 
tread out the grain, after which it is win- 
nowed by throwing it against the wind. 
Farm wagons are unknown, implements are 
rude and primitive and the cultivation of 
the soil careless and superficial. Quail seem 
to be plentiful, as large coveys were seen 
to alight at different times. Large herds 
of camels and black goats grazed in past- 
ures and on the mountain sides. I counted 
one hundred and fifty-four camels in one 
herd. The dwellings of the rural population 
are of mud, or unburnt brick, and are not 
unlike the adobe huts of Arizona and Mex- 
ico. They are only one story high and have 
but one apartment in which cattle may also 
be housed. The roofs are flat and formed 
of mud and straw laid upon branches of 
trees and on the rafters. The windows are 
small apertures, high up in the walls, and 
are sometimes grated with wood. There are 
no chimneys, but in the center of the roof 
is an opening to emit the smoke, the fire 
being built on the ground in the center of 
the room. In front of the house is an en- 
closure formed either by a thornhedge or 



120 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

a mud wall which serves to keep out an- 
imals, and to insure a certain amount of 
privacy. A marked characteristic of the 
people is their hospitality. The Prophet in- 
structs the traveller to steal a meal if he 
is not properly entertained, and ''show 
kindness to the stranger and to the son of 
the road," is one of the precepts of the 
Koran. This is generally carried out in 
Mohammedan countries and it is unusual 
for a Moslem to have to pay for his food 
when traveling. 

While I was riding on the platform and 
enjoying the varied scenery, a young man 
of modest mien with black whiskers and 
dressed in a cassock joined me. He proved 
to be a Maronite from Lebanon on his way 
to visit the Patriarch of Jerusalem for whom 
he had fetched from the mountain streams 
of his Syrian home a basket of fine fish. 
These he proudly displayed. The Maronites 
derive their name from the Abbot Maron 
who lived in the fourth century. Notwith- 
standing oftrepeated bloody persecution by 
the Turks, they have at all times heroic- 
ally preserved and openly professed the 
Catholic Christian faith. Their liturgy is 



FROM JAFFA TO JERUSALEM. 121 

in the Syriac language, but ordinarily they 
speak in the Arabian tongue. This young 
man drew from, his note book a photo- 
graph of himself and writing his name, 
Haroutun Monavian, beneath it, begged me 
to accept it as a remembrance. It still graces 
my album. • 

After passing several villages of mud huts, 
we arrived at the first stopping place of im- 
portance, Ramleh, a town of eight thousand 
inhabitants of whom one thousand are Christ- 
ians. Near by is the ancient Lydda where 
St. Peter healed Eneas, and where, in the 
twelfth century the crusaders raised a beau- 
tiful church in honor of St. George, the 
ruins of which are still extant. The country 
about Eamleh is strewn with the remains of 
ancient palaces, temples and dwellings. In 
the distance they appear like the scattered 
tombstones of great cemeteries. In fact, 
along the whole route until the mountain 
range is reached, the eye is met everywhere 
by the vestiges of departed glory, wealth 
and power. Kubah, Latrun, Bab-el- Wad, 
Wadi Ali are folorn way stations without 
the least attraction, where uncanny children 
sell water to the thirsty. The mountains of 



122 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

Judaea, through which our route lay, are 
bleaky, dreary, rocky and barren, devoid of 
forests or verdure. The only vegetation is 
stunted trees and brush with an occasional 
spare tufft of grass upon which the goats and 
camels browse. Nearer and nearer we came 
to our goal. To the left, hedged in by 
mountains, opens the Therebinthian valley, 
where David slew Groliath. The bed of the 
brook whence the youthful champion chose 
the pebble stones was dry, as were the other 
water courses about Jerusalem. As the after- 
noon wore on,a feeling of feverish expectancy 
came over the crowd of travellers, most of 
whom were peering through the car- windows, 
trying with strained eyes and craned necks 
to catch a first glimpse of the city of David. 
The train rounded a curve, and before us 
loomed the new Russian church on the 
Mount of Olives, the ancient tower of David, 
the black frowning walls of the city, the 
cupola of the church of the Holy Sepulchre, 
and a multitude of spires, minarets and 
houses. At twenty minutes of six the train 
stopped at the station, and with eagerness 
and joy we alighted. At last we were in 
Jerusalem ! 




JERUSALEM FROIV 



•^^JS, 



— ■- - ^" .— — ^""S^-^X 









' fti^ 



"■'"Si. "■ i-^ 




HE SOUTH EAST. 



JERUSALEM. 

What emotions and memories take pos- 
session of the Christian heart at the men- 
tion of Jerusalem. From the tender days 
of infancy this name with its train of hal- 
lowed recollections is familiar to us all, and 
yet the singular privilege of visiting that 
city, of entering her holy precincts, sojourn- 
ing within her sacred enclosure, kneeling to 
pray on those ever memorable spots where 
the God-man, the Incarnate Word of the 
Father suffered, bled and died for the re- 
demption of a sinladen world, expiating the 
fault of man and re-opening heaven's por- 
tals, — such rare privilege is granted to but 
few. Never can I fully appreciate, or be 
sufficiently grateful for this signal favor, 
which I, all unworthy, was now about to 
enjoy. 

Leaving the train, we engaged a cab- 
driver to convey us to our lodging. Aside 
from the numerous spacious and preten- 
tious hotels under foreign management, the 
stranger in Jerusalem finds national hospices 
(123) 



124 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

where he meets at all times with kindly 
treatment and where ho may stop at con- 
siderably less expense. 

The Knights Templar, Knights of St. 
John, the Russians, French, Italians, Grer- 
mans, all have such hospices in successful 
operation. In them the pilgrim from dis- 
tant lands is made to feel at home. His 
needs are attended to, information and 
guides supplied, and letters and news from 
home await his arrival. With feelings of 
great relief does the visitor cross the thres- 
holds of these havens of rest which he ever- 
more bears in grateful remembrance. Dur- 
ing our week's stay in the Holy City, we 
were the guests of P. Schmidt, the superior 
of the Grerman hospice, a venerable, im- 
posing old man, " of commandiDg figure, 
who at the time of the visit of the Grerman 
Emperor and Empress, was decorated with 
the Imperial Order of the Crown, in rec- 
ognition of the faithful services rendered 
his countrymen during his stay of more 
than forty years in Palestine. This good 
man, of portly bearing and suave disposi- 
tion, with kindly eye and flowing beard, 
rises before my mental vision when far dis- 



JERUSALEM. 125 

tant Judaea occupies my thoughts. His 
Dame is ever linked in memory with our 
stay in Jerusalem. To him and his two 
fellow workers, to the kind sisters and the 
faithful Arab servant, Hassan^ Salaam! 

The primitive name of Jerusalem seems to 
have been Jebus, or, poetically, Salem, and 
its king, in the time of Abraham was Melchi- 
sedech. At the time of the conquest of 
Canaan by the Hebrews, the tribe of Judah 
took the city and burned it, bat the strong- 
hold probably remained in the hands of the 
Jebusites for many years afterwards. Its 
situation among the mountains, almost in 
the heart of his kingdom, naturally excited 
in David a desire to possess it. In the ninth 
year of his reign he stormed the stronghold 
of the Jebusites, ZiOn, called it the city of 
David and made the place the capital of his 
kingdom. (1046, b. c.) Since that time it 
has been called Jerusalem. Under Solomon 
the temple was built on Mount Moiiah. 
Under the kings of Judah Jerusalem suffered 
a series of vicissitudes, being captured and 
re-captured, besieged, burned and destroyed. 
In 586, B. c, Nebuchadnezzar demolished 
the walls and principal buildings, and car- 



126 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

ried captive to Babylon all except the 
poorest inhabitants. At this time we hear 
the lamentations of the Prophet Jeremiah, 
weeping and mourning over the destruction 
and misfortune of Jerusalem. Nehemiah re- 
built the walls on the ruins of the old city. 
From this period until the Macedonian in- 
vasion in 332, B. 0., Jerusalem enjoyed com- 
parative peace. In 63, b. c, the city was 
captured by Pompey, the walls demolished 
and thousands of the inhabitants slain. 
Herod, being appointed king seized the city 
in 37, B. c, and the massacre on that occa- 
sion was as bloody as that under Pompey. 
Herod, however, erected and beautified the 
fortress of Antonia, improved and enlarged 
the city, and rebuilt the temple on a more 
magnificent scale than that of Solomon. 
Jerusalem appears to have reached at this 
period the zenith of her power and im- 
portance. Then was the ''fulness of time," 
around which all history groups itself, which 
saw the birth, life and death of the Saviour. 
About the year 66^ a. d., the Jews, goaded 
to despair by the tyranny of the Romans, re- 
volted, took possession of Jerusalem and 
defeated a Roman army sent by Cestius 



JEEUSALEM. 127 

G-allus, governor of Syria. This was the be- 
ginning of the disastrous war which ended 
in the complete destruction of Jerusalem. 
In the year 70, Titus took the city after a 
long and vigorous siege, and his soldiery, 
maddened by the obstinate resistance of the 
defenders, their own fruitless efforts and 
great losses, spared neither age nor sex. 
Titus himself was unable to control the fury 
of his troops, and saw with regret the walls 
levelled, the temple given to the flames and 
the principal towers, which he had intended 
to preserve as memorials of his victory, 
demolished. Mount Moriah was literally 
plowed over. ('-Not a stone shall remain 
upon a stone.") According to Josephus one 
million, one hundred thousand Jews perish- 
ed in this siege, and ninety-seven thousand 
were carried into captivity. Tacitus placed 
the number of the slain much lower as the 
estimated population was only six hundred 
thousand. Under the emperor Hadrian the 
city was rebuilt. At the time of the accession 
of Constantine, Jerusalem had already be- 
come the place of pilgrimage for Christians. 
This emperor erected over the sepulchre of 
Christ a beautiful church, which was, how- 



128 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

ever, burned in 614 together with the greater 
part of the city, by Chosroes of Persia. Syria 
with Palestine and Jerusalem afterwards 
passed into the hands of the Turks. The 
cruelties which the Christians suffered at 
their hands roused the indignation of Eu- 
rope, and the chivalry of Grermany, France 
and England were led by Grodfrey de Bouil- 
lon and others to the recovery of the Holy 
Sepulchre from the infidels. Jerusalem was 
stormed and taken on July 15th, 1099. 
Godfrey was elected ruler of Jerusalem, and 
his brother succeeding him took the title of 
king. After this the city was repeatedly 
taken and retaken by Christians and Turks, 
until, in 1517, Palestine was conquered by 
Sultan Selim I., and since that time Jerusa- 
lem has been under the rule of the Ottoman 
Empire. Such, in brief is the history of 
that city, where the whole Christian world 
loves in spirit to dwell, especially on Good 
Friday and Easter Sunday. 

The ancient site of the city, enclosed by 
a continuous wall thirty-eight feet high, 
strengthened by thirty-four towers which 
cut it out in diamond shape, is small, cover- 
ing about half a section of land. The roofs 



JERUSALEM. 129 

of the houses are flat with small cemented 
cupolas. There are no chimneys or win- 
dows, but, instead of the latter, small barred 
apertures. Many of the rooms look like 
vaulted caves, floored, walled and ceiled with 
stone, and those which open on the street 
are of this character. There are no side 
walks and the shops are vaulted holes in the 
walls. The streets are winding and narrow 
and remind of the Eoman catacombs. They 
look like long tunnels. 

A dense population inhabits Jerusalem 
estimated at fifty thousand, thirty thousand 
being Mohammedans. They pack and crowd 
the narrow thoroughfares, through which no 
carriage or vehicle can pass. In and about 
the city heaps of debris, tumbled down 
houses, disorder, dirt and uncleanliness are 
everywhere to be seen. Were it not for its 
hallowed and sacred associations vnth the 
life and death of Christ, few people would 
care to take the long journey thither, and to 
me, the place would seem the most desolate, 
dreary and lonely in existence. The people 
derive their chief support from the caravans, 
pilgrimages and tourists who come here from 
the ends of the earth. Modern, like ancient 



130 EUEOPEj THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

Jerusalem covers about two miles square. 
Its altitude is some two thousand feet above 
the Mediterranean. The distances in the 
Judaean province are insignificant. Thus 
from Jerusalem to Bethlehem is eight miles, 
to the Dead Sea about twenty-five, to Da- 
mascus, a hundred and thirty-five and to the 
Mediterranean, forty. In one of our fast 
trains you could traverse the Holy Land 
from end to end in a few hours. There are 
at present in the city walls, five gates that 
are open. Two of these are on the south, 
and one near the center of each of the other 
walls. To the west is the Jaffa gate, the 
chief entrance to the city ; on the north the 
Damascus gate; on the east St. Stephen's 
gate, called by the Mohammedans Bab-el- 
Asbat, Gate of the Tribe, and on the south, 
Zion gate and another obscure portal, the 
Dung gate. The Grolden Grate on the east 
side is now walled up and, against it a tower 
has been built, where a Mohammedan is con- 
stantly on guard, for the Jews have a tradi- 
tion that their deliverers will some day enter 
by this gate and restore to them the city 
with all her ancient greatness and glory. 
When the visit of the German Emperor to 



JEEU SALEM. 131 

Palestine was in contemplation, the Turkish 
government was approached with a view to 
obtaining permission to open the Golden 
Grate that through it the Emperor might 
enter Jerusalem. The request was politely 
refused. This ^ 'Porta Aurea" is a magnifi- 
cent double gateway with finely sculptured 
arches. At this point, tradition has it. Our 
Lord made his entry into the city on Palm 
Sunday. The gate opens upon the site of 
the court yard of the ancient temple on Mt. 
Moriah, where now stands the great Omar 
mosque. To the west, at the Jaffa gate, is 
the citadel, consisting of three high square 
towers, separated from the city by a low 
wall, and from the suburbs by a deep and 
wide moat. The highest of these three 
towers is called the Tower of David. The 
lower part, rising in a solid mass, is prob- 
ably a remnant of the tower of Hippicus 
built by Herod. From the battlements is 
obtained a view of the whole city, the Mount 
of Olives, the Dead Sea and the mountains 
of Moab beyond. To the north-east lies the 
pool of Hezekiah, to the south, the garden 
of the Armenian convent and to the west 
the Jewish alms house built by Sir Moses 



132 EUKOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

Montefiore. The tomb of David south of 
the Zion gate is preserved by the Moham- 
medans who have built a mosque over the 
spot and who rigidly exclude all strangers 
from its precincts. It is said that over the 
cave a small room is built with a structure 
about three feet high representing a Moslem 
tomb and covered with green cloth. This 
marks the spot under which the body of 
David is thought to lie. At the foot of 
Mount Moriah, outside the walls, are the 
valleys of Hinnom or Gihon, and Josaphat 
through which flows the brook Kedron. The 
course was dry where we crossed it. When 
mention is made of Mount Moriah, the 
Mount of Olives and Calvary, let not the 
reader imagine lofty peaks visible at a great 
distance, and, perhaf)s, covered with eternal 
snows. No, they are simply hills or slight 
elevations with gradual slopes. 

Having prefaced these remarks on Jeru- 
salem's history and topography, we will 
enter the city and visit her most important 
shrines and sanctuaries, among which the 
church of the Holy Sepulchre is pre-eminent. 

To enter this church, the most sacred 
structure in the world, which the Christian 




CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE, JERUSALEM. 



JERUSALEM. 133 

approaches with reverence and with awe, we 
first traverse the court and the vestibule, a 
spacious hall where Turkish poUce, soldiery 
and guides squat upon a stone bench, smok- 
ing, drinking coffee and conversing upon 
the topics of the day. Their appearance is 
little in accord with the thoughts and senti- 
ments which crowd upon our minds at this 
moment, and we pass them silently by, and 
step within the great basilica which encloses 
the tomb of Christ and Calvary's hill with 
the place of the crucifixion. The mother of 
Constantine the Great, St. Helen the Em- 
press, caused the first church to be built here 
in 335. It was destroyed by the conquering 
Persians under Chosroes II. in 614. The 
subsequent structure, erected by the strenu- 
ous efforts of the Abbot Modestus, stood 
until 1010 when it also fell before the in- 
roads of the vandalizing hordes of the Khalif 
of Egypt. The present basilica rests on 
foundation walls built by the Crusaders in 
1165, but the superb edifice erected by them 
soon met, like its predecessors, with a dis- 
astrous fate. 

The church which today enshrines the 
Holy Sepulchre was only completed in the 



134 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

beginning of the last century by tbe united 
exertions of the Eussians and the French. 
The portal through which we enter is a 
double gateway with marble and granite 
columns supporting richly sculptured archi- 
traves, on which is represented Christ's tri- 
umphant entry into Jerusalem. Over these 
are finely carved arches. The first object to 
draw the attention is a large polished slab 
of stone in the floor near the entrance. 
This is the stone of unction, covering the 
spot on which the Body of Our Lord was 
annointed and prepared for burial. 

In this connection I must mention a beau- 
tiful custom very generally practised. I 
mean that of placing the garment for the 
dead, the shroud, upon this stone in pre- 
paration for its final use. It bears printed 
upon it the outlines of the Body of the 
Saviour. Many pilgrims observe this cus- 
tom, and bear with them on their return 
journey a long white linen shroud which 
they have placed on that very spot where 
the Body of Jesus was embalmed before 
being laid in the tomb. 

In the center of the rotunda beneath the 
lofty cupola, is the Holy Sepulchre, in a 



JEKUSALEM. 135 

chapel twenty-six feet long and eighteen 
feet wide, built of polished limestone, and 
surmounted by a dome of Russian architec- 
ture. The facade is ornamented with marble 
and limestone columns. Here are burning 
many lamps of gold and silver. The first 
chamber, eleven feet by nine, is the ''Chapel 
of the Angel" where the Angel sat on the 
stone after it had been rolled away from the 
tomb on the morning of the Eesurrection. 
In the center of this chapel resting on a 
pedestal is a fragment of this stone, while 
the other part we saw beneath the altar in 
the Armenian convent church of Caiphas. 
In the second chapel which is entered by a 
low narrow doorway is the tomb of Christ, 
extending the whole length and nearly half 
the width of the apartment. It is raised 
about two feet from the floor and covered 
with a single slab of marble, the edges of 
which are worn smooth by the devout kisses 
of pilgrims, who for centuries have come 
hither from every quarter of the globe. 
Suspended from the ceiling are a number 
of costly lamps and chandeliers which burn 
the year round. Both apartments are al- 
ways filled with pious worshippers. 



136 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

Leaving the Holy Sepulchre and turning 
towards the north, we stand upon the spot 
where our Lord appeared to Mary Magda- 
len after his resurrection. The Franciscan 
part of the church, which we now enter, 
harbors part of the pillar where Christ was 
bound and scourged in the courtyard of 
Pilate. The Franciscans have for centuries 
been established near the Holy Sepulchre, 
and are for that reason called its faithful 
custodians. In connection with their mon- 
astery, the good monks, our Philadelphia 
friend. Father Alphons, 0. F. M,, among 
them, have soup kitchens and a dispensary 
for the poor. But let us return to our 
description of the church. In the sacristy 
we were permitted to handle the sword of 
Godfrey de Bouillon, which is still used by 
the Patriarch in conferring knighthood. 
Proceeding eastward we came to a dark, 
sombre looking Grreek chapel. This is the 
^ ^Prison of Christ," where he was detained 
while preparations were being made for the 
crucifixion. To the south, enclosed by mas- 
sive walls, is Calvary or Golgatha, where 
Christ died for the sins of the world. Here 
is the most sacred shrine in the universe. 



JEKUSALEM. 137 

The chapel here erected is rather low and 
vaulted. Four small altars range along 
its eastern wall. The light shines dimly 
through the stained glass of the windows, 
and a solemn silence prevails. It is reached 
by a flight of eighteen marble steps. Here 
stood the cross with its innocent victim sus- 
pended upon it. A round aperture encased 
with gilded metal marks the spot. Near 
by, but south of it, is a deep crevice in the 
solid rock, wide enough to admit a man's 
arm. The place where the Body was nailed 
to the cross, and where, afterwards, it was 
laid in the arms of the Sorrowful Mother 
are a few feet away. 

The fifteenth of June is a date never to 
be effaced from our memories, for on that 
day my friend and I were privileged to cel- 
ebrate mass upon the Hill of Calvary. From 
the place of the cross we go down another 
flight of stairs to St. Helen's church. Near 
the site of the church, in a cave, the cross, 
the crown of thorns, the nails and the in- 
scription were discovered. 

One may pertinently ask, how, after the 
lapse of three hundred and twenty-six years, 
the identity of the true cross could be estab- 



138 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

lished. In the cave spoken of above three 
crosses were brought to light, but there was 
nothing to distinguish the true cross from the 
other two. The title, which was discovered 
at the same time, lay too far away to be 
of any use for purposes of identification. 
Macarius, then Bishop of Jerusalem, had 
the three crosses carried to the bed of a 
sick woman whose life was despaired of. 
At the touch of the third, she arose com- 
pletely cured. According to some author- 
ities among whom is the historian Socrates, 
the touch of the sacred wood raised a dead 
man to life. Other evidence was found in 
the fact that the nail holes in the upper 
portion of the cross correspond exactly with 
those in the inscription board which had 
been fastened there. 

In the quadrangular church of the Greeks, 
which faces the chapel over the Holy Sepul- 
chre, and occupies the main part of the 
basilica, is a small column which indicates 
the center of the earth. All the holy places 
I have described are located beneath one 
great dome, that of the Church of the Holy 
Sepulchre, and it is only with the "gracious 
permission of the Mohammedan Turk" — ^ 



JEKUSALEM. 139 

stain and stigma on the fair garb of 
Christianity — that people of all religious 
rites come to worship. 

Having lingered over those holy places 
which must ever be for the Christian the 
most sacred and the most dear in all the 
world, we turned our attention to a very 
different object. The Omar Mosque is built 
on the site of Solomon's temple on Mount 
Moriah, a spot of great historic interest as- 
sociated with events of Bible history. The 
Moslems look upon this great shrine as 
equal in importance to Medina and Mecca. 
Permission to visit the Omar Mosque is not 
easily obtained. We were obliged to file ap- 
plications several days beforehand through 
the American consulate, whence they were 
taken by the dragoman to government head- 
quarters. A certain hour was specified when 
we were to hold ourselves in readiness. At 
the time set we were waiting at the Damas- 
cus gate for the official without whom no 
one is permitted to enter even the outer 
courtyard of these sacred Mohammedan pre- 
cincts. This official is, moreover, accom- 
panied by a guard of one soldier, and both 
are in uniform. Until about half a century 



140 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

ago the Turks inflicted capital punishment 
upon any Christian who dared to enter the 
"Haram-es-sherif," the enclosed area upon 
which the temple is built. We waited half 
an hour or more for the special Kawasse and 
guard, observing meantime the efforts of a 
camel which was groaning pitifully under a 
heavy burden and was unable to get to its 
feet. At last our conductor appeared, and, 
passing a number of Mohammedans who 
had just filed out of the Mosque and were 
now lined up in the street reciting prayers 
from the Koran after setting their faces to- 
wards Mecca and falling three times to the 
ground to reverently kiss the soil, we were 
ushered through the southern gate called 
Bab-es-silsele, which opens upon the court- 
yard. Here a group of marble columns held 
in place by iron rods and rivets are seen. 
They are the remains of a beautiful fountain, 
and, together with some broken marble slabs 
they tell of the perished greatness of the 
time of the Crusaders. 

To the notable spot where we now stood, 
Abraham directed his steps, prepared, in 
obedience to the voice of Grod, to immolate 
Isaac, his son (Glen. 22, 2). David came 



JEEUSALEM. 141 

into possession of it by purchase, and erected 
thereon an altar, and offered sacrifice to the 
Lord. Under the name ^'Zion" there is 
also mention of the place of the temple as 
in Ps. 47, 3, Isaiah 2, 3. King David con- 
ceived the idea of erecting a temple on this 
eminence, and this was carried into effect 
by his son Solomon, 1012, b. c. There is 
no longer any trace of the ancient temple, 
though it is probable that much stone and 
building material taken from its ruins were 
used in the construction of the massive walls 
which now enclose the Haram. Standing 
upon the broad area surrounding the mos- 
que, our thoughts went back to the days of 
Our Lord's life on earth and to his visits to 
his Father's House when he crossed this 
very spot. 

The hill is now covered with greensward 
and planted sparingly with olive and cypress 
trees, and is still the fairest feature of the 
city. On a rectangular platform stands the 
renowned Omar Mosque, Kubbet-es-sakhra, 
''Dome of the Eock." The building is an 
octagon, each side of which measures sixty- 
seven feet. It is surmounted by a light and 
graceful dome on the top of which is a cres- 



142 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

cent. The exterior of the walls are covered 
with tiles of white, blue and yellow glazed 
porcelain, decorated with arabesque patterns 
and inscriptions. Four doors lead to the 
interior, which is about one hundred and 
fifty feet in diameter. A corridor, thirteen 
feet wide runs around the walls, having on 
its inner side eight piers and sixteen granite 
and marble pillars. Within these is another 
corridor, thirty feet wide with twelve large 
columns and four great piers which together 
support the dome. Under this dome, sur- 
rounded by an iron enclosure is the gigantic 
rock on which the Jewish altar of sacrifice 
stood. Beneath the rock is a cave which is 
reached on the southeast by a flight of stairs. 
Here the mosque sheik points out the altars 
of Solomon, David and Abraham. 

In the center of the mosque is a circular 
slab of marble, which on being stamped 
upon gives forth a hollow sound. The Mo- 
hammedans call this the ''well of souls," 
and say that the spirits of the departed as- 
semble here twice a week to pray. There is 
also a legend which the sheik will not fail 
to emphasize, to the effect that Mohammed 
on his midnight flight to heaven, alighted 



JEKU SALEM. l43 

upon this rock from which he continued his 
journey. The rock raised itself to follow, 
but was prevented by the staying hand of 
the angel Gabriel. The rock remained sus- 
pended in midair and upon it, in bold out- 
line is a giant hand which is pointed out as 
the imprint of the hand of Gabriel. We 
discovered a small metal plate fastened to 
the side of the rock, and were told that some 
hairs from the prophet's beard were kept 
there. We had, as usual, been required to 
change our shoes for the customary slippers 
before entering the mosque. 

Most wonderfully stained windows which 
exhibit the greatest artistic skill and inge- 
nuity, and are quite unequaled the world 
over, dimly light the superb temple. Near 
the entrance stands a lofty pavillion called 
David's Judgment Seat and the Dome of the 
Chain. The first name indicates that David 
and Solomon sat in judgment on that seat,' 
and the second refers to a chain which is 
suspended from the ceiling and which, it is 
said, will adhere to the hand of a perjurer. 
TheKubbet-es-Sakhra, or Dome of the Rock 
as the Omar Mosque is called by the Turks, 
was built by Kalif Abd-el-Milik and his son 



144 EUKOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

Walid during the years 685 — 705, and hence 
is wrongly atcribnted to Omar. This build- 
ing is the very culmination of Mohammedan 
architecture, surpassing in the brilliancy of 
conception and the perfect manner of its 
execution anything that was ever designed 
by Islam. Critics pronounce the interior or- 
namentation to be of unrivalled beauty. 

About four hundred and fifty feet south 
of the Sakhra, in the south western part of 
the Haram is the Aksa mosque, a gorgeous 
temple of seven aisles, two hundred and 
seventy-two feet long and one hundred and 
eighty-four feet wide. It was originally con- 
structed under the Emperor Justinian in 
531 — 534, but in course of centuries it has 
been greatly altered, enlarged and partly re- 
built. In the rear of the mosque are two 
columns peculiarly placed side by side, a 
small space intervening. It would have re- 
quired considerable squeezing for a lean 
man to get through. In answer to our in- 
quiries our rather corpulent sheik solemnly 
declared that the man who could not pass 
through that narrow space would be forever 
excluded from joining the Prophet in Para- 
dise. I have wondered ever since if our 



JEKUSALEM. 145 

guide would ever enjoy the company of liis 
master in the hereafter. West of this curi- 
osity and opening upon the limits of the 
Haram we saw a barred and grated window 
to which innumerable bits of twine, rope and 
rags had been attached by Mohammedan 
worshipers. In case of sickness a piece is 
taken away and burned, the smoke being 
inhaled by the patient in the hope of thus 
effecting a cure of the malady. 

Between this ancient St. Mary's basilica 
and the east wall of the enclosure, not far 
from the Golden Grate are extensive sub- 
terranean vaults called the Stables of So- 
lomon. They are two hundred feet long 
and one hundred feet wide and are reached 
by a descent of eighteen steps. Twelve 
rows of immense columns, each twenty-five 
feet high support the roof. History tells us 
that Mount Moriah was considerably en- 
larged by Solomon and also by Herod. These 
subterranean structures probably served as 
props and supports. They are called stables 
from the fact that the Crusaders used them 
for stabling their horses, as there are many 
indications, such as troughs etc., to prove. 
How far these passages extend is not known, 



l46 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPf . 

as only the part I have described is acces- 
sible. 

Standing in the open courtyard near the 
Grolden Grate, we obtained a wonderful view 
of the valleys of Hinnom and Josaphat with 
Kedron below, the Mount of Olives, Be- 
thany and farther to the front the road 
leading to Jericho. Our visit having now 
lasted about two hours, and our official and 
his military escort showing signs of im- 
patience, we each gave them the looked for 
bakshish and bid the Haram with its' won- 
derful scenes a lasting farewell. 

We visited the bazaar in Jerusalem, but 
found it anything but attractive. Its streets 
are so narrow and winding, so obstructed 
by booths and shops, throngs of people and 
burros and camels laden with merchandise, 
as to make the passage of the pedestrian 
extremely difficult. Passing through these 
busy quarters we come to a densely peopled 
labyrinth of alleys and passage ways where 
the air is impregnated with nauseous odors 
emanating from foul caves, musty corners, 
houses and shops, where a sunbeam never 
penetrates, where squalor and filth reign 
supreme, where the blessings of broom. 



JERUSALEM. 147 

scrubbing brush, soap and water has never 
been experienced, and where poisonous ex- 
halations breed disease and death. This is 
the Jewish quarter. The inhabitants live in 
abject poverty and destitution often lacking 
the wherewith to cover their nakedness 
or still the cravings of hunger. They are 
separated into two classes, the Sephardim, 
who have goodlooking profiles of the Span- 
ish-Portuguese type, and the Ashkenazim, 
of pronounced Semitic physiognomy like 
that of the German and Slavic Jews. Each 
sect has its synagogues, schools and hos- 
pitals, conducted according to the teachings 
of the Talmud. The attire of the Polish 
and Eussian Jews is most remarkable. In 
the midst of the oppressive heat of summer 
we saw them dressed in long flowing coats 
and mantles of heavy cloth, fur caps and 
ringlets or curls of hair hanging down like 
pendants over their temples, one long curl 
on each side. Many aged Jews leave their 
native lands in Europe in order to die on 
the sacred soil of their forefathers. Others 
are attracted by the rich endowments and 
generous aid of the wealthy philanthropists 
of their race, but almost all live in com- 



148 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

parative distress and want. At the sight of 
the conditions prevaihng here, the heart of 
many an anti-Semite is softened by pity and 
sympathy, especially if he witness on a Fri- 
day afternoon the lamentations of the Jews 
at the remnant of the temple wall which 
stands at the eastern end of the Jewish 
quarter, and which is known as the "wailing 
place." Men, women and children, rich 
and poor, young and old, press their tear- 
stained faces against the cold blocks of the 
quarry. They kiss and embrace them, giv- 
ing vent to their feelings in pra3"ers and 
tears. Loudly they call upon Jehovah to 
restore to them the patrimony of their 
fathers in all its ancient power and glory. 
Their frames shake, they wring their hands 
as if in utter despair. They tear their hair 
and rend their garments, breaking into a 
flood of tears, sobbing and crying as they 
recite a litany of lamentations that would 
soften the flinty bosom of the most obdurate 
and prejudiced observer. We were deeply 
touched and impressed by the zeal, earnest- 
ness and sincerity of the wailing Jews at 
the temple wall. Such intense and heart- 
rending sorrow can only be compared to 



JEEUSALEM. 149 

the grief which at some time in our lives 
most of us have witnessed or perhaps shared 
at the bedside of the dying. 

In 1869, on the occasion of the visit of the 
Crown Prince (the late Emperor Frederic) 
to Jerusalem, a valuable piece of property 
was presented by the Sultan to the German 
government. It is the Muristan, or Hos- 
pital Place, an area of four hundred and 
eighty by four hundred and twenty feet, 
(covered at the time of its presentation with 
vast piles of debris. Oh this spot the first 
settlement by the West was undertaken in 
the time of Charlemagne. The German gov- 
ernment at once prepared to clear the Mur- 
istan and set it apart as the site of the 
Church of the Redeemer, a handsome and 
noble edifice erected in 1894, the expense 
being defrayed by the voluntary contribu- 
tions of German Protestants. The day of 
the solemn dedication of the church will ever 
be a red-letter day in the history of Protes- 
tantism in Judaea. In the fall of 1898 a 
splendid royal cavalcade, such as had never 
been witnessed within the memory of the 
oldest inhabitant, entered Zion's portals. 
The Emperor and Empress of Germany ac- 



150 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

companied by a numerous suite, distin- 
guished representatives of the army, navy 
and civil service and an escort of soldiers 
and marines arrived to dedicate the lately 
completed church of the Redeemer. Turk, 
Jew and Christian alike acclaimed the arrival 
of the august pilgrims with sincere expres- 
sion of joyous welcome. Even three years 
later we found that a favorite topic of con- 
versation among Mohammedans, Jews and 
Christians was the brilliancy of the German 
military pageant on the occasion of the Em- 
peror's entry into Jerusalem. The church 
together with the hospice and pastor's re- 
sidence reflects great credit upon its pro- 
jectors, royal protectors and generous sup- 
porters. Both the Emperor and Empress 
presented to the church velvet bound Bibles 
appropriately inscribed which the sexton 
shows to visitors. This church, though 
symetrical and elegant in form, has one 
great fault which seems to be irremediable. 
The acoustics are imperfect. Various meth- 
ods for overcoming this defect have been 
devised and tried, but, so far, without effect. 
Large fine wire nets intended to break the 
sound of the voice have been hung in the 



JEEUSALEM. 151 

edifice without producing any practical re- 
sults. In all probability this serious defect 
will never be rectified. 

As the Sublime Porte had showed its ap- 
preciation of the Prince's visit to Jerusalem 
in 1868, the Sultan also recognized the im- 
portance of the Emperor's pilgrimage to the 
holy places in 1898. As a token of this 
recognition another gift was tendered by 
Abdul Hamid. This was the ''Dormitio," 
a small strip of ground in Jerusalem where 
the death of the Blessed Virgin took place. 
From the earliest dawn of Christianity a 
basilica had been built over this spot, but, in 
the course of centuries, it had disappeared. 
The holy place was gratefully accepted by 
the monarch who presented it to his Cath- 
olic subjects. They could not have received 
a more welcome gift. At present, under the 
auspices of the Palestina Verein of Cologne, 
funds are being gathered by public subscrip- 
tion for the purpose of erecting another 
beautiful church upon this precious ground. 
Work on the edifice will be begun this 
spring and it will be pushed with vigor to a 
speedy completion. 

It must be borne in mind that the original 



152 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

level of Jerusalem is many feet below that 
of the present day. In the course of nine- 
teen centuries vast accumulations of debris, 
increased with every new devastation of the 
city, have gradually buried from view the 
ancient streets and by-ways together with 
many notable landmarks. Archaeologists 
and Bible students have done much to open 
up such places for research and investiga- 
tion. The two famous brothers, converts 
from Judaism, Father Theodor M. and 
Father Alphons M. Ratisbonne, undertook 
extensive excavations when they founded 
the Zion convent, an institution for the free 
education of orphaned waifs and poor child- 
ren. To this excellent institution we made 
our way, for, like other pilgrims to the Holy 
City, we were desirous of seeing the very 
ways trodden by the Saviour. We entered 
a narrow passageway intersected by several 
others. Small square tablets with inscrip- 
tions are set in the walls to indicate the 
several stations or stops of Our Lord on his 
sorrowful journey to the place of his cruci- 
fixion. There was his meeting with his sor- 
rowful mother, his repeated falls beneath 
the weight of the cross, the consoling of the 



JEEU SALEM. 153 

weeping women by the wayside and the other 
incidents with which we are familiar. This 
passage is thought to be the "Via Dolo- 
rosa," the same through which the rabble 
dragged their meek victim. In commemora- 
tion of the bitter suffering of Christ on his 
way to Calvary, we may see on Friday after- 
noon vast numbers of Christians, walking 
this street and making the stations of the 
cross. Upon this Via Dolorosa is an arch, 
the "Ecce Homo" arch, from which Pilate 
is said to have exhibited the bleeding figure 
of Christ to the shouting blood-thirsty mul- 
titude. This arch has withstood the ravages 
of vandals and the inroads of time and is 
still in a comparatively good state of preser- 
vation. We asked permission to enter the 
Zion convent and the Mother Superior her- 
self conducted us through the halls of the 
spacious building which just then resounded 
with the silvery voices of happy children 
singing a beautiful hymn. The basement 
floor is part of the original street. It is 
paved with square flag stones upon the sur- 
face of which uneven and worn though it is, 
the outlines of some Eoman games are still 
traceable. Here the cross was laid upon the 



154 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

wounded shoulders of Christ, and that 
unspeakably sad journey begun which cul- 
minated in the awful hours on Grolgatha. 
From the flat cemented housetop, an ex- 
tensive view of the city and its environs is 
obtained, but the excessive heat soon drove 
us from that lofty observatory, and bidding 
the selfsacrificing sisters and their hundreds 
of little charges adieu, we sought the cool- 
ness of our rooms in the Hospice. 

Towards evening, when the heat of the 
day had subsided, we again ventured forth, 
this time to visit the Armenian Church of 
St. James, which is built upon the spot 
where the apostle was beheaded in the year 
44, after his return from Spain, by the com- 
mand of King Herod Agrippa I. In the 
church yard is a deep cistern the water from 
which is always cool. A grateful drink it 
was on that hot day when the mouth was 
parched and dry and the tongue adhered to 
the palate from lack of moisture. In the 
vestibule suspended from the wall were some 
queer looking discs of iron and wood. 
They are primitive Armenian bells, and are 
sounded with a wooden hammer by the dea- 
con at the beginning of service. The walls 



JERUSALEM. 155 

of the church are covered with large paint- 
ings portraying the chief events in the hfe 
of the first martyred apostle. The residence 
of the Armenian Patriarch, an elegant build- 
ing of large proportions next claimed our 
attention. After inspecting the beautiful 
halls and reception rooms which were hung 
with fine paintings and engravings, we were 
ushered into the presence of the Patriarch 
himself, who proved to be a man of rare 
culture whose kindly features were an index 
to the nobility of his heart. Near his resi- 
dence, in the same Armenian enclosure, is 
the place which tradition marks as the site 
of the house of Annas the High Priest. 
(See John 18, 13.) A convent occupies the 
ground. From here we went to a little 
church which marks the site of the house of 
Caiaphas. A semi-circular stone in the al- 
tar is pointed out as a fragment of the one 
which closed the tomb of Our Lord. To the 
right of this chapel is a narrow dark cell, 
where the Saviour was kept the night before 
the crucifixion. In the open space outside, 
Peter denied his Master. (Luke, 22, 60.) 
^'En Nebi Daud," is the Mohammedan 
name for David's tomb which is said to be 



156 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT,, 



located under the Coenacle in a subterranean 
chamber the entrance to which is strictly 
guarded by Moslem sentinels and dervishes. 
No Christian dares enter. It is reported 
that this vault is very richly decorated with 
costly tapistery, and that David's bones rest 
in a marble sarcophagus which is covered 
with rare oriental carpets. The Christian 
pilgrim, however, is not drawn thither by 
the thought of David's tomb, but because 
here, according to authentic tradition, is the 
place where, on the eve of His Passion, Christ 
instituted the Sacrament of His Love, the 
Holy Eucharist. We obtained permission 
to enter the Coenacle (which has been re- 
peatedly reconstructed), but were not al- 
lowed to inspect adjacent chambers, or to 
visit the upper story nor the basement, a 
Moslem standing by to watch our move- 
ments. The room is fifty feet long and thirty 
feet wide with rather a low ceiling supported 
by two pillars which divide it into two dis- 
tinct naves. Here it was that Christ gath- 
ered his apostles for the Last Supper (Luke, 
22, 8-13), and where he washed their feet. 
Here the Master appeared to his apostles 
after His resurrection. (John 20, 19. ) Here 



JEKUSALEM. 157 

the Paraclete, God the Holy Grhost de- 
scended at Pentecost (Acts 2, 4.), and from 
this hallowed place St. Peter preached the 
new dispensation to Jew and Gentile. (Acts 
2, 14.) Legend has it that the property 
belonged to Joseph of Arimathea, who 
granted it to the first Christians as a place 
of worship and assembly. St. James (minor) 
from here ruled the incipient Christian con- 
gregation, as St. Panl attests (Gal. 2, 9). 

Near the Coenacle are the Christian ceme- 
teries, while those of the Jews and Moham- 
medans are scattered over the valleys of 
Gihon and Josaphat. To the east the triple 
peaked Mount of Olives rises abruptly from 
this valley which we cross on our return 
from the Coenacle. The Hill of Evil Coun- 
cil overhangs it on the south. Great cliffs 
rising perpendicular from the valley form 
this hill on the top of which is the Hacel- 
dama (field of blood), or potter's field, the 
ancient graveyard for the poor and un- 
known dead which was purchased with the 
silver accepted by Judas as the price of 
the betrayal of his Master. These Jewish 
and Mohammedan graveyards in the valley 
of Josaphat and on the adjacent hillside 



l58 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

present a picture of utter abandonment and 
desolation. Their mode of burial differs 
from ours. The Jews and Moslems place 
the bodies of their dead upon the ground 
and a tomb is constructed about them. 
Two stone slabs protrude from this masonry, 
one at the head, the other at the foot. 
Moreover, it is customary to have these 
tombs white- washed from time to time. 
With this explanation we can grasp the 
meaning of Christ's words when He com- 
pares the Pharisees to ''whited sepulchres." 
The "^ Tombs of the Kings" attract much 
attention. They are probably, with the ex- 
ception of the "Stables of Solomon," the 
most important subterranean structures in 
Judaea. These monumental excavations, 
cut in the living rock, are today the property 
of the French Israelites, who purchased 
them through the mediation of the Parisian 
banker Pereier for thirty thousand francs. 
By a flight of broad steps we descend into 
an open courtyard, where the wellpreserved 
remains of a superb arched entrance in the 
Doric-Grrecian style are visible. From this 
court we pass, or, rather, crawl, through a 
small circular aperture which was originally 



JEKUSALEM. 159 

closed with a Suone slab, like all the old 
mortuary chambers. We now find ourselves 
in a spacious central room the four aisles of 
which lead into as many ante-chambers. 
From these are reached the sepulchral 
abodes proper, ranged in tiers one above an- 
other. Some are vaulted niches, others long 
deep stone troughs, and others still are 
oven-like receptacles, all cut out of the 
solid quarry. There is still much speculation 
among archaeologists concerning the iden- 
tity of the builders, nor do we know with 
certainty for whom these indestructible cata- 
combs were built, whether for the mem- 
bers of the royal Herodian family or for 
other distinguished persons. Notwithstand- 
ing their almost absolute security, these 
graves have been desecrated and plundered 
of their contents, like the mighty mauso- 
leums of the Pharaohs, the pyramids in 
Egypt. Constructed in like manner, hewn 
out of the rock and provided with cham- 
bers and receptacles are the ''Tombs of the 
Judges," which are probably the burial 
places of the members of the Jewish San- 
hedrim. 

Standing at the Damascus Gate and look- 



160 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

ing eastward mountainlike rocks may be 
seen, towering out of the plain, undermined 
by vast caves and dungeons. These are the 
quarries from which the stone for the build- 
ing of the temple was taken. Tradition 
points out 01] e of these caves as the place 
where Jeremiah wrote the Lamentations. 

We are famihar with the story of Father 
Damien, so vividly told by Robert Louis 
Stevenson. On Molokai, one of the islands 
of the Hawaiian group, this truly heroic 
man lived, as it were, entombed for more 
than thirty years among those most un- 
fortunate of human beings, the lepers. The 
heart is moved to horror and pity at the 
description of the bodily disfigurement and 
the sufferings of these afflicted people. I 
had never expected to behold the ostracized 
victims of this most dread disease, but we 
encountered some of them on the occasion 
of our visit to the basilica of the Blessed 
Virgin Mary outside the city gates which 
enshrines the place of her entombment. 
As we approach the sacred edifice, men and 
women were seen leaning against the walls 
and sitting on the steps. They were clad 
in squalid garments and were gruesome 



JEEU SALEM. 161 

sights to behold. In wailing and pitiful 
tones they cry with hoarse voices for 
"Bakshish ! Bakshish ! " ' But more pitiful, 
nay, horrible and repugnant is their ap- 
pearance. With stumpy arms from which 
fingers and hands have decayed and fallen 
away they hold out small tin cups to re- 
ceive the alms for which they call. Their 
faces are either shrunken and withered or 
swollen and bloated with white, yellow and 
green spots. Nose and chin are eaten away 
by running ulcers and scaly sores. Their 
feet have lost the toes. Such as these called 
upon Christ for relief and filled with pity, 
He healed and cleansed them from their 
loathsome sickness. In His name Father 
Damien nursed and consoled them for thirty 
years, and the Sister of Mercy daily washes 
and binds up their nauseating and repulsive 
wounds. A more dreadful sight it is well 
nigh impossible to imagine. We tossed some 
pieces of money to them and hurried by 
this scene of living death. There are homes 
and hospitals for these poor creatures, but 
it seems that begging is lucrative and more 
agreeable to them than conformity to the 
order and regularity of an institution. On 



162 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

the same principle many an old crippled 
man or woman prefers to live and die in 
the slums of our cities than to profit by 
state or private charity. 

St. Mary's Basilica faces upon a large, 
open, paved court from which a flight of 
fifty marble steps lead to the church's 
portal, for the building rests upon a lower 
level. In the eastern part of the church is 
a small chapel where, according to tradi- 
tion, is the tomb of the Blessed Virgin. 
To the right of the steps which lead to the 
entrance, the burial places of Saint Joachim 
and St. Anne are shown, while to the left 
is that of St. Joseph. Besides these we 
find there the last resting place of Queen 
Melisindis, the daughter of Baldwin II. 
The present structure was erected in the 
time of the Crusaders on the spot where 
in the fourth century the original St. Mary's 
church was built. The Armenians are in 
possession of it. Near here, where St. 
Stephen the Proto-martyrer was stoned, is 
the novitiate of the White Fathers, the mis- 
sionaries for the interior of Africa. This 
institution was founded by the great French 
Cardinal of Carthage, Msgr. Lavigerie, the 



JEEUSALEM. 163 

African emancipator and abolitionist of the 
slave trade. Through the garden of this 
fruitful seminary one of the missionaries 
led us to an immense grotto, overhung 
with great mossgrown, ivycovered rocks. 
Here is the Pool of Bethesda spoken of in 
the Gospel (John, 5). This place is some 
distance from the city proper, and the way 
leads over very uneven and stony ground. 
Before we take our proposed trip to Beth- 
lehem, Jericho and the Jordan, there re- 
mains one more sacred spot to be visited, 
and that one most intimately associated 
with Our Lord, the Mount of Olives and 
Grethsemani. To these holy places the reader 
will now accompany us. Early in the morn- 
ing our dragoman, Mustapha Houpta to- 
gether with his partner, Isa Lobat made his 
appearance before the door of the Hospice. 
Isa Lobat had considerable topographical 
knowledge, and had acted as dragoman for 
more than forty years. The guides brought 
with them four donkeys and an extra Arab 
boy whose office it was to whip and goad 
the little animals to keep up their speed. 
When we had successfully mounted, off we 
trotted with Mustapha, Isa and the donkey 



164 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

driver behind running in even tempo. The 
fourth donkey had been engaged for Brother 
Lucas, 0. F. M. of the Convento di San 
Salvatore, who had consented to accompany 
us. It seemed to me at first that we four, 
seated upon donkeys with three drivers 
running and shouting behind must present 
not only a comical but a very conspicuous 
appearance. But this is the customary man- 
ner of procedure. Even in Cairo when 
a lady or gentleman rides a burro, a swarthy 
Arab is always seen running behind, and 
belaboring the obstreperous little beast with 
a switch or stick. Of course ludicrous ac- 
cidents often happen. The donkey is very 
apt to retaliate in his own undignified man- 
ner at some unexpected moment, — and there 
you are on mother earth ! 

Our cavalcade pursues its way towards 
the Damascus Grate, through the narrow 
winding streets of the ancient city, and is 
soon beyond its walls. After crossing the 
valley of Josaphat, the path gradually as- 
cends. Huge boulders protrude from the 
ground as if to obstruct the way. The little 
donkeys carefully grope their way in single 
file one close behind the other. We again 



JEEU SALEM. 165 

passed the place where the lepers congre- 
gate, but, as the hour was rather early they 
had not yet made their appearance. Our 
little caravan stopped before the gate of 
the Garden of Gethsemaui, and leaving our 
beasts in the care of the dragomen, we en- 
tered the grotto where the Passion of Christ 
began in His agony and bloody sweat. This 
grotto is a natural cave of limestone forma- 
tion, resting on natural columns and receiv- 
ing air through an opening above. Here 
the agonizing Saviour, resigning Himself to 
the will of His Father, was strengthened by 
an angel. (Luke, 22, 24.) Near by, but 
carefully fenced in, and surrounded by a 
most beautiful garden of flowers, stand a 
number of veteran olive trees, gnarled and 
twisted with age, which are said to have 
existed since the time of Our Lord. Even 
if this hypothesis be not true, it is more 
than likely that they have sprung from 
shoots of the original trees under which 
Christ so often rested, and the Apostles slept 
on the night before the crucifixion. The 
largest of these trees, the trunk of which 
is split in many places, has, by actual 
measurement, a circumference of twenty- 



166 EUKOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

six feet. In this garden the Master was 
betrayed by Judas, and taken captive. A 
venerable Franciscan brother was working 
in the flower beds on our arrival, and from 
him we gratefully received some flowers as 
a memento of our visit. Leaving Grethse- 
mani and the '^Grrotto of the Agony," we 
remounted and continued our way up the 
Mount of Olives to the Church of the As- 
cension. This sacred place is still in the 
hands of the Moslem, but a bakshish easily 
procures permission to enter. Upon the 
smooth, polished floor is the great attrac- 
tion, a footprint of Christ, encased in 
marble. The outlines are plainly discern- 
ible. From this spot the Saviour, forty 
days after his glorious resurrection, trium- 
phantly ascended into heaven. (Acts 1, 9, 
12.) The genuineness of this relic seems to 
be undoubted, as St. Jerome makes mention 
of it, and also Silvia in 390. All the Christ- 
ian bodies, the Catholics, Greeks, Syrians, 
Kopts and Armenians here solemnly com- 
memorate Christ's ascension. There is one 
more place of interest on Mount Olives not 
far from this church. It is where the Sa- 
viour taught his apostles the Lord's prayer. 



JEEUSALEM. 167 

(Luke, 10, 11.) By tlie munificence of a 
French lady, the Duchesse Aurelie Latour 
d'Anvergne, this site was purchased in 1868, 
a fine church and convent built, and the 
whole placed in charge of the Carmelite 
nuns who have been there ever since. In 
a large gallery adjacent to the church the 
Our Father is engraved on thirty-two tab- 
lets in as many different languages. 

As oar excursion was to last several hours, 
and involved much tedious riding and climb- 
ing, we had been provided with a plentiful 
luncheon by our kind hostess. Seating our- 
selves in the shade of an old wall, we called 
for the knapsack which had been tied to one 
of the saddles. What was our chagrin to 
find that it had been rifled of its contents 
with the exception of a few ham sandwiches. 
The dragomen, thieving scoundrels, had an- 
ticipated our feast. We offered the remnants 
to a hungry looking Arab boy who stood 
watching. The little fellow greedily ate the 
bread, but threw away the ham, for the 
Koran forbids the Mohammedan to eat 
pork, as the Talmud does the Jew. On 
our return to the Hospice, the recital of our 
discomfiture was greeted with hearty laugh- 



168 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

ter. A bountiful dinner restored our shat- 
tered forces and our good humor. 

On the summit of the Mount of Olives, 
the Eussians have built a fine church whose 
lofty spire commands a view of the sur- 
rounding country as far as the Jordan. It 
is a remarkable fact that of late Russia has 
acquired possession of a number of sites en- 
dowed by nature with singular adaptability 
for defense. There is an opinion, which 
the facts seem to warrant, that under the 
cloak of religion, the Muscovite selects these 
places with ulterior design because of their 
military and strategic value. Sooner or later 
Turkey must be absorbed by the Eussian 
Empire, a consummation which has been up 
foremost in the minds of Eussian rulers since 
the days of Peter the Great and Catherine, 
and -towards the realization of which Eus- 
sian diplomacy and statecraft is constantly 
tending. The acquisitions of Eussia in Pa- 
lestine are all strongly fortified and sur- 
rounded by massive walls which give them 
the appearance of veritable strongholds. 
'^In time of peace prepare for war" seems 
to be the principle upon which the Czar's 
government is now proceeding in the Holy 
Land. 



A VISIT TO BETHLEHEM. 

''Let us go over to Bethleliem." Thus 
the shepherds spoke after the angel had 
announced to them the glad tidings of the 
birth of the Saviour. (Luke, 2, 15.) We 
too were animated by the desire of going to 
Bethlehem to kneel and pray upon the spot 
where the Divine Babe first saw the light of 
day. On the morning of June twelfth we 
set out, the driver and the two dragomen 
perched on the front seat of the carriage, 
while Dr. Schutz, Father Postner and my- 
self occupied the two within. After leaving 
the Jaffa gate and passing the valley of 
Grihon, we reached a macadamized road, 
one of the few good roads in Palestine, 
which leads to Bethlehem and thence to 
Hebron. It is one of the oldest and most 
historic highways in the world. Abraham 
passed this way when in obedience to the 
command of Grod he sought Mount Moriah 
there to immolate Isaac his son ; Mary and 
Joseph travelled this road bearing the child 
for the- presentation in the temple, and over 
(169). 



170 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

it the three Magi journeyed from Herod's 
palace to the stable of Bethlehem. The road 
winds over a cultivated plateau rich in re- 
miniscences of Bible history. We passed 
the ^'Well of the Magi," where the star re- 
appeared to the wise men. To the right 
in the distance the town of Mizpali is pointed 
out, where the prophet Samuel annointed 
Saul as king. The monastery of Mar Elias 
we also pass. It marks the spot where the 
prophet Elias slept. Here a large stone may 
be seen which bears the imprint of a human 
body. This is greatly reverenced by the 
Mohammedans who claim that it is the rest- 
ing place of the prophet. Before arriving 
at Bethlehem we stopped at a pathetic and 
striking memorial of early times, the Kub- 
bet Eahil or tomb of Eachel, a little square 
building covered with a white dome and 
situated in the midst of a Mohammedan 
cemetery. It is much venerated by the Mos- 
lems as well as by the Jews, and its walls 
are covered with the names of travellers. 
Jacob, journeying southward, had stopped 
long at Sliechem, a place about two days 
journey from Jerusalem, offered sacrifices 
at Bethel, about half a day's journey north 



A VISIT TO BETHLEHEM. 171 

of Jerusalem, and had nearly reached Beth- 
lehem when his wife Rachel was overtaken 
by childlabor and died in giving birth to 
Benjamin. (Gen. 35, 16.) The account in 
the Bible is brief, but it is not difficult, stand- 
ing on the spot, to realize the tragedy of 
four thousand years ago. Indeed here is 
food for reflection. These hills, valleys and 
fields, the sun, sky and air, the distant view 
of the Mountains of Moab with Nebo across 
the Dead Sea, all these are as they were in 
the days of the patriarchs, the prophets and 
Christ. Jacob and Rachel, David, Boaz and 
Ruth, John, Mary and Joseph and Our 
Lord himself saw them just as we see them 
now. Thoughts like these filled our minds 
as, after resting at Rachel's Tomb, we con- 
tinued our journey towards Bethlehem. 
Rapid driving for about an hour and a half 
brought us within sight of that blessed 
town where according to divine decree the 
Incarnation of the Son of God was accom- 
plished in the cave nineteen hundred and 
two years ago. The Bethlehem of today is 
no longer the obscure town spoken of by 
the prophet Micheas (Mich. 5, 1). It is 
now one of the foremost places in Judaea, 



172 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

having some six thousand inhabitants, who 
carry on a prosperous business in the man- 
ufacture of devotional articles of mother-of- 
pearl and olive wood. The town runs along 
the hillsides in the shape of a horse-shoe, 
and stands out against the sky surrounded 
on all sides by high hills. The prevailing 
style of architecture is much like that in 
Jerusalem — save that the houses present a 
much neater appearance. They stand close 
to the cobblestone streets and have no yards 
or gardens. The people are chiefly natives 
of the town. The loveliness of the Bethle- 
hemite women is remarked upon by all 
travellers. They are conspicuous for their 
beauty. We went at once to the great Ba- 
silica of the Nativity, a large church one 
hundred and ninety feet long and sixty-six 
feet wide, built by the Emperor Constantine 
at the suggestion of his mother in the year 
326. Since that time, as we know, Palestine 
has been repeatedly laid waste, but the 
Church of the Nativity has survived the 
manifold stormes that have swept over it 
in the past fifteen hundred years, the 
vandalism of the Persians in 614, the de- 
struction wrought by the Sultan Hakem in 



A VISIT TO BETHLEHEM. 173 

1010, the rabid fanaticism of the Chares- 
mians in 1244 and all the other wars, and 
yet has never been used for Mohammedan 
worship, notwithstanding the fact that the 
Turk is master and proprietor. This superb 
building is divided into five naves by long 
rows of forty columns, each a monolith 
twenty feet in height. They support the 
arches and the vaulted roof. From the right 
aisle a flight of steps leads down to the 
crypt, and it is here that we find the cave or 
grotto where Christ was born. A Franciscan 
brother hands to each of us a lighted taper, 
and leads the way down, for darkness reigns 
in these cavernous chapels. At the extreme 
end of the aisle is an oratory cut in the rock. 
This is where St. Jerome spent the last 
thirty-four years of his life and completed 
the Vulgate, the first authentic translation 
of the scriptures from the original text into 
Latin, and to this day the authorized version 
of the Church. In an adjoining apartment 
we were shown the tomb of St. Jerome (his 
body was translated to Rome) and the burial 
places of St. Paula and her daughter St. 
Eustochium and of Eusebius of Cremona. 
They all desired to live and die near the' 



174 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

birthplace of the Eedeemer. Another cham- 
ber marks the place where a number of the 
Innocents, slain by the bloody orders of 
Herod, met their death, and the place is also 
shown where St. Joseph was warned by an 
angel to ''take the Child and His mother 
and flee into Egypt." And now we reach 
the Grrotto of the Nativity, a semi-circular 
cave measuring forty-one feet towards its 
western incline, thirteen feet wide and ten 
feet high. It is a natural cave part of which 
has been coated with masonry, and the vault 
and ceiling then lined with marble by the 
piety of the faithful. The pavement is of 
white marble with incrustations of jasper 
and porphyry. Here stood the manger with 
the Divine Child, (Luke, 2) and here the 
three Kings from the Orient offered their 
gifts of "gold, frankincense and myrrh." 
(Math. 2. ) In the floor beneath the marble 
altar on the spot where the Saviour was 
born is a great silver star with the following 
inscription around it, "Hie de Virgine Maria 
Jesus Christus natus est." (Here of the 
Virgin Mary Jesus Christ was born.) How 
this "Here" compels one with irresistible 
force to kneel and pray! Emperors, kings, 




GROTTO OF THE NATIVITY, BETHLEHEM. 



A VISIT TO BETHLEHEM. 175 

patriarchs, prelates, hundreds of thousands 
of travellers have read these words, have 
prostrated themselves on the floor and 
adored Him who was born on this spot for 
our salvation. Many sovereigns have wished 
to have in this grotto of Bethlehem a symbol 
of their faith and piety, and there are some 
thirty-two magnificent lamps continually 
burning there. The Republic of Venice, 
the Emperors of France and of Austria, the 
Kings of Spain and Naples are among those 
thus represented. This grotto. Mount Cal- 
vary and the Holy Sepulchre are the holiest 
places in the world, and those .associated 
with the most momentous events of history. 
Latins, Grreeks and Armenians worship in 
this chapel, and Moslem soldiers stand ever 
on guard. Deeply touched by what we 
had seen, we left the church to view in the 
distance the fields where the shepherds' 
watched their flocks when the angels sang' 
''aiory to God and Peace to Men." The 
shepherds' fields are some two or three 
miles from the grotto. They are planted 
with old olive trees. To the left are the 
lands of Boaz made famous by Euth. After 
purchasing mementos and souvenirs at one 



176 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

of the many shops, we departed for Jerusa- 
lem, this time, however, by another route. 
In the month of June the heat in Pales- 
tine begins to be very oppressive, and, for 
the stranger, almost unbearable. The only 
safeguard against it is to adopt the native 
mode of dressing. This piece of advice was 
given us soon after our arrival in Jerusalem, 
and the next morning we started out in quest 
of the means to put it in practice. We each 
bought a Keffie, a white or striped Arab 
headdress which is adjusted with double 
cords about the fez and allowed to flow in 
loose folds over the neck for protection, and 
a long white sleeveless houmous girded with 
a strap and covering the person completely, 
and, lastly, a white umbrella. Then and 
there we donned our new apparel and so 
complete was the metamorphosis that we 
glanced at one another in amused approba- 
tion as we emerged from the shop. Thus 
arrayed we appeared in public during the 
remainder of our sojourn in the Holy Land, 
and as no comment was ever made upon our 
appearance it must be presumed that it 
was satisfactory and came up to the native 
standard of style. We had our pictures 
taken in this costume before leaving. 



JERICHO, THE DEAD SEA AND JORDAN. 

We reached the Hospice once more in 
good season after our visit to Bethlehem, 
and after allowing ourselves two hours in 
which to dine and rest, we were ready to 
start on the proposed expedition to Jericho, 
the Dead Sea and the River Jordan. At 
about three in the afternoon Mustapha 
Houpta and Isa Lobat once more made 
their appearance this time with a carriage 
drawn by three Arabian horses of remark- 
able spirit and endurance, with a Jewish 
driver in command. These horses won un- 
stinted admiration from us, for they covered 
the distance of twenty-five miles at an al- 
most continuous gallop, and this with a 
breathing span of but twenty minutes. There 
is no animal so wiry, tough and enduring as 
the Arab horse, neither is there any driver 
so cruel and unsparing as the Oriental. 
Any expression of sympathy for the ex- 
hausted and maltreated animals seems only 
to cause the reckless driver to ply his cruel 
whip with new vigor upon their foaming 
(177) 



l78 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYP^. 

backs J and he seems utterly devoid of pity 
for the dumb suffering brutes. Our way 
led past the Moslem and Jewish cemeteries, 
Mount Olives and Bethany into a weird, 
desolate and hilly stretch of country. The 
road was a good one of macadam, and had 
been put in order in preparation for Em- 
peror William's visit. This fine highway, 
connecting Jerusalem with Jericho, the 
country beyond the Jordan and^the Dead Sea, 
is much frequented at all hours of the day 
and night. Bedouin caravans with camels 
and pack mules are continually moving to 
and from Jerusalem, and this is particularly 
the case in the month of June when the 
newly threshed wheat is carried to market. 
Long lines of hundreds of donkeys and 
camels followed by their haughty owners 
are constantly encountered. The Bedouins 
those ^ 'proud lords of the desert" are nom- 
adic tribes of Arabia and Syria who move 
from place to place as the exigencies of their 
flocks and herds require. For ages they 
have led a pastoral life, dwelling in tents, 
raising cattle, going forth in quest of plunder 
and spending their leisure in horseraising, 
storytelling and smoking. All domestic 



JEEICHO, THE DEAD SEA AND JOEDAN. 179 

cares are left to women, the tending of 
the flocks is consigned to the boys and 
girls and all agricultural labor is laid upon 
the fellah. The Bedouin traces his geneology 
to Ishmael. The desert is the birthplace of 
his race. Fierce and courageous in battle, 
he is simple and frugal in his mode of liv- 
ing. His diet is the flesh and milk of his 
flock, bread baked in hot ashes, rice and 
coffee. This brown son of the desert is spare 
and sinewy, capable of enduring great fa- 
tigue and exposure in the fiery sun and 
hot winds of the treeless plains, and has 
regular features with deepset, piercing and 
intelligent dark eyes. He wears a long flow- 
ing robe, a Keffle, folded cornerwise and tied 
about the head with a cord of camel's hair, 
and wide shoes or slippers made of camePs 
hide. His gait is easy, lithe and elastic. 
The Bedouin tribes are governed by sheiks, 
the office being hereditary and descending 
to the next in age, whether son or brother. 
A long-barreled gun swung carelessly over 
the shoulders, a dagger thrust into the belt 
and a lance are the constant companions of 
the Bedouin without which he is never seen. 
Their thieving, marauding and murderous 



180 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

propensities inspire the traveller in these 
regions with fear and caution, for many a 
successful raid have they made upon un- 
suspecting tourists. They exercise undis- 
puted dominion over the desert plains which 
they inhabit, and no traveller may cross 
them without the permission of the ruling 
sheik who will exact a toll. Thus when we 
were nearing Jericho the Bedouin sheik from 
a tented settlement in the vicinity made 
his appearance and vehemently objected to 
allowing our two dragomen to conduct us 
through the desert to the Dead Sea and 
the Jordan. He claimed the exclusive priv- 
ilege of providing guides for such expedi- 
tions and insisted that we be accompanied 
by a Bedouin escort. To save our necks we 
consented to his proposition, or, rather, to 
his imperious demands, and so, when we set 
out again next morning, our precious lives 
were in the keeping of four men heavily 
armed. The road to Jericho has a continu- 
ous down grade. It leads through an abso- 
lutely barren country and on either side are 
steep hills, precipitous cliffs broken by the 
yawning mouths of black caverns, ravines 
and deep gorges. With one exception there 



JEEICHO, THE DEAD SEA AND JOEDAN. 181 

is not a human dwelling to be seen upon the 
entire route until we approach the famous 
Mar Saba. This one exception is called the 
Samaritan Inn, and is a half way house 
where travellers may obtain refreshments of 
various kinds at exorbitant rates. Here we 
halted to rest ourselves and our animals. 
We were vividly reminded of the man in the 
parable who ^'went down from Jerusalem to 
Jericho, and fell among robbers." On dis- 
covering the cost of entertainment at this 
inn we too felt that we had fallen among 
robbers, and yet one is thankful for a re- 
freshing drink in this part of the world, no 
matter what the cost. At this inn I pur- 
chased an old Bedouin dagger, which I still 
preserve as a memento. In the East it is 
customary in selling any article to demand 
at first at least four times its value. The 
purchaser must then begin to dicker, offer- 
ing a much lower sum, and, after these pre- 
liminaries are gone through with, there is 
not much trouble in striking a fair bargain. 
This fellow wanted seven francs for his dag- 
ger. I offered him one, and got it for a 
franc and a half. In the Orient the un- 
sophisticated and the unwary are almost 



182 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

sure to be fleeced. We had not been long 
in Constantinople before we began to realize 
that the friend had given good advice who 
said to us, '^Beware of them, for every other 
man is a rogue and a scoundrel." When 
man and beast had recuperated, we pro- 
ceeded on our way. The face of the coun- 
try now bfegan to be more wild than ever ; 
the hills increased to mountains, and the 
ravines deepened to chasms. Many a pass- 
ing Bedouin cast sinister glances in our 
direction, and yet I could not but admire 
these men as they followed their caravans, 
munching their hard baked bread and raw 
cucumbers. Their mien \s stately and noble, 
their carriage free and independent, and they 
seem happy and contented with the scant 
subsistence which by dint of hard labor they 
wrest from the arid sandy plains. Would 
not their eyes fairly bulge out of their 
sockets could they see the broad fertile 
acres of Illinois ! 

After driving an hour our attention was 
called to Mar Saba, the famous Grreek mon- 
astery built upon an almost inaccessible rocky 
height. This formidable structure has the 
appearance of a grim fortress. It is flanked 



JERICHO, THE DEAD SEA AND JOED AN. 183 

by two square observation towers and en- 
tirely surrounded by a high, unscalable wall. 
It is set upon the abrupt terrace of a dizzy 
gorge, at the bottom of which the brook 
Kedron, in winter a raging torrent, seethes 
and foams six hundred feet below. The 
rocks fall away so perpendicularly, that huge 
flying buttresses were necessary to render 
available even the moderate area occupied 
by the monastery. From the earliest days 
of Christianity, men of earnest prayer, 
moved by the spirit of penance, forsook the 
glittering allurements of the world and re- 
tired to lonely caves and desert places there 
to lead a life of meditation and contempla- 
tion, and so attain to a higher degree of 
spirituality. Such were the anchorites in 
the third century. From these individual 
ascetics monasticism or community life was 
gradually developed. Mar Saba is unques- 
tionably the oldest monastery in the world. 
It was founded by the abbot St. Sabas, a 
disciple of Euthymius, in the year 478. 
St. John Damascene lived here in the eighth 
century. To visit Mar Saba it is necessary 
to have a special written permission from 
the Glreek Patriarch of Jerusalem. We saw 



184 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

many caves and excavations, now homes for 
the jackal, where many centuries ago her- 
mits and anchorites led their secluded lives 
of prayer. At this point the Judaean moun- 
tains gradually recede and, our road becom- 
ing more and more precipitous, we were at 
times, for safety's sake, obliged to get down 
and walk. To the right at the foot of a hill 
we pass a pile of ruins known as Chorbet el 
Kaken, the spot where the Saviour restored 
to blind Bartimaeus his sight. (Mark 10, 
46. ) A most striking picture now presented 
itself. Stretched before us lay ''Grhor," as 
the Arabs call the desert surrounding the 
Dead Sea and the Jordan, mountain ranges 
rising beyond, while in the midst of the 
waste was a pleasant green oasis within 
which is ''Er-Eicha" or Jericho. Here we 
arrived as the shades of evening began to 
creep over the plains. 

Arranging with a Moslem inn-keeper for 
our night's lodging, we proceeded some two 
miles farther to the Well of Eliseus, spoken 
of in the following passage: ''And the men 
of the city (Jericho) said to Eliseus, '.Be- 
hold the situation of this city is very good, 
as thou, my lord, seest: but the waters are 



JERICHO, THE DEAD SEA AND JOED AN. 185 

very bad and the ground barren..' And he 
said, ^Bring me a new vessel and put salt in 
it.' And when they had brought it, he went 
to the spring of waters and cast the salt into 
it, and said, 'Thus saith the Lord: I have 
healed these waters and there shall be no 
more in them death or barrenness.' And 
the waters were healed unto this day, ac- 
cording to the word of Eliseus." (IV. 
Kings 2, 19 — 22.) Ancient Jericho stood 
immediately north of this well. Here we 
halted and alighted and drank deep draughts 
of the sparkling, crystal pure waters which 
bubbled up from many small springs, dis- 
charging their surplus into an irrigating 
ditch. By means of this ditch the water is 
carried as far as the present Er-Richa. In 
this inhospitable and barren plain where all 
vegetation is dwarfed and stunted, and 
nothing but rocks and yellow clay banks 
meet the tired eye, the Well of Eliseus is 
a godsend to the poor inhabitants, an oasis 
in the wilderness. 

To the west, a few miles distant, the 
"'Dshebel Karantel" or Mount Quarantania 
rises before us. Here Christ passed the forty 
days and forty nights of prayer and fasting. 



186 EUEOPE, THE .HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

(Math. 4.) Everywhere is biblical ground, 
and this, the site of ancient Jericho is especi- 
ally rich in associations. The last glances 
of Moses, dying upon Mount Nebo, were 
directed across the Jordan and the Dead 
Sea and fixed upon Jericho in Chanaan, the 
promised land. (Deut., 34.) Here, close 
to the well, the Israelites, freed from Egypt- 
ian bondage, pitched their tents, and under 
Joshue's leadership took possession of the 
city, the walls collapsing at the blast of the 
trumpets and the peoples' shout. (Josh. 6. ) 
In after ages, in the time of Our Lord 
Jericho and its vicinity played a prominent 
part, for here Jesus restored sight to the 
blind man, (Luke, 18), entered the house of 
Zacheus, (Luke, 19), and seth forth upon 
his journey eastward to Jerusalem. 

Since the time of the Crusaders ancient 
Jericho has disappeared from the face of 
the earth; and not a vestige remains to 
mark its former site. The present town is 
but a gathering of Bedouin mud huts to- 
gether with a few more pretentious houses 
in one of which we stayed over night. As 
we returned from the Well of Eliseus, dark- 
ness gradually enveloped the landscape; 



JEEIOHO, THE DEAD SEA AND JOED AN. 187 

the camp-fires of the roving Bedouins 
burned bright ; the people gathered in clus- 
ters here and there, and the omni-present 
dog began the fierce howling which was to 
continue all through the night. The howl- 
ing of the dogs, our host explained next 
morning, is caused by the approach of the 
jackals which at night leave their mountain 
lairs in large numbers and prowl about the 
country in quest of food, venturing even to 
the doors of houses. 

Mosquitos persistently tormented our 
weary bodies throughout the night, so 
that but little sleep or rest were possible. 
These, however, were a lesser evil in com- 
parison with another variety of tormenters 
who seemed to hunger ravenously after our 
blood. I refer to the fleas. Whoever has 
been in the East or in Italy can tell fine 
tales of these pestiferous little hoppers. 
Six weeks after my return to Europe, I 
still bore scars from the wounds inflicted in 
these night attacks. 

In a little garden adjoining our inn at- 
tempts had been made at raising vegetables 
which proved quite successful. There were 
also tall pomegranates laden with luscious 



188 EUKOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

fruit, and figs and grapes of unusual size. 
The explanation was soon forthcoming. 
A channel had been dug leading from the 
Well of Eliseus, and tmce a day a stream- 
let was permitted to water the garden. As 
our dragoman had brought fresh mutton and 
tea from Jerusalem, we fared very well in 
Jericho. Early next morning, at three 
o'clock, we were roused from our short and 
interrupted slumbers, and, horses and men 
being ready, we set out for the Dead Sea and 
Jordan. 

As already stated the Bedouin claims 
sovereignty over all '^Grhor." He demands 
a fee for his protection and, without it, to 
venture forth would be foolhardy. We had 
agreed with a vicious looking sheik the pre- 
vious night to accept an extra Bedouin es- 
cort for the day. Breakfast disposed of, 
the start is made, and we are soon off over 
sand and stone and barrenness, up hill and 
down hill, our Arab steeds sweeping over 
the desert plain with unexpected freshness 
and vigor. What was it that caused our 
men suddenly to place their guns in readi- 
ness*? Do they feel the presence of some 
lurking enemy? A sense of insecurity takes 




f 
4 



I 



I 

J 




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h^^- 



■A^ 1 




JERICHO, THE DEAD SEA AND JOED AN. 189 

possession of us, and every eye is strained 
in the effort to penetrate the gray of the 
dawn, and determine the intentions of the 
human figures that are seen moving towards 
us. Meantime not a word is spoken. They 
prove to be Bedouins, but bent on friendly 
mission, and they pass us with the good 
natured greeting, ' 'Salaam Aleikum," peace 
be with you. At five o'clock on the morn- 
ing of June the thirteenth we stood upon the 
shore of the Dead Sea ! Who does not shud- 
der at the mention of that name, recalling 
a fearful judgment from God. 

''Baha Lut," Lot's Sea, as the Arab calls 
this salt lake, is enclosed by the mountains 
of Moab on the east, and those of Hebron 
on the west. It is forty-five miles long and 
its greatest width is ten miles. Its bed is 
the ancient vale of Siddim, which Lot chose 
when he separated from Abraham and which 
was then an attractive region watered by 
the Jordan and containing the cities of So- 
dom and Gromorrah. Though separated 
from the Mediterranean by only seventy- 
five miles, there is a difference of more than 
thirteen hundred feet in their levels, that of 
the Dead Sea being so much lower. It is 



l90 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPf . 

the deepest depression of the kind known 
on the earth. The mountains on the east 
are barren, rugged and forbidding and are 
rent and cleft by deep chasms and gorges. 
The desolation of the scene is augmented by 
the fact that a few spare bushes with leaf- 
less branches encrustsd with salt, and here 
and there trunks of dead trees are the only 
signs of vegetation. The shore is of slimy 
mud, into which the foot sinks deep, and 
the tracks thus left are soon lined with in- 
crustations of salt. The water is dense, ex- 
tremely bitter and so heavily charged with 
salt that bodies float upon the surface like 
cork. Anything dipped into the water dries 
almost as soon as it is withdrawn, and is 
then covered with a thin coating of salt. 
The immense evaporations produced by the 
burning Syrian sun leave the shores and 
the land in the vicinity covered with the salt 
deposit. They breed fever and death. The 
leaden surface of the water is rarely dis- 
turbed, you see no ripple or ruffle on its 
dark and sombre bosom, nor is there sign 
of animal life within. The salt in the water 
would seem to be derived from the remark- 
able salt hills on the south-west shore 



JEEICHO, THE DEAD SEA AND JORDAN. 191 

called Dshebel Usdem. Notwithstanding 
the fact that the Dead Sea has no outlet, 
and that the river Jordan daily discharges 
millions of gallons of water into its motion- 
less body, this salt lake never seems to ex- 
pand. The appalling catastrophe recorded 
in the Bible has forever left its mark upon 
this region of death. I tasted the bitter 
water and gathered an Adam's apple which 
when crushed emits a smokelike powder. 
The notion that no bird flies over the dread 
expanse of the sea is erroneous. Travellers 
testify to the contrary. We ourselves saw 
a number of birds near the water, and a 
lean gray hare even made his appearance, 
scared from his hiding place beneath some 
withered tufts of grass near the banks. 
While we walked along the shore, gathering 
stones and pebbles, our dragomen and the 
driver plunged into the lake's inky depths 
for a bath. They were buoyed up by the 
density of the water, and splashed and 
floated upon the surface. After half an 
hours stay, our faces, hands and clothing 
being coated with salt, we decided to pro- 
ceed to the Jordan. 

On the way to the Dead Sea the road tra- 



192 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

verses the valleys of Ephraim and Ben- 
jamin. Turning towards the Jordan we 
soon entered the valley of St. John. In 
these regions was heard the ' Voice of one 
crying in the wilderness," proclaiming pen- 
ance, and announcing the coming of Him 
who was to '^take away the sins of the 
world." It took just one hour of brisk 
driving to bring us within sight of the river's 
sacred waters. At half -past six in the morn- 
ing we reached that identical spot where 
the Saviour was baptised by St. John. 
(Mark, 1, 9.) Pious legend connects this 
same place with other events recorded in 
the Bible. Here Joshue led the Israelites 
through the bed of the river (Jos., 3), and 
again the waters parted for the passage of 
Elias and Eliseus (IV. Kings, 2, 3). Here 
also St. Christopher pursued his charitable 
labor. The banks of the river are over- 
grown with shrubbery and stately trees 
among which the poplar and willow pre- 
dominate. 

On' our arrival, the horses were watered, 
and permitted to graze, the dragomen and 
drivers stretched themselves in the cool 
shade of overhanging boughs, while we 



JEEICHO, THE DEAD SEA AND JORDAN. 193 

proceeded to quench our thirst from the 
waters of the river. We filled the flasks we 
had purchased for that purpose at the half- 
way house, and then bathed in the river in 
accordance with the custom of pilgrims from 
time immemorial. It was an ideal morning 
cool and breezy, and the sun was not yet 
high in the heavens. We all felt that we 
were fully compensated for the long and 
wearysome journey so many thousand miles 
from home, and for the heavy outlay which 
our pilgrimage had occasioned. The fondest 
desire of my life cherished for years was 
now realized. How sweet to linger here 
and meditate upon the inspiring events of 
nineteen hundred years ago, upon the 
mighty exhortations of the Forerunner, and 
the fathomless humility of the Son of God 
as he stood in Jordan's waters and received 
the baptism of John ! 

The Jordan and the Dead Sea were thor- 
oughly explored by an American expedition 
under Lieutenant Lynch in 1848. The sour- 
ces of the river are found on the southern 
declivities of Lebanon where they bubble 
up from twenty small springs. Its course 
is tortuous and rapid and carries with it 



i94 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

many impurities gathered from the steep 
clay banks between which it flows from 
Lake Glenesareth to the Dead Sea. 

After an hours stay we turned back to- 
wards Jerusalem, taking a last drink from 
the waters of the famous stream. On the 
return journey, shortly after our start, we 
stopped at the Greek monastery of Mar Ju- 
hanna, or St. John the Baptist. 

The situation of this monastery is the 
very acme of dreariness, for its surround- 
ings are absolutely barren and nude. It is 
built in the midst of a sandy, rocky plain 
which is rent in deep fissures by the scorch- 
ing merciless heat. To the west, ravines 
several hundred feet in depth cut off ap- 
proach. Our friend from Baltimore espied 
on an eminence a heap of bones all bleached 
by the sun. A part of some poor Bedouin's 
frame now adorns the doctor's study. The 
monastery is surrounded by a high and 
massive stone wall. Over the entrance gate 
is a small turret containing a large bell 
which may be rung from the interior of the 
building. A powerful mastiff lying on the 
platform before the church was on duty, 
scanning the horizon with watchful eyes. 



JERICHO, THE DEAD SEA AND JOED AN. 195 

The animars fierce barking at our approach 
brought out a silent and ascetic looking 
monk who kindly ushered us into a cool 
room. Shortly afterwards we were hospi- 
tably served with cold water mixed with 
quince jelly, and before we left tiny cups of 
strong, aromatic coffee were brought. Heroic 
lives are led here in this secluded home, over 
which the eternal silence of the desert 
hovers, and whose walls the noise and hurry 
of worldly pursuits have never penetrated. 
About nine o'clock we reached Jericho 
once more, stopping there until two in the 
afternoon. Reconnoitering the town we 
came upon the butcher shop where camel's 
meat was for sale. The whole affair was 
rather primitive, it must be confessed. The 
meat, including the entire head, was laid 
out on straw by the road side, and myriads 
of flies were sampling its quality. The pro- 
prietor of this Jericho butcher shop was 
squatting behind the ' 'counter' ' smoking cig- 
arettes. In the garden of the inn, which I 
have before described, the pomegranates 
had grown to the size of large apples. I 
plucked some for distant friends, and 
brought them safely over. 



196 EUBOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

From Jericho to Jerusalem the road was 
very difficult. What was down hill before, 
was, of course, now almost continuous as- 
cent. The rise was often so abrupt that we 
had to leave the carriage and climb the hills 
for one and two miles at a time. The sun 
beat down unmercifully, and never a shelter- 
ing tree or cool spring was to be seen. The 
limestone rocks reflected the heat with an 
intensity which caused the brain to whirl, 
blurred the sight and made the heart flutter 
and palpitate. Our exhausted bodies, bathed 
in perspiration were often on the verge of 
collapse. That mountain climbing in Judaea 
on that hot day in June was the hardest 
physical labor I ever performed. The Arabs, 
however, whom we encountered so fre- 
quently on the highway, walked with as 
easy, elastic and swinging a gait, as if they 
were on a dancing floor. They soon over- 
took us, and as rapidly passed out of sight. 
Ah, with what a sense of relief we hailed in 
the distance the Samaritan Inn! 

To the north of the Mount of Olives lies 
Bethany, the home of Lazarus and his 
sisters Mary and Martha, whose company 
the Saviour loved. There we stopped on 



JEEIGHO, THE DEAD SEA AND JORDAN. 197 

this return journey to Jerusalem, to visit 
the ancient sight of their little house. ^ In 
a dilapidated building we descended a flight 
of thirty-one steps cut in the rock to the 
place where the tomb of Lazarus had been 
and where Christ raised him from the dead. 
Ruins and rubbish, dirt and squalor are 
everywhere encountered in Bethany. The 
holy places are in a state of utter neglect. 
In the place of Lazarus' sepulture goats 
find nightly lodging. Towards eight o'clock, 
with a hearty Deo Grratias, we reached our 
Hospice once more, tired and worn from 
the exertions of our interesting journey. 



FROM PALESTINE TO EGYPT. 

And now the time of our departure had 
arrived. The end and object of our pilgrim- 
age was attained. To Jerusalem, city of 
David, to Zion, Moriah, Calvary and Olivet, 
to Gethsamani, Bethlehem and Jordan and 
the hills and valleys of Judaea we bade a 
long farewell. Reluctantly we parted with 
our kind hosts at the Hospice. After a last 
cordial handshaking, we set off for the rail- 
way station, followed by their hearty wishes 
for a prosperous voyage to Egypt, the land 
of the Pharaohs, the pyramids and the Nile, 
whither we were now bound. Our Glreek 
dragoman, Isa Lobat, was to accompany 
us, but from the Moslem, Mustapha Houpta, 
we parted at Jaffa. 

At twenty minutes of eight on the morn- 
ing of June seventeenth our train left Jeru- 
salem. Soon the city passed out of sight, 
but, until, the valley of Sharon was reached, 
the frowning mountain ranges of Judea stood 
out, vivid reminders of the scenes and in- 
cidents which, in the short space of a week, 
(198) 



FKOM PAIvESTINE TO EGYPT. 199 

had been crowded into our lives to remain 
indelibly stamped upon mind and memory. 
Our trip was without incident and we ar- 
rived safely in Jaffa at ten minutes after 
eleven. Two steamers were anchored off 
the perilous needles, a Russian and an Egyp- 
tian, both bound for Port Said, but sailing 
on different dates. We decided in favor of 
theRaihanieh of theKhedivialline, although 
vastly inferior to the other vessel, for it was 
ready to leave port that same afternoon. 
Immediately after dinner at the Franciscan 
Hospice, at which we were again served by 
our jovial Irishman, Brother Alfred, and 
before the waters of the harbor had com- 
menced to toss and surge, a small boat 
rowed by four swarthy Arabs brought us 
safely through the dangerous channel to the 
steamer, which hoisted her anchor at three 
o'clock and headed for the shores of Africa, 
for Port Said at the entrance of the Suez 
Canal. 

There was little to praise on the Egyp- 
tian steamer on which we now found our- 
selves. On the foreward deck among the 
steerage passengers, pandemonium reigned 
all night. The majority of them were Mo- 



200 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

hammedans bound for Mecca, and a dirty 
quarrelsome set they were, each one trying 
to get the better of his neighbor in the mat- 
ter of sleeping places. They stretched them- 
selves promiscuously upon the deck, with 
bags, bundles, coats or blankets for pillows. 
Mates and sailors not, as a rule, over bur- 
dened with the virtue of forbearance, oc- 
casionally intervened as peace-makers, ac- 
companying their arguments with blows k 
la Sullivan. Happily there were but five 
cabin passengers, and so we had the pro- 
menade deck almost entirely to ourselves. 
Here under a most beautiful deep azure sky 
we spent the greater part of the night, for 
the cabins were anything but tidy and in- 
viting, even the table linen urgently needing 
the attention of the laundress. The food 
was poor. The Eussian steamers are said 
to be the best that ply in the Mediterranean, 
though those of the "Messagerie Maritime" 
on which we travelled, the Saghalien and 
the Portugal, were all that could be desired. 
The mental and physical discomfort which 
we endured on this Egyptian boat were only 
alleviated by the knowledge that they were 
to be of brief duration. Next morning at 



FEOM PALESTINE TO EGYPT. 201 

six we sighted Port Said, and at seven we 
had ah'eady landed. 

This rapidly growing city of some forty 
thousand inhabitants owes its existence en- 
tirely to the canal. Great coal sheds and 
warehouses line the water edge, and the 
harbor is constantly filled with a multitude 
of ships from various countries, all going to 
or from Australian and Asiatic ports. Of 
all the vessels present, however, there was 
but one American and a warship at that 
returning from the Philippines. Our mer- 
chant marine has been woefully neglected 
and it is seldom, indeed, that an American in 
foreign ports has the opportunity of gazing 
upon the stars and stripes floating from a 
masthead. 

Port Said perpetuates the name of Said 
Pasha, son of the famous Mehemet Ali, 
who helped the English to expel the French 
from Egypt in 1801, and who became a 
recognized leader there in 1806. Said Pasha 
succeeded to the vice-royalty on the assas- 
sination of Abbas Pasha in 1854, and to 
him is chiefly due the credit for the con- 
struction of the great international water- 
way, the Suez Canal, which, since November 



202 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

seventeenth 1869, has Hnked the Mediter- 
ranean to the Red Sea, Europe to Australia. 
The bold conception of this isthmian canal 
is ascribed in modern times to Napoleon I. 
at the time of his invasion of Egypt. His- 
tory records several attempts at executing 
similar plans as early as 1300, b. c, under 
Ramses II., and again in 600 b. c. under 
Necho. Darius Hystaspes built a canal 
thirty-seven miles long, reaching to the 
Bitter Lakes, for the purpose of carrying 
ships and of watering the land. In 270 b. c. 
Ptolemy carried the canal still farther, but 
it subsequently filled with sand, and became 
obliterated. Various attempts succeeded 
one another, and were abandoned until in 
our own time the great French engineer, 
Ferdinand de Lessep^s, demonstrated to all 
concerned' the entire practicability of this 
gigantic scheme which had defied the Pha- 
raohs. A company was organized, and 
work began in 1858. Eleven years later this 
herculean undertaking had been brought 
, successfully to completion, having cost some 
three hundred million francs. The length 
of the Suez Canal is about one hundred 
miles including several small lakes through 



FROM PALESTINE TO EGYPT. 203 

which it passes. It is three hundred and 
twenty-five feet wide and twenty-six feet 
deep. Ships of three and four thousand 
tons, drawing twenty- two feet of water go 
through in thirteen hours. At the formal 
opening a procession of decorated vessels of 
various nations passed through. Empress 
Eugenie, Emperor Francis Joseph of 
Austria, Crown Prince Frederic of Prussia 
and other notable persons being present. 
The religious ceremonies were performed 
by Napoleon's Almoner, Bishop Bauer. At 
the entrance of the canal upon a lofty 
pedestal stands the life-size statue of Ferdi- 
nand de Lesseps, its builder. Upon the 
base is an appropriate inscription. We had 
two hours in which to loiter about the 
town and observe its cosmopolitan charac- 
ter. After taking luncheon, and buying the 
latest London dailies which were four or five 
days old, we sought the railway station, for 
the trip to Cairo and Alexandria were to be 
made by train. i 

At a quarter before nine we left Port 
Said, arriving at Cairo at a quarter of five 
that afternoon. The first part of the route 
follows the canal through the dreary desert, 



204 EUEOPEj THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

where no sign whatever of vegetation is to 
be seen — nothing but endless plains of 
yellow sand, sand, sand, with waves of fiery 
heat vibrating through the air. The road 
bed is made from the soil excavated from 
the canal. On this the sections of rails are 
laid over iron ties which have, fastened 
underneath them round bowls. These latter 
fill at once with sand, become solidly im- 
bedded, and remain fixed in position. In 
order to protect the telegraph poles from the 
ants and other insects of the desert, they are 
placed upon iron posts three or four feet 
high. Here and there along the way one 
may see a lonely traveller with his faithful 
camel resting by the waters, cruelly exposed 
to the scorching rays of the African sun. At 
Tel-el-kebir, a small waystation the engine 
took water, and at eleven o'clock we reached 
the more important town of Ismailia, forty- 
two miles from Port Said, where the Sweet 
Water Canal joins the Suez. This canal 
begins at Zagazig, receiving its waters from 
the Nile. It was built for the purpose of 
supplying drinking water to the laborers 
along the line. At Ismailia it is forced into 
a double line of nine inch pipes and carried 



FROM PALESTINE TO EGYPT. 205 

by them along the canal to Port Said. Near 
this Sweet Water Canal the Mahdi's forces 
were routed by the English in 1882, and 
this fierce and formidable warrior was him- 
self killed. The shirt of mail which he wore 
on this occasion was, until lately, in my 
brother's possession. It is a garment woven 
of wire and reaching from the neck down to 
the knees. After Ismailia, our next stop 
was at Zagazig where over one hour and a 
half were allowed for dinner. The hotel 
runners at this place were not different from 
those of other towns in their brazen bold- 
ness and impudence. We went to a native 
hotel opposite the pretentious depot, whose 
patrons were served with scanty meals at 
high prices. Unknown to us, Asiatic Cholera 
had broken out at Zagazig. Thirteen 
authentic cases of the dread disease were re- 
ported that day. The inhabitants showed 
no signs of alarm, but three days later all 
travellers from that City were kept fourteen 
days in quarantine. We congratulated our- 
selves on this timely and fortunate escape. 
At Cairo we registered at the Eden Palace 
hotel which is situated on the public square 
and is well kept by a Greek. 



CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS. 

In Cairo as in Constantinople, one meets 
with an incongruous mixture of East and 
West, peculiarly fascinating and interesting 
to a stranger. Being refreshed after the 
long railway journey, we set out in the cool 
and breezy evening to explore ancient and 
modern Cairo, availing ourselves of car- 
riage and also of the trolly cars which latter 
compare favorably with the best in America. 
The streets and public places are filled with 
a heterogeneous mass of noisy people, walk- 
ing, rioting or lounging. In front of the 
cafes crowds of men and women sit about 
sipping coffee or lemonade, drinking wine 
and beer and smoking the nargileh or ciga- 
rettes. Shouting muleteers offer their little 
beasts for hire. Boot-blacks and street 
fakirs, with cigarettes, nuts, fans, canes, 
shells and trinkets of every imaginable 
description and very little use, will follow 
an intended victim for blocks at a time till 
a few well-directed blows from hand or cane 
insure temporary relief from molestation. 
(206) 



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Oairo and the pyeamids. 207 

A phantastic army of swarthy men and 
dusky women, coalblack negroes, bronzed 
Bedouins and sallow complexioned Arabs, 
all in their native costumes, together with 
many white-skinned ruddy cheeked Eur- 
opeans of all nationalities in modern attire 
may be seen promenading on the streets of 
Cairo after a sultry summerday. In the 
morning, when from all parts of the fertile 
delta thousands of heavy laden camels and 
asses are driven to market, the scene is not 
less animated and attractive than at night. 
Old Cairo is noted for its narrow, crooked, 
winding, dirty streets, while New Cairo, in 
the elegance of its architecture, the beauty 
of its parks, fountains, statues and public 
buildings vies with any other European or 
American City. The great bazaar is fam- 
ous the world over, and it would require 
considerable time and space to describe 
adequately its alluring exibits. We were 
shown a small writing desk, beautifully in- 
laid with mother of pearl which had been 
sold to a Chicago lady for fifteen hundred 
dollars. The Cairo bazaar, that chaotic and 
labyrinthine mart, must be seen to be fully 
appreciated and understood. 



208 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

The mystery and languor of the servant is 
embodied in the veiled women who flit about 
like silent spectres, nothing obviously 
human about them but a hand which 
clutches the long draperies across the mouth 
and nose. With women of means and station 
the head-gear and the veil concealing the 
lower part of the face are held together by 
gold or gilded clasps. One may see women 
of all ages and almost every rank, from the 
"hanoum" or lady, in figured silk, with her 
rouged and powdered face showing through 
the cobwebby gauze of her veil, to the 
woman of the lower classes, clad in calico 
prints, her facial charms shielded by coarse 
white cotton cloth. The custom of the 
women going veiled seems to be observed 
even more strictly here than in Constantin- 
ople. In the latter place a few years ago 
Sultan Abdul Hamed was obliged to take 
measures for enforcing the rule more rigidly. 

A large portion of the more intelligent 
among the Egyptians are open to European 
influence, young Turks holding responsible 
positions in banking houses, manufactories 
or public institutions. 

The blue waters of the Nile, navigable for 



CAIRO AND THE PYKAMIDS. 209 

hundreds of miles give to Cairo its importance 
and the surrounding country its unsurpassed 
fertility. The soil enriched by the annual 
overflow, yields three harvests a year. The 
mighty river is spanned by a superb bridge 
of solid masonry, decorating which are four 
huge lions cast in bronze. 

At an early hour, five o'clock, the morning 
after our arrival we prepared for a visit to 
the pyramids of Grizeh and the Sphinx, 
which stand on the border of the Libyan 
desert and the great Sahara. The eight mile 
drive leads over a well-made avenue shaded 
on both sides by lines of dense acacias, 
which admit the breeze but shut off the 
rays of the sun. As we rolled along behind 
the Arab grays, our eyes were gladdened by 
tropical gardens, beyond which spread the 
varying greens of the rich and exuberant 
Nile valley. In the whole world there are 
no richer fields. In less than two hours we 
arrived at our destination. Near the Bedouin 
village on the east border we alighted, for 
the vehicle could proceed no further, and a 
laborious tramp over the sand of the Sak- 
harra had now to be undertaken. At sight 
of us a number of lounging Bedouins gal- 



210 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGtPT, 

loped up on their camels, each offering the 
services of his beast. Before long they had, 
according to their custom, gotten into such 
a fuss and quarrel that our dragoman had to 
whip them apart so we could proceed. The 
camel drivers are not the only ones who lay 
in wait for the unwary traveller at this 
point. A horde of fakirs, photographers 
and guides, literally swarmed around us 
each trying to make a few dollars. Our 
whole interest was absorbed by thepyramids, 
the most tremendous structures ever raised 
by human hands, the sepulchral abodes of 
the Pharaohs or Kings of ancient Egypt, 
erected in the gray dawn of antiquity, two 
and three thousand years before Christ. 
There they stood, imperial, vast and solid, 
mute witnesses of bygone ages, defying 
time, tempest and decay, Cheops, Shafra 
and Menkara. 

The largest of these giants of Gizeh, 
known as the great pyramid or pyramid of 
Cheops, covers an area of between 12 and 
13 acres. It rises to the height of 450 feet, 
whilst the length of the sides measures 764 
feet. The whole colossal structure is com- 
posed of red granite blocks, the lower ones 



> 

o 




CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS. 211 

four feet ten inches high, all taken from 
the quarries of Assuan and transported 
hither at the expense of countless human 
lives. The adjustment of these rocks in 
their proper place indicates a surprising 
degree of mechanical and architectural 
skill, and the co-operation of advanced 
engineers and skilled mechanics. The cour- 
ses of stone are laid one upon another in 
such a manner as to form steps up the outer 
slope, the size of the blocks determining 
the height of the steps. The spaces, how- 
ever, were originally filled in with closely 
packed stones and sand, the whole covered 
and smoothed over with cement. The tops 
of the pyramids were originally capped with 
gold plate and the smooth surfaces of their 
sides painted in various colors. While these 
great mausoleumns were in course of con- 
struction, a low passage way was kept open 
through which access to the central chamber 
was had. At the death of the monarch 
who planned this gigantic sepulchre for his 
last resting place, the last layers were 
finished, the body placed within, and the 
aperture hermetically sealed. Like all other 
Egyptian pyramids it has its four sides 
facing the cardinal points. 



212 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

The ascent of Cheops is rather a laborious 
and difficult untertaking, especially on a 
summer day, when the fiery rays of the 
desert sun help to make the exercise exhaust- 
ing. Puffing and blowing, two Arabs pul- 
ling and one pushing we finally gain the 
top. Oh, what a view! Surrounded by 
the pure invigorating air from the desert, 
we look down upon the wide expanse before 
us. Space and time alike extend their limits. 
From the height of fifty centuries we leap 
across the ages from Ramses' days to the 
twentieth century. Beneath us lie the other 
two giants, Shafra and Menkara, with smal- 
ler pyramids near their bases and others 
vaguely outlined against the far horizon. 
The Arabs below look like moving spots 
upon the sand, and their camels appear to be 
the size of dogs. To the east lies the Nile, the 
rich harvest land, intersected by irrigating 
ditches, and the city of Cairo with her forest 
of spires and minarets; to the west and 
south is the rolling, yellow white sea of the 
Libyan desert, with hard, gyrating winds 
moving pillars of sand from place to place. 
Only the forced and concentrated labor of a 
whole nation can explain the rearing of 



CAIRO AND THE PYKAMIDS. 213 

Cheops, Shafra and Menkara, the first of 
which represents the stupendous amount of 
eighty-two million, one hundred and eleven 
thousand cubit feet of solid masonry, and 
attains a height exceeded only by the Wash- 
ington monument in America and the spires 
of Cologne Cathedral in Europe. Herodotus, 
the ancient historian, states, that this 
monument took one hundred thousand men 
twenty years to build, while Pliny claims 
that the period of construction of the three 
great pyramids covers seventy-eight years. 
Notwithstanding the vastness and apparent 
indestructibility of the pyramids, their sides 
have been denuded of their outer casing, 
their interiors ransacked and vandalized, 
the sarcophagi sacreligiously despoiled of 
their contents, and their royal sleepers 
placed on exhibition to gratify profane 
curiosity and greedy commercialism in the 
museums of Cairo and of London. Over- 
whelmed with the weight which these monu- 
mental witnesses, piled upon us of the ages 
from those of Egyptian servitude under the 
Pharaohs to our own days of wireless tele- 
graphy and aerial navigation, we turned 
southward to where, excavated from the 



214 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

eternal sands of the desert stands the oldest 
sculpture known to history, a monstrous 
deity of colossal proportions combining 
the head of man with the body of a lion. 
It is the renowned Sphinx, chiseled from a 
.single monolith and thought to have been 
sculptured at least twenty-five hundred 
years before Christ. The Lybian sands 
have protected this priceless heritage from 
total annihilation. On the desert's bosom 
this presiding genius of the destinies of by- 
gone ages and peoples has securely rested, 
surviving the inroads of time, and the 
wanton destructiveness of vandal hordes, 
who have, however,disfigured by many muti- 
lations this, the fairest heir-loom of remote 
antiquity. The great figure, itself pyra- 
midal in general outline, is on the eastern 
edge of the desert, not far from the pyramids, 
and facing the Nile. The head measures 
twenty-eight and a half feet from top to 
chin, the total length of the body is one 
hundred and forty-six feet, across the 
shoulders it measures thirty feet and the 
paws are extended about fifty feet. Such is 
this '^Andro-Sphinx" or ''Man- Animal," ex- 
hibiting a union of the most lofty and strik- 



CAIEO AND THE PYRAMIDS. 215 

ing characteristics of the highest forms of 
organic hfe, thehon's body being the symbol 
of strength and prowess while the beautiful 
and expressive human face stands for beauty, 
nobility and intellectuality. Clement of 
Alexandria conceived that the fundamental 
idea embodied by the Egyptians in the 
Sphinx was the mercy of the deity towards 
the good and His wrath and vengeance to- 
wards the wicked. Reflecting thus we began 
to realize that this symbol of the Eternal, the 
Divine, the Immortal is an expression of 
faith and hope set up by the ancients in the 
midst of scenes of death and corruption, 
and, like Abdallif in the thirteenth century 
and Napoleon Bonaparte in the nineteenth 
and many another traveller before and since, 
we pause and do homage to the religious 
convictions of the Egyptians of four thou- 
sand years ago. 

Another important relic of past ages is 
situated not far from the Sphinx, and to this 
we now make our way. In 1853, Mariette, 
the explorer and scientist, discovered a 
vast temple buried in the sand, which is 
supposed to have been dedicated to the 
worship of the divinity of the Sphinx. We 



216 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

reached it with difficulty, as we had to climb 
over sand banks and huge masses of stones, 
but our exertions were well rewarded, for we 
beheld the oldest temple in the world, built 
in elementary forms of architecture by the 
early Egyptians. A narrow passage way 
leads into a spacious hall, seventy-five by 
twenty-one feet, in which six square columns, 
each a monolith of vast dimensions support 
the roof of solid granite blocks. Diverging 
from the middle of this hall is a second 
which is divided into three aisles by a double 
row of columns, and over which is another 
chamber. Enormous rose-granite and alab- 
aster blocks, whose surfaces are as smooth 
and highly polished as the glass of a mirror, 
form the material of which this temple is 
built. The construction of the walls shows 
amazing skill, the great polished blocks 
being so closely set one to another that the 
seams can scarcely be detected. One would 
say the whole must have been the work of 
giants and cyclops of superior knowledge 
and skill. What strange thoughts and 
emotions thrill the beholder as he stands 
here where forty-five hundred years ago 
worship and sacrifice were offered by a people 



CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS. 217 

and after tlie forms of a religion both long 
since extinct. 

By this time the sun had almost reached 
the zenith, and, from the burning sands, 
rise undulations of fiery heat warning all 
but natives to seek shelter; so, quite satis- 
fied with the results of our expedition, 
we started back toward Cairo, stopping on 
the way to see the renowned Museum of 
Grizeh permanently located, since 1890, in 
the palace of the former viceroy, Ismael 
Pasha. We spent several hours strolling 
leisurely through the thirty-six great halls 
and spacious apartments of this museum, 
all of which were filled with relics of the once 
virile race of ancient Egypt. We moved 
among statues, sarcophagi, mummies of 
kings, queens and princes, funeral barges, 
pottery, household goods, trinkets, jewels, 
diadems, rings, bracelets and so forth, all 
systematically catalogued according to age, 
dynasty and reign. There is no better school 
for investigation and research open to the 
student of Egyptology than this storehouse 
of the remains of remote antiquity. 

Many were the picturesque and novel 
sights which drew our attention and excited 



218 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

our curiosity on the drive to and from the 
pyramids. Bullocks and buffaloes turning 
water wheels to replenish the irrigating 
ditches, or sluggishly standing in ponds and 
streams, just their heads visible over the 
surface of the water ; fellah women making 
bricks on the muddy banks and drying them 
in the sun. Bedouins with free and lordly 
air fresh from the boundless desert, rocking 
upon their camels whilst the women bearing 
heavy burdens trudged behind ; fellahs cult- 
ivating the rich alluvial fields with rather 
primitive wooden implements, the apology 
for a plow often being drawn by a buffalo 
and a camel hitched to a cross beam, which 
separated them by about ten feet; long 
strings of laden animals wending their slow 
and measured way to the fruit and vegetable 
market, these were some of the scenes along 
the way. 

The agricultural laborer in Egypt, the 
cultivator of the soil, is the fellah. We 
adapt a description of this necessary element 
of the population from an article by the 
Eev. J. Lissner, an African Missionary. 

Revolutions, wars of dynasties, alternat- 
ing rule by his own or foreign kings, im- 



CAIEO AND THE PYEAMTDS. 219 

migrations and the other events of six 
thousand years have had no effect upon the 
real inhabitant of the country of the Nile, 
whose name is fellah, and who is practically 
the same today as he was under the Pharaohs. 
The name means, one who tills the soil, and 
so identified with the soil is the poor fellah 
that exteriorly he resembles the mud of the 
Nile. He is ever tilling and irrigating. His 
fore-fathers were down trodden, overworked 
and sadly oppressed by the Pharaohs, and 
the fellah of today has gained nothing by 
the last change of government. England 
governs Egypt for her own benefit, and the 
Kedive, Abbas II. , is quite under the control 
of the British plenipotentiary. Lord Cromer, 
who is often called the King of Egypt. The 
Khedive does nothing without consulting 
llim. The highest official and best paid 
functionaries are all English. The educated 
Egyptians all speak French fluently, and 
they really love France ; but they never pray 
today without reciting a litany of maledict- 
ions upon the English. Often encountering 
an Englishman, instead of a salutation they 
will say "D — n your father!" The sole 
wealth of Egypt is derived from her agricul- 



220 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

tnre, and to the fellah alone is committed 
the all-important task of tilling the soil, and 
for his pains he is rewarded every year with 
heavier taxes. He works fifteen hours a day 
at one cent an hour, and no one can deny 
that he is an industrious laborer, and that 
his work is more continuous than that of the 
peasants in northern countries. He enjoys 
no period of rest in winter, and all of his 
spare time is occupied in drawing water for 
the irrigation of the land. His lot is hard. 
In ancient times he was pressed into the ser- 
vice of the prince, and today his position is 
nearly the same, save that the name of his 
masters has been changed. The fellah owns 
very little of the land that was formerly 
his, and what he still holds is very heavily 
mortgaged, the crops being pledged one or 
two years in advance. Jews, Greeks and 
Armenians follow the tax collector. They 
are known as the usurers of the country. 
If a Grreek is as shrewd as thi^e Jews, and 
an Armenian a match for three Grreeks, it 
follows that one Armenian is equal to nine 
Jews. How can the poor, ignorant fellah 
escape? The tax collectors appear before 
the ripening of the principal crops. If the 



CAIEO AND THE PYKAMIDS. 221 

fellah has no money and refuses to pay, the 
officials order their men to flog him. If he 
does not yield a second flogging is adminst- 
ered. The usurers know this and they 
advance the sorely needed money at the rate 
of fifty per cent for six months. I have seen 
a poor fellah who had already pledged his 
crops, and had therefore no resource, receive 
such a beatiug that several of his bones were 
broken, and he was so sore that he could 
not move for days. The fellah is much more 
heavily taxed than the Irish peasant, but 
time will avenge his wrongs. When that 
proverbial traveller from New Zealand shall 
take his stand on a broken arch of London 
Bridge to sketch the ruins of St. Paul's, 
the poor fellaheen will still be found in the 
land of the Sphinx and may still smile iron- 
ically at the instability of the fate of man. 
Assyrians, Persians, Greeks and Eomans 
have in turn enslaved him for a while, but 
these conquerors have long since been lost 
in the dim vista of the ages, and when the 
modern oppressors shall have followed them, 
the fellaheen will still draw the fecundity of 
his race from the mysterious Nile. The 
fellaheen is remarkably docile, active and 



222 EUROPE, TH£ holy land ANi) EGYPt. 

intelligent, but lie is timid, and his good 
qualities are soon crushed out of him by his 
ceaseless task of filling the pitcher of the 
Danaides and its resultant poverty. He 
ploughs and reaps, toils and amasses, but he 
cannot with certainty regard his crops as his 
own, and his hard-earned piastre is too often 
wrested from him. His character is like that 
of a gifted child, who has been harshly 
used, and in whom, when he perceives the 
injustice, amiability and intelligence give 
place to suUenness and obstinacy. The 
fellah is no materialist. He is religious and 
can be considered the only one who observes 
strictly the rules of the Koran. In every 
little place there is a mosque, where he 
prays, but even in the fields, when the time 
for prayer comes, he kneels down, stretches 
his hands toward heaven, and invokes the 
name of the Lord. And when a stranger 
visits his little thatched dwelling, formed 
from the mud of the Nile, he offers him all 
he has, cigarettes, coffee, milk and the fruits 
of his farm. You cannot fail to notice that 
the ruffianism so common in civilized coun- 
tries is unknown in Egypt. Even the very 
poor and intirely uneducated among the 



J 






CAIEO AND THE PYRAMIDS. 223 

people often possess a native dignity, self- 
respect and grace of manner of which our 
own countrymen of a far more favored class 
are somtimes utterly destitute. 

There are many inducements which tempt 
one to prolong his stay in Cairo. There is 
the opportunity of obsQrving mohammedan 
customs, the graceful dress of the men and 
women, the inexhaustible historical interest, 
the mighty monuments, the mosques, the 
majestic river, the lofty swaying palm trees, 
the seductive charm of the lovely summer 
nights. But in spite of all these and many 
other attractions we were forced to continue 
our journey, and leaving this most cosmo- 
politan of cities, at twenty-five minutes of 
seven, we arrived at Alexandria that same 
evening at half past ten. We stopped at a 
much frequented old hostelry called theHotel 
Abbat, audit may be imagined that our rest 
that night was sweet and welcome after the 
fatigues of the day. Next morning we went 
for our mail which had been forwarded to 
this point, and then hired a carriage for a 
few hours drive through the principal parts 
of the city, for the same afternoon at four 
we were to embark on the Italian steamer, 



224 EUROPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

Enna, for Naples. The home news was 
good, in as much as we learned that, in spite 
of the continued drought, the chinchbugs 
and the Hessian flies, everyone was doing 
well. 

The city of Alexandria was named for 
Alexander the Grreat, who laid the foundat- 
ions of this great commercial metropolis in 
the year 332 b. c. On account of her healthy 
location, fine harbor and accessibility the 
city soon began to rival her maritime sisters, 
and at the same time she became a great 
centre of learning. Her priceless library 
was destroyed by the conquering Arabs in 
the seventh century. St., Marc the Evangelist 
suffered Martyrdom here, which shows at 
how early a period Christianity had spread 
to African soil. 

After dinner we made ready for the 
steamer. We had first to undergo the 
unpleasant ordeal of an examination by a 
staff of health officers, and to have our 
luggage disinfected, for we had come by the 
way of Zagazig, where Asiatic Cholera made 
its appearance. 

The doctors detecting no symptoms of 
infection in us, our fumigated baggage was 



CAIRO AND THE PYEAMIDS. 



225 



returned, and we received a certificate of 
health and of general inspection, and were 
permitted to go on board the Enna, a good 
vessel belonging to the Florio-Rubattino line 
of steamers of the ^'Navigazione Grenerale 
Italiana". The tickets for our passage to 
Naples, which were second class, cost one 
hundred and fifty-six francs each. 




ALEXANDRIA TO ITALY. 

And now the anchor chains rattled, the 
steam whistle shrieked, there was a hurry- 
ing hither and thither, a last command from 
the upraised hand of the captain, and off 
we swung up the bay and into the Mediter- 
ranean. Many people witnessed the departure 
of our boat, most of whom were there to bid 
farewell to friends sailing for Europe. 

The Enna, which was to be our home from 
Thursday, June twentieth, to Monday, June 
twenty-fourth, had a full list of cabin pas- 
sengers aboard, among whom were a large 
number furloughed army officers and sold- 
iers from Abyssinia. There were also some 
military prisoners who were to be court- 
martialed at Naples. They were handcuffed 
and had ball and chain at their ankles, and 
were lying on mattresses in the hold watched 
by a military guard. My heart went out to 
these poor men, who, probably on account of 
slight infractions of military discipline com- 
mitted far away from home in equatorial 
(226) 



ALEXANDRIA TO ITALY. 227 

Africa, were beiiig sent back to tlieir native 
land in shackles and chains. 

Then there were bird dealers with rare 
specimens of the fauna of interior Africa, 
merchants from Lnxor, engineers and rail- 
way contractors, and a Franciscan mission- 
ary who had escaped the massacres in China. 

The crew from the captain down, as well 
as all the passengers except ourselves, were 
Italians, and we found them uniformly 
pleasant and courteous. The first two days 
out we met with heavy- seas and strong 
winds, and when we came opposite the Isle 
of Crete or Candia, many succombed to 
sea sickness. Breakfast, dinner and supper 
were served on deck under an awning 
throughout the trip. As a rule, the sea air 
stimulates the appetite and makes one hail 
the meal hours, but the traveller on an 
Italian ship, unaccustomed to the native 
food and cookery, is not much to be envied. 
He finds the table wines too strong and 
heav}'', the bread like sailor's hard tack, 
the food too oily and the meats unpalatable. 
With what delight our fellow passengers 
daily greeted the maccaroni, olive oil and 
grated cheee ! To be candid, we envied their 



228 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

appetites, but pledged ourselves never again 
to travel on an Italian steamer. On Sunday 
afternoon, we came in sight of Mount Aetna 
and two hours later entered the harbor of 
Messina, on the Island of Sicily. 

While the steamer followed the outline of 
the mountainous but fertile coast of Calabria 
the scenery is beautiful. Vineyards and fig 
and olive gardens can be distinctly seen 
from the deck. At Melitto the people 
seemed to be having a grand fair or market. 
The railroad is plainly visible, and we 
watched trains entering and emerging from 
the tunnels. As the boat rounds Cape 
Spartivento, majestic Mount Aetna, ten 
thousand two hundred and fifty feet above 
the sea looms proudly into sight. Next we 
sighted Eeggio in Calabria and soon after are 
before Messina. This flourishing and hand- 
some city is the largest in Sicily with the 
exception of Palermo. It is ornamented by 
fine public buildings and master-pieces of 
sculpture, and seen from the sea it is truly 
picturesque. It has an extensive trade with 
Italy and the Levant, exporting silk, wines, 
oil, fruit and wool. It is well known to 
our American markets where its excellent 
oranges and lemons are in great demand. 



ALEXANDEIA TO ITALY. 229 

Our vessel had scarcely anchored, when 
she was boarded by health officers from the 
city, who at once began a thorough disin- 
fection of the passengers' belongings as well 
as a medical inspection of everyone on board, 
from the officers to the cabin boys and the 
stokers in the hold. All were summoned to 
appear on deck, and were there drawn up in 
line like soldiers on parade. In this fashion 
passengers and crew of the Euna stood on 
deck that afternoon to be examined by the 
chiefs of the Sanitary Commission of 
Messina. All soiled linen and underwear 
was thrown into a solution of carbolic acid. 
After all this we thought we would be per- 
mitted to visit the city, but we were mis- 
taken, for the boat swung to and drifted 
farther up the harbor to wait four hours for 
a ^'permesso" from the government at 
Rome before landing her cargo and pas- 
sengers. The epidemic of Asiatic Cholera 
had assumed such alarming proportions in 
Egypt that a quarantine against Egyptian 
ports had been ordered since our leaving 
Alexandria. Meantime great anxiety pre- 
vailed on board, for the possibility of being 
quarantined in a foreign country for from 



230 EUKOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

ten to fourteen days was a matter of rather 
serious aspect. Patiently we waited. Pedd- 
lers of fruit and native bards moved around 
our ship in little row boats, selling their 
luscious figs and oranges and singing to the 
accompaniment of the guitar and mandolin. 
A curly-headed little chap of nine summers, 
rendered the much admired '"Santa Lucia" 
in such sweet silvery tones, that he was 
generously applauded and from all sides 
coins dropped into his hat. 

At length a government boat was seen to 
approach with an official on board from 
whose gold lace and trappings it was evident 
that he was of superior rank. It was 
rumored that the captain not hearing from 
head-quarters within a reasonable length of 
time had despatched a telegram directly to 
the King, and that the royal reply was now 
come and was to the effect that in as much 
as the officers of the Sanitary Commission 
had detected no symptoms of plague, the 
Enna might proceed to discharge her pas- 
sengers. Grreat was the joy at this news 
which relieved us from the fear of detention 
in some desolate old barracks or island 
quarantine. The ship was not, however, 



ALEXANDEIA TO ITALY. 231 

permitted to approach the pier, and we had 
to land by means of lighters. A large 
number of Sicilian emigrants, all bound for 
America, came on board going to Genoa 
whence they would sail for New York. Their 
embarkation was an amusing scene. Such 
indescribable confusion, haste and self- 
assertion is seldom seen. 

At ten o'clock the Enna sailed for Naples. 
Entering the straits she steered cautiously 
between Scylla, on the coast of Calabria, 
and Charybdis on the Sicilian shore. This 
point has always been deemed dangerous by 
navigators, and many vessels endeavoring 
to avoid the formidable rocks of Scylla have 
fallen into the terrible whirl-pool of Charyb- 
dis. ■ Early next morning a break in the 
machinery caused a delay of several hours, 
but after its repair we made good time, pas- 
sing in the forenoon the Eunta della Campa- 
nella and the island of Capri. As the days 
are past when the Sirens by their songs 
fascinated the mariners sailing by their 
islands and lured them on to destruction, 
there was no need to lash the captain or the 
pilot to the mast in order to save the Enna 
from a dismal fate, therefore the precaution 
which Homer describes as being taking in 



232 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

the case of Ulysses was not adopted. Capri 
is jB.ve miles long and two miles wide. It 
lies at the entrance of the Gulf of Naples, 
and upon it are two mountains of limestone 
remarkable for their picturesque form. The 
valleys below them are well cultivated. Capri 
is especially noted for a singular cavern, 
the Grrotta Azurra, or Blue Grotto which is 
visited by most travellers. From Mount 
Vesuvius, rising ominously to our right, a 
thin, curling column of smoke was seen to 
ascend. Before us lay, panorama-like, 
imperial Naples. The city and gulf are 
among the most beautiful sights in the 
world, and is with justifiable pride that the 
Italian says, ''Vedi Napoli e poi mori", see 
Naples and die. 

At half past one we stepped once more on 
European soil and at once took a cab for 
the Continental Hotel where me met Ameri- 
cans from Ohio and Tennessee. To describe 
beautiful Naples would require more time 
than is left me, and, moreover, much has 
been written and spoken of late about the 
city as it has become a rendez-vous for 
American tourists. The next morning we 
went to Pompeii, the "silent city", at the 



ALEXANDKIA TO ITALY. 233 

foot of Mount Vesuvius, which was utterly 
destroyed by the eruption of that volcano 
on the fourth of August, in the year 79 b. c. 
when twenty thousand lives were lost. In 
the once populous streets of that lugubrious 
place the silence of the tomb has since 
reigned. No sound breaks the eternal still- 
ness of stricken Pompeii. For hours we 
wandered through forums, temples, houses, 
streets and alleys, all of which have been 
dug out from the lava bed under which they 
were hurried. We saw rooms, halls, stat- 
uary, fountains and gardens and involunt- 
arily asked ourselves '^ Where are the 
people?" Serious and thoughtful from the 
sights of this awe inspiring place of death 
we retraced our steps and sought once more 
the haunts of the living. 

That night we bid Naples good bye, part- 
ing at the same time from our pleasant 
travelling companion, the Baltimore physi- 
cian, and taking the fast train at eleven 
o'clock, reached Eome at seven in the morn- 
ing. We established ourselves at the Campo 
Santo, next to St. Peter's and the Vatican. 
In the course of our five days stay we visited 
the Vatican library and gardens, the Cata- 



234 EUEOPE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT. 

combs, the CoUiseumthe Forum and the Ma- 
mertiiie prison, St. Peter's, St. Paul's, the 
Lateran, Santa Croce and many other points. 
On the twenty-ninth of June, the feast of 
St. Peter and St. Paul, we assisted at mass 
at St. Peter's. On that occasion between 
forty and fifty thousand people were present. 
But having in a former volume, described 
the sights of Eome, I forego a repetition of 
the narrative. 

From Rome we hastened northward via 
Genoa and Milan to theAlps and Switzerland 
and then Freiburg and Miinster in Germany, 
where the remainder of our vacation was 
spent with friends and relatives. 

And now I take leave of the kind readers 
who have followed me on this interesting 
journey. If my narrative shall have ben- 
efited anyone be it ever so little, I shall feel 
myself compensated for the time and labor 
spent on these pages inspired by love and 
leisure. Vale! 




JUN 101903 



